Good advice. And, do NOT use the so-called "leak stop" sold by Lucas. I'm pretty sure that's what blew my seals out.

FYI on the purchase of R&R stuff: I finally bought the pump, ps hose, and return hose from Rock Auto. Eve with shipping it was cheaper, and the warranties are reasonable. With the core charge, shipping, and CA taxes it was approx. $286. I'll get most of the $50 core charge back if I return it. NAPA, O'Reilly's, Autozone, and CarQuest were all quite a bit more, and none of them actually had ANY of the components...or could say when they could get them. eBay was closer, but the "1 year" warranty on the pump was ridiculous. So, a word to the wise.

 

Yer not gonna believe it but the parts I ordered from Rock Auto yesterday......arrived this morning. YES! No, I did not pay for expedited shipping. I was amazed. They look good. I did inspect everything and took note that the "O" ring seal on the PS line is a nice fat green one. I think that's Nitrile? Viton?

Ken

 

Thank you for the source. While I appreciate a place where I could buy genuine Jaguar parts, the prices were exorbitant. What I bought from Rock Auto for $286 (- the pump core), was almost $1200 for the 3 items. The pump alone was $977. But....good source for lots of jaguar stuff.

 

Green O-rings can be Viton, but can also be NBR or HSN/HNBR. Viton O-rings are often brown, but can be black, white, yellow or green (or any other color, technically).

In automotive systems, green O-rings are most often used in the air conditioning plumbing.

 

I am going to post a pic of each (old and new) hose connection fitting and "O" ring. The difference in the thickness of the seal seems evident at first, but when I got my camera down at a better angle, it doesn't seem so much. We all know replacing seals is a good idea when changing these components...but that's a lot easier than said. That said, this is good reference for members who are looking at the same issue.




This one is a better angle. I don't know how to delete the first "old" photo.

And, I'll need some expert advice on replacing the original PS line with the new style one....routing, especially.

 

After looking very closely at both hoses and "O" rings, we (my son) decided to just stay with the old HP hose and reattach it. So, we buttoned everything up and put some new fluid in and started her up. A short little squawk, and then nice smooth operation. I suspect that even though the pump should have had fluid in it, that's what I heard. So, we ran it, turned gently post to post, rechecked and topped up the fluid,and then let it run until hot and did a few more post to post wheel turns.

No leaks! Everything seems to be good. But I'll still take it to the shop for a proper flush and refill with all new fluid.

So far, so good. The job is a major PITA because everything is a nightmare to reach. The key is that 5/8" stubby open end wrench and a little added muscle/leverage if needed. I hope some of those pics help some unlucky owner in the future. Thest6eel band clamps on the fill (low pressure) hose are a bitch to get off without a proper clamp R&R tool. Get one first!

BTW: I was surprised at how minimal the torque requirements are on all those steel-to-steel bolts and fittings. I would have expected more, so I caution everyone to use a proper torque wrench to tighten them back up after installation. Most are between 8 and 24 Nm. The HP hose fitting is 22-28 Nm.

Ken