Hi,
I'm a recovering Jaguar-holic. I've owned nine previous Jaguar and though I had kicked the habit, but a very nice looking 1997 XK8 drophead is for sale and I looked at it and drove it today.
It has high mileage, but seems to be running OK. I drove it quite a while on a day when the outside temperature was 79 degrees and the temperature gauge remained in the miuddle of the scale, even in stop-and-go traffic.
The two issues I noted are:
1. There is a "check coolant" message but the engine coolant is full. Can anyone tell me how involved replacing whatever sensor might be bad that would cause this?
2. There is a distinct clunk coming from the right front suspension when driving over a pothole. Is the A-frame bushing(s) a problem with XK8s? If so, how difficult is it to replace the bushing? What other possible causes are there?
Any response/opinions are appreciated.
I would like to consider making an offer to the seller, but would like an idea of the cost of fixing the two issues above first.
Thanks,
Jim

 

Jim,

You will find multiple posts in a search regarding all the issues you describe.

As far as the temp gauge is concerned, it is to say the least, useless. (My XK8 overheated with the needle never going over the middle!)

The source of the "Check Coolant" could be one of a few items as well. If the expansion tank stays full (cold check), it may be the float/sensor on the expansion tank itself.

The clunk sounds like a missing sway bar bushing. Easy to check, and if it is, it is about $9 and not too difficult to change.

The biggest concerns is more than likely old secondary tensioners and some other common items that can fail. Look in the sticky at the top 'XK8 & XKR 'HOW TO' / DIY Repair & Maintenance Links / Facts & Data,' there are two links related to buying a used XK8/XKR that will help. Also, check with an ODBII reader for any old codes.

Just my 2c. Now I will hand it over to the experts..

 

Jim,

Take careful note of the warnings in post #2 about the inaccuracy of the coolant temperature gauge and overheating.


1. Coolant level Sensor : clips into the bottom of the Expansion Tank. Regularly sticks but easily replaced. Sensors are available separately or included with a replacement Expansion Tank.

2. right front suspension : worn Upper Wishbone Bushes are a regular issue and an easy DIY replacement. I used to get around 25K miles out of a set on my XK8's. Some prefer to use Powerflex instead of OE at the expense of a slightly harsher ride.

Graham

 

The fact that the temperature gauge stays in at the mid-point is meaningless. The temperature gauges in these care are really idiot lights. Jag engineers designed them so that they go to the mid-point and stay there until it's too late and you engine overheats. Forum member WhiteXKR (TheJagWrangler - Home - About Us) has designed a mod called RealGuage that lets the gauges read the real temperature. The mod is not expensive, only a couple hundred dollars.


Mark

 

Thanks for the responses. I was not aware of the "temperature gauge as idiot light." And, it seems the clunking from the '97 convertible front may be fairly inexpensive to fix. But now the decision of buying the 1997 XK8 convertible has been complicated by a 1999 XK8 coupe coming available. It has fewer miles but has a salvage title due to a prior theft. I've owned an Allante that had a salvage title in it's past and the complication with that is with my car insurance: only liability is available. The coupe also has some peeling of the OEM chrome wheels which I understand, can cause tire leakage.
Those issues aside, is there a significant improvement from 1997 to 1999? Wouldn't both potentially have nikasil problems, plastic water pump impellers and plastic timing chain tensioners?
Any words of wisdom that can help tip the balance toward one over the other will be appreciated.

 

The big difference is the hydraulics for the top. All the other engine issues are similar. I just replaced my coolant tank with new sensor for $95 from SNG Barratt and took care of the low coolant light. The coolant pump, thermostat,hoses are not expensive. The tensioner upgrade is a necessity and the price will vary according to who does it. Price and convert vs coupe should be the deciding factor.......don't pay alot, check out edmunds.com for a reasonable price. I think the water pump issue was fixed by the 99 cars. I replaced mine, but it was fine and could have gone longer. None of that stuff is big bucks. You may have to re-rubber the front end eventually on both cars anyway; the bushings don't last forever. $1200 to do all of mine. It turns out I rarely put the top down in FL because the sun is too strong, the coupe would have worked for me.

 

Absolutely, do not disregard the warning regarding plastic tensioners, this is the greatest threat to destroying pre-2003 cars. As for the low coolant warning, as previously stated, it could be a number of relatively minor issues, but on my car, if the coolant level isn't right up to the base of the neck of the fill opening, it will register the low coolant warning. So, try filling it right up to the top. The Nikasil "problem" shouldn't be an issue at this date.

Buy the best car you can with the best documented service history, it will pay off in the end.

My 2002 XKR is approaching 150,000 miles and is running stronger than ever; don't be afraid.

 

Engines with the 3rd generation tensioners were manufactured after August of 2001. The engine for my 2002 XKR was manufactured in February of 2002; even so, I had me tensioners visually checked. The X100 style XK8/R is a great car but does have a few weaknesses, most of which were fixed by 2003. Earlier versions of the X100 have well documented weaknesses, which are easily identified and corrected with the help of this forum. Preventative measures, such as transmission fluid changes at 60k mile intervals and installation of RealGuage help us avoid potential damaging events. Altogether, these tools and practices mean that there is no reason that our X100 XK8/Rs should not be able to go several hundred thousand miles.


Mark

 

As I noted in my original post, I am or was a recovering Jaguar-holic. I just fell off the wagon big time. I am set to purchase a red 1999 XK8 coupe tomorrow. She has 77700 miles on the odometer, no OBDII codes and the body is in excellent condition. The interior is fairly good and virtually everything works. The not-so-good on this car: tires need to be replaced; chrome wheels are peeling (I will look into buying a set of non-chrome OEM wheels before I buy new tires. Tire Rack has Dunlops at a reasonable price.)
The seller had recently replaced the valve cover gaskets.
Besides ordering replacement wheels and new tires, I will check the TC tensioners to see if they have been replaced, then begin preventative maintenance items listed on the forum, like fluid changes, etc.
I got it for considerably less than KBB value, so I'm pleased with the transaction and simply ecstatic about the car.
She will be my tenth Jaguar. My first was a gorgeous 1955 XK140MC drophead coupe bought while a high school senior in 1963."Ruby" will likely be my last Jaguar and I plan to enjoy her as much as possible.
Thanks to you guys on the forum who helped me so far. I will undoubtedly need more advice and technical information going forward.
I will post pix ASAP!

 

preuss2, I have a set of very nice stock Jag XKR wheels that I'd be willing to give you a very good price on just to get them out of my garage. PM me if you're interested.

Mark

 

I think buying a car with a salvage title is a big mistake. You already know you can't insure it. What you don't know is why it was determined to be salvage in the first place. It surely wasn't because someone took a joyride in it.

When you try to sell it, you will find out that most buyers just aren't interested, no matter how you try to explain it to them.

I would never put my family in a salvaged car, and I wouldn't put your family in one either.

Brett

 

Best Cars,
Thanks for your concern.
As I noted, I bought the '99 XK8 coupe. It has what is know in Missouri as a "Prior Salvage" title. It was, as I mentioned in a previous post, a theft recovery.
In order to get a title for the car, a thorough inspection by the Missouri State Highway Patrol was required. In addition, I, also, did a very thorough inspection of the coupe. So, those two inspections tell me that it is not any more or less safe than one with a regular title.
As I also noted, I am aware of the insurance limitation, but given the low price I got her for, it is not a problem for me to not carry comprehensive insurance: liability is sufficient. I could probably part her out -- which I have not intention of doing -- and make money on her given the low price I paid.
I look forward to more interaction on this forum.
Again, thanks for your concern.
Jim

 

For many years I had a tenant who rebuilt salvaged cars and sold them. I was one of his best customers as I probably bought 5 or 6 during the years. First, I never had any unusual or unsafe happenings with them, and second, I never had a problem getting full insurance coverage on any of them with my Mercury agent. My closest friend bought a car for his daughter from my tenant, and never had a problem with either as well.

 

Not to denigrate the great state of Missouri, but I doubt their inspection is very thorough. In the states, we don't have anything close to the MOT inspections in the UK. The bottom line here is the bottom line: this car was sold cheap.

What really irritates me is that most of the taxis around here have salvage titles. It doesn't make sense to me that cars used for hire are not the safest possible. How are people to know this when they come out of the airport and grab a cab?

My liability insurance won't cover me if I sell a car with a salvage title. The insurance companies think this is a real issue, and so do I. I wouldn't want to go to court after a serious accident caused by a car with a salvage title and try to explain that there really wasn't anything wrong with it. For this reason, I won't even buy cars from the auction when they announce "structural damage." This usually only means that a quarter panel has been replaced, but I don't want the liability.

I think that once a car is issued a salvage title, it should be taken off the road for good. The rest of us should not be endangered by someone driving a car that is not the safest it can be.

Brett