One of the first things done was removal of the pulley.

The a/c line is what is blocking the wrench. I am not going to disconnect that for obvious reasons. I'll take a closer look at the trans cooler line.

I'm going to post some pics of where we are and what the problem is, including the wrench I bought and a crow's foot.

The small white tab points to the upper part of the pump where the HP line attaches below. Note the a/c line.

 

It would definitely be worth trying to remove the pump mounting bolts and see if you can then get your wrench on the high pressure line fitting and twist it loose. Are you sure the fitting is 1/2 inch and not 13 mm or 12 mm?

Cheers,

Don

 

That particular crows foot is just one I happened to have. It takes a 5/8" as I'm told. I was thinking the large nut might be 5/8", but the actual line nut should be much smaller. I haven't seen anyone say what that line nut is.

I'm thinking of removing the bolts....or just the lower bolt....and turning the pump slightly to get at the line fitting. I also have not read that anyone says they had to do that. Just trying to be careful with those fittings.

But even after getting the pump out...or even replacing the "O" ring seal on the end of the line....I cannot imagine what it will take to get that fitting threaded back into the pump.

 

We bought a set of "stubbies", including a 5/8" as was used by at least one member with success. Gary got a good grip on the nut but it won't budge. I tried a bit of penetrating oil, but so far it's not helping. The stubby gets past the a/c line, but not enough torque. Trying to be very careful as it is just an open end wrench. I don't see why this nut is so tight.

 

FINALLY!

My son placed a 1/2" X 36" round breaker bar against the a/c pulley and gave the 5/8" stubby a little push. The nut FINALLY broke loose. That's way over the top for normal maintenance.

We have been searching for an "O" ring seal. So far, not finding one on the line connection or up in the pump with a small pick. All the replacements I see for sale have an "O" ring at the end. So....hmmmmmmmmm.....I guess removal of the pump has once again become mandatory.

I would rather keep this original HP line with the 90 degree bend. The newer lines/fittings look even harder to line up and start threading in.

Anyway, "good" for now.

Ken

 

The parts diagram doesn't show an O-ring and I can't remember one. Many hydraulic line fittings work by compression rather than an O-ring, so maybe that's the case on your model year?




However, the 1999 Workshop Manual diagram does show an O-ring seal. It is possible the design was changed and your car did not have an O-ring. It is also possible that the O-ring is actaully a washer type seal made of aluminum or copper. Do you have a ring like that?



Cheers,

Don

 

Here's what further inspection shows us:
1- I didn't think there was an "O" ring at the top/end of the PS line. See pic below.
2- with a good light I could see a tiny "O" ring seal down inside the PUMP....waaay down in there.

I am including a pic of it, but it's a bit dim because the camera didn't want to flash. You can see the seal down in there. I'm not sure where it's supposed to be at the beginning, but it's jammed in there pretty tight now. I am going to extract it somehow so I can measure it and make sure I get a correct seal. I am surprised at how tiny it looks compared to the drawings of the line and seal.

One pic another member posted shows the seal at the end of the old PS line he removed (same "L" fitting at the end), but it looks like there's as small bit of tubing sticking through the "O" ring a little bit. From what I see down in the pump, that doesn't seem possible. The drawing looks like the seal is placed at the very top of the line I think.


Now as I look closer, and with the help of the camera, it appears there is an "O" ring seal near the end of the PS line tube. Soooo...are there TWO seals in this connection point? The one on the original line was expected, but that has to go into the pump quite aways to make a tight seal. If there is another seal, it looks like the hole is really decreased in size. Doesn't make sense to me. ??? Is there a self-closing seal and plunger inside the pump?

Ken

 

Hi Ken,

Personally, I would leave the seal that is up in the pump alone. It is probably part of the pump inner workings. Just be concerned with the seal on the line.

BTW, when you quote posts from others, it helps if you go into the quotation and delete photos and text that is not relevant to your response (as I have done to the quotation from your post above). Otherwise the thread becomes nearly twice as long as it could be with a little editing.

Cheers,

Don

 

OK. Thanks.

I would have preferred to stop reposting the pics but I didn't know how t remove them. Still not sure exactly how.

Ken

 

Click Quote on a post you'd like to quote, then in the new message window, put your cursor in the area of quoted text and photos. You can click on a photo to highlight it, then click Delete. You can delete text manually or highlight a section of text and then click Delete. When only the text you want in the quote remains, put your cursor below the quote area (after the html quotation end tag, [ /QUOTE ] (brackets intentionally separated from the tag so it doesn't mess up this message). Click to set your cursor below the quote, then type your new message, Preview your post to confirm it appears as you intend, then Submit Reply.

 

Thank you. I always hated re-posting all those huge pics.

You've been a huge help through all of this.

I'm wondering at this point how many owners replaced ONLY their bad pump without also replacing the HP line, the reservoir, the reservoir-to-pump line, or any of the rest of the system?? For me, the feed line from the reservoir was destroyed taking it off, so that's a no-brainer. I think I'll remove the reservoir and see it it can be back-flushed to make sure nothings in the filter. The HP line is another matter. I really don't want to have to get down under and pull that out, too.

One issue I see looming with replacing the HP line is the new shape and fitting on the newer lines. Do they match up with the old remanufactured pumps? Would a new line fit properly and seal to the NEW pumps being sold on Ebay.....from China. If I retain my original HP line, I plan to replace the little "O" ring seal, but is that seal available anywhere?

How about the proper flush and refill....leave that to a local shop? I have 3 kinds of fluid (all ATF), but not sure what's best.

Anyway, I don't want any more problems with the system, no matter how little I drive the car.

Ken

 

Hi Ken,

Replacing the HP line would be prudent, unless you are confident the old hose is not leaking. The O-ring seal is not shown in the Jaguar parts catalog, so Jaguar probably can't sell you one. If it's rubber, it's probably a standard size (probably metric). I keep a large variety of O-rings on hand that I purchased in several different metric assortments that vary by cross-section. If you have access to an industrial supply that makes hydraulic lines, etc., they may be able to match up the O-ring for you.

The Vehicle Specification booklet specifies that the correct power steering fluid is "Mobil ATF meeting Dexron 3 specification." Modern Mobil 1 ATF is a synthetic fluid that has the proper viscosity. A non-synthetic option is Valvoline Dex/Merc in the blue bottle (not the synthetic version in the red bottle - it's viscosity is too thin).

Cheers,

Don

 

I have a bottle of Mobil One Synthetic ATF, but it was opened and used (maybe a long time ago for the PAS). The proper top was not on it, so I think I'd better use it for something else (maybe as a flushing fluid) or toss it. I do have two other Dexron III quarts, but I notice at least one is DEXRON III "H". I think the series goes up to "G", which may or may not be DEX VI?. I found an old bottle of ACCEL ATF (non-synthetic?) that is good for DEX II and III. My most recent bottle is CHEVRON MD-3 DEXIII. All of these DEX III fluids warn about not using it in newer than 2005 GM or 2004 Ford transmissions. I have no idea how any of that applies to PAS. Of course, my (our) early 1997-2003-4 Jags wouldn't have had synthetic originally, right?

Ken

 

After Wayne and I completed the power steering hose Norma connector elimination repair job in February 2018 using the brass hose barb fix, I filled the reservoir back up with my quart bottle of plain ol' Super Tech Dexron III ATF from Walmart. That bottle had probably been sitting on my garage shelf for at least five years because I had also used it as power steering top-up fluid for my wife's previous 2004 Lexus RX330 SUV....

No problems at all with that bottle of ATF. I still have it - not quite 8 ounces left in it....

 

Probably, although it is possible that Mobil ATF was synthetic at that time. I really don't know.

You've gone to all this trouble, why not go buy a new bottle of Mobil 1 ATF or Valvoline Dex/Merc so you know you're putting fresh, uncontaminated fluid in the system? I think O'Reilly carries the Valvoline. NAPA probably does too (many of their oils and other fluids are made by Ashland Oil/Valvoline/Zerex).

Cheers,

Don

 

I've never had any problems with any Super Tech product, but switched to Mobil One when they came out with the Extended Life oils. It's not like Walmart actually makes any of those Super Tech fluids. If the Mobil One Synthetic I have left over had a tight cap on it I'd just add it, at least for a flushing. But it has a wad of paper towel stuck in the opening. :O

 

Always a good idea not to lose any bottlecaps of any fluids you intend to store on your garage shelves until the next time you need them....

 

I'll definitely use a goof clean fluid what I refill. Interestingly, as I was looking online at O'Reillys to order the pump, return hose, and PS line, I also looked at fluids. They had lots of Prestone "PS fluid". It was all non-synthetic and had no real info to make me feel confident in it. They showed two other brands, one of which I had never heard of. After looking at Rock Auto, Ebay, and O'Reillys, I decided to pay more for a pump with a lifetime warranty (at $70 more). When I tried to order it,I was told it was a "special order" that had to be approved up the chain and then might take 10-14 days or more IF they had one. He said that when this happens it usually means they don't have it or cannot get it through their "Master-something" brand.

I have had success with Rock Auto for many other parts,, but the added shipping and time is a PITA. Then,if you need to return something it costs you (ME).

So,I'm gonna try Carquest, NAPA, and Autozone today.

Ken

 

Do not use Power Steering fluid such as the product from Prestone. Some vehicles (e.g. some GMs) call for that, but your Jaguar should get a good Dexron III equivalent since that's what the seals were designed for. Mobil 1 ATF is a synthetic option. Another synthetic option is Redline Oil D4 ATF, which is also a great Dexron III equivalent. Valvoline Dex/Merc in the blue bottle is a conventional option.

 

Are the Jag specific vendors out of the running … ?

https://www.sngbarratt.com/us/

Z