Beav described it pretty well, w/o showing how or why, a certain 'EQ' curve has been built into the jaguar head unit, you're getting that no matter what you put downstream...so a little brightening up using the crossover adjustments and help from your ipod app will certainly help.

4x75 would be PLENTY for those front components...in fact, I'd use the first two channels for the L and R fronts, then bridge the rear for your new subs in back...be sure you find an amplifier that will allow you to do this.

BTW, my crossovers are actually under the rear seat cushion, easy to get to...two screws under the front lip, and it lifts right out. My installer figured this was a good spot for general access coming back from the boot towards the front ...and keeping them protected (i.e. not in the doors)

 

I thought of doing 1 channel for the polk midwoofer + tweeter, one for a mid or small fullrange (the factory one or a new one), and use the fifth 350W RMS at 4 ohm sub channel for the two kickers wired in parallel, using the amp's crossover

$350 and it'd be all I need, right?

 

personal preference on the make of amplifier, but 75 W to all speakers will be plenty, including the rear subs...after all, they're not exactly monsters.

 

The amplifier manual states that the speakers should be MORE than 75W RMS to use it, any truth to that?

Otherwise it seems like a steal for that price

 

Somehow I missed that info, can you steer me to it?

 

The stock Headunit is actually very good and has balanced speaker outputs which are very usefull if you want to connect it to an aftermarket amplifier.
There is no built in EQ to satisfy the stock speakers and it gives you the full audible frequency range. I'll soon do a DB test to prove this.

Don't use a LOC (line out converter) with built in transformers as you will then loose the full spectrum /frequencies.
For each channel use resistors, 11 Ohm for + and - and 5 ohms between + and - and then go to the line input of your amplifier.
Verify that there is NO common ground on the inputs.
My JBL amp is OK and accepts balanced signal.

Balanced signal is way better as it doesn't pick up alternator whining or other signals.

So if there are people who are tell you that they don't get any bass with the stock headunit, they likely used a LOC with transformers inside

 

PO had installed LOCs, along with a couple pounds of other assorted rubbish. They were the first items to be pitched.

I was more interested in X100's statement, "...switch on the headunit that puts a full range line level output into the factory amp...". My unit is the 'standard' level unit. I suspect the empty round white connector on the head unit provides line level outputs to the factory amp. As the OE premium package has sub outputs I can now see that the head unit must be capable of full range, just not through the 'standard' level connector (IC10.) That would explain my dilemma. Unfortunately JTIS does not provide a connector pin-out for IC14 (at least I haven't been able to find it.) If anyone could provide that I'd certainly appreciate it. Next, I would like to know what 'switch' X100 was referring to as my unit has no external switches that I can see - is there an internal switch, or?

 

Take a look at this thread of the Kicker amp install that I did.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...m-4-ohm-41280/
It was simple and works well.The subs need the amp, the factory amp will be more then enough to drive the DBs and tweeters. By the way, I think the DBs are great for factory replacements.
Looks like you have checked out different ways of improving your system, Nice work.

 

It's not easy info to find. I looked in all the Jaguar tech. guides and can't find it mentioned again.
The only link i found which mentions it is here
Overview
allthough i've heard it mentioned before, i've never had ocasion to inspect the head unit to find it's location. Maybe there's a small opening to insert something to flip the switch.

 

I'm leaning towards bypassing the head unit completely, and using the 1200W 5ch Kenwood XR-5S to power ALL my speakers, volume control will be done on the iphone(dock), and/or I could install a pot on the line out.

This is cheap at $350 and should have enough oomph to power everything, any objections?

 

It will work, but I think that you are not giving the factory head and amp a chance.You will lose the ability to control fade and balance as well as bass and treble from the head and steering wheel.

I also found that the unit could drive another set of full range speakers in the rear, it is in the premium unit and it is used on the coupe.I took a set of 3.5" speakers and mounted them above the subwoofers and used the circuit used for the rear speakers on the coupe.Plus you can control them with your f-r fader as well as balance.

When I put the Polk Tweeter in the dash I left the factory tweeters in the door and the DBs in the door the unit sounded good but I wanted more bass out the subs,the factory amp clipped that circuit so it is just letting thru the low Hz.Plus when I put in the 4 ohm subs I felt I needed more power to get the full impact. So I added the Kicker amp to the subs and got the balance I was looking for.

If you are going down the path with that amp,I would do what H2O did and add a new head and amp and modify the dash to hold a new head which give you all the new adds such as ipod, bluetooth, etc.

The factory head and amp are good units, it was the speakers that needed upgrading.Once I got everything installed,I loved my factory Alpine head and amp.

 

Well, I can configure crossovers and gains on the amp, and the iphone has a very nice graphical eq app. The only thing that'd be nice is to hook up the head unit's volume control to the line output somehow. This is the setup i'm envisioning:

Source
Iphone 3GS digital out through dock to Pure I-20 (has a really nice DAC), line out level will be controlled to adjust volume. Double shielded RCAs will go to the back.

AMP
2x75W for Polk DB6501 w/polk crossover, tweeter in pillar and midwoofer in door.
2x75W for Dash mids (might want to replace them with something better)
1x350W for 2xKicker 6.5" subs in the back parallel coupled (making them 2 ohm)

The polks will receive full range, I'll filter away the low range from the mids on the amp, and the kickers will get low range only. I'll adjust gains and eq to make them play nice together.

 

If that is what you want DO IT!!

 

Well, I'm just asking if it makes sense to do it this way!

 

IMHO there is no right answer to your question, it is your project and you have received advice from members that have done different mods to update the factory system. Now get it done and enjoy your results.

Good luck with your project!

 

I decided to get an Alpine CD105 headunit (60 bucks like new) and the alpine signal processor + mic, to get that Audessey action going. Came in at $250 total. The headunit should also be able to serve as an active filter

Got some Dayton RS75-4 3" midranges to go in the dash, just for fun.

 

Post some pictures of the RS75-4 when you get them mounted in the dash.

 

5 channel amp $380
Refurbed alpine headunit $70
Alpine audessey signal proc + mic $180
Polk DB6501 $100
RS75 3" fullranges $50
Kicker subs $120
Wires $50
Pure I20 dock $140 (optional, but should have a better dac than the headunit)
Custom iphone jaguar dock $120

Total: $1210. Will post photos

 

Would you please PM me on how to do this? Will keep me from buying an aftermarket head unit.

 

in the overview...what size are all the components, speakers and sub? want to replace all plus add a better amp.