Pressure Reduction Kit for XK8/R Convertibles
#1
Pressure Reduction Kit for XK8/R Convertibles
Hi Everyone,
I've been attempting to determine if the pressure reduction kit created by an Online member here is still available for purchase. It was from jag repair. I e-mailed, but haven't heard a response. I also called a number found through another site, but they stopped stocking them. Any advice/suggestions? I'm really eager to get this installed.
Thanks!
I've been attempting to determine if the pressure reduction kit created by an Online member here is still available for purchase. It was from jag repair. I e-mailed, but haven't heard a response. I also called a number found through another site, but they stopped stocking them. Any advice/suggestions? I'm really eager to get this installed.
Thanks!
#2
#4
Here is a link to the mods: http://www.scorekeeper.com/jaguar/jaguar01.htm
The installation video shows the kit but you don't really need a kit just the resistor , bit of wire and some spade connectors. You can order the resistor here: Chassis Mounted Aluminum Shell 100W Watt 0.2 Ohm Wirewound Resistor | eBay
Steve
The installation video shows the kit but you don't really need a kit just the resistor , bit of wire and some spade connectors. You can order the resistor here: Chassis Mounted Aluminum Shell 100W Watt 0.2 Ohm Wirewound Resistor | eBay
Steve
#5
Here is a link to the mods: http://www.scorekeeper.com/jaguar/jaguar01.htm
The installation video shows the kit but you don't really need a kit just the resistor , bit of wire and some spade connectors. You can order the resistor here: Chassis Mounted Aluminum Shell 100W Watt 0.2 Ohm Wirewound Resistor | eBay
Steve
The installation video shows the kit but you don't really need a kit just the resistor , bit of wire and some spade connectors. You can order the resistor here: Chassis Mounted Aluminum Shell 100W Watt 0.2 Ohm Wirewound Resistor | eBay
Steve
Last edited by Dennis07; 04-27-2014 at 08:08 AM. Reason: clarity
#6
Adding the resistor is as simple as that . . . you just add the resistor in the wiring connection to the pump. Sam's 'kit' added male/female connectors that permitted installation without cutting any Jaguar wires. It doesn't matter which wire the resistor is installed in as the B+/ground is swapped during pump operation.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ressure-53086/
I initially used Radio Shack spade connectors but the proper connectors are available here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e9/#post329037
I added 1" diameter heat shrink tubing around the resistor more as a heat alarm than insulation. It shrinks at 170 degrees (F) and has not. That would seem to indicate that mounting the resistor to the frame as a heat sink is not required.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ressure-53086/
I initially used Radio Shack spade connectors but the proper connectors are available here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e9/#post329037
I added 1" diameter heat shrink tubing around the resistor more as a heat alarm than insulation. It shrinks at 170 degrees (F) and has not. That would seem to indicate that mounting the resistor to the frame as a heat sink is not required.
Last edited by test point; 04-27-2014 at 12:44 PM.
#7
Cheap as chips and it works a treat
Completed my install this evening and all working perfectly.
As suggested I tested with engine off and all was fine first time. Really slows down the opening and closing time so you can appreciate how it must take the pressure off the hoses. Had a little moment when the latch didn't go down but just needed a few more seconds.
I only did a single cycle to check operation - the resistor certainly got warm.
Really simple as said before - 100 Watt 0.2 ohm resistor with heat sink £3 from ebay. I had some heat resistant to 90 degrees centigrade earth wire left over from a HiFi project (needs to be a heavy cable to take the load) and found 4 spade connectors in the shed. Heat shrink the connections and tape up the spades where they go into the black connector block to prevent them touching as there is not much room in there. I also used some thermal conductive paste on the underside of the resistor and then self tap screw onto the top of the CD/Nav cradle to get a firm interface to help with the heat transfer.
My setup isn't as neat as those with the bespoke connectors but all the wiring is tidy and out of sight. However, now I have it all up and running I will probably shorten the cable lengths and get some better quality insulated spade connectors and do away with the insulation tape to tidy it up.
EDIT - Now tidied up the wiring - looks better. A small point to watch out for - with the shorter wires and with the resistor mounted on the rack need to be careful the wires don't get bent back/break when the boot liner is refitted as it can snag.
While the soldering iron was out I took the opportunity to run extra earth wires from the rear light earth rails to the mounting bolts as described elsewhere. I'd never had an issue with lights or melted wires but better safe than sorry.
Steve
As suggested I tested with engine off and all was fine first time. Really slows down the opening and closing time so you can appreciate how it must take the pressure off the hoses. Had a little moment when the latch didn't go down but just needed a few more seconds.
I only did a single cycle to check operation - the resistor certainly got warm.
Really simple as said before - 100 Watt 0.2 ohm resistor with heat sink £3 from ebay. I had some heat resistant to 90 degrees centigrade earth wire left over from a HiFi project (needs to be a heavy cable to take the load) and found 4 spade connectors in the shed. Heat shrink the connections and tape up the spades where they go into the black connector block to prevent them touching as there is not much room in there. I also used some thermal conductive paste on the underside of the resistor and then self tap screw onto the top of the CD/Nav cradle to get a firm interface to help with the heat transfer.
My setup isn't as neat as those with the bespoke connectors but all the wiring is tidy and out of sight. However, now I have it all up and running I will probably shorten the cable lengths and get some better quality insulated spade connectors and do away with the insulation tape to tidy it up.
EDIT - Now tidied up the wiring - looks better. A small point to watch out for - with the shorter wires and with the resistor mounted on the rack need to be careful the wires don't get bent back/break when the boot liner is refitted as it can snag.
While the soldering iron was out I took the opportunity to run extra earth wires from the rear light earth rails to the mounting bolts as described elsewhere. I'd never had an issue with lights or melted wires but better safe than sorry.
Steve
Last edited by worrasf; 04-30-2014 at 01:08 PM.
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#8
I'm still wondering if there are far fewer green shower failures in the UK vs. the US due to a more moderate summer climate and therefore not nearly as much sun-baked damage to the hydraulic hoses and seals....
And yes, I know that there are considerably fewer ragtops in the UK vs. the US....
And yes, I know that there are considerably fewer ragtops in the UK vs. the US....
#9
I'm still wondering if there are far fewer green shower failures in the UK vs. the US due to a more moderate summer climate and therefore not nearly as much sun-baked damage to the hydraulic hoses and seals....
And yes, I know that there are considerably fewer ragtops in the UK vs. the US....
And yes, I know that there are considerably fewer ragtops in the UK vs. the US....
What's different? The environment: heat and maybe mechanical stress occurring at installation. If it were primarily the latter one, they would see as much of it in the UK as we do here. I think heat is the biggest enemy.
#10
Yall need to look at this. The top lines are flawed from the factory.
Convertible Top Hydraulic Hose Assembly Jaguar XK8 XKR 1997 2006 HJB8256AB | eBay
Convertible Top Hydraulic Hose Assembly Jaguar XK8 XKR 1997 2006 HJB8256AB | eBay
#11
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#13
Heat and pressure are both factors in the hose failures and failures have been identified in the trunk area but not as frequent. The one main contributing factor in the failures is that the hose installed for this application by Jaguar were under rated with the exception of a few earlier 97xk8 that were fitted with a higher rated hose.
As for replacement hoses I only know of two that I can say meet the needs and they are both on my page Top Hydraulics and the other is from Colliflower. FYI - I make no money on any of them! I know nothing about the other hoses except that they are using my name and were using my photos.
When attempting to lower the roof make sure not to force it open by hand. Now when replacing the hoses you will need to refill the fluid up to the top line then operate the roof and check the level again. This system is self purging!
As for replacement hoses I only know of two that I can say meet the needs and they are both on my page Top Hydraulics and the other is from Colliflower. FYI - I make no money on any of them! I know nothing about the other hoses except that they are using my name and were using my photos.
When attempting to lower the roof make sure not to force it open by hand. Now when replacing the hoses you will need to refill the fluid up to the top line then operate the roof and check the level again. This system is self purging!
The following users liked this post:
reb1999 (05-03-2014)
#14
Fortunately I have not experienced a hose failure and hopefully having fitted the voltage reducing mod (and being in the temperate UK) I will be OK but it struck me that if it's the connectors/joint that fails as opposed to the hose is it not possible to splice in a new uprated connector to the existing hose with a joining section rather than replace the entire hose?
#15
#16
#17
Their repair kit involved making a splice within the windshield pillar, if I remember right. The MTTF on these was about 3 days. (OK, probably more like a year or so, but not good.)
I think you've got a good shot at your hoses surviving now. This is only one data point, but I just parted company with an '01, 95k miles, still running its original hoses.
People here have started to think about heat but if you go back, say, a year or more, the posts concerning the hoses seldom mentioned it. I think if someone were to come up with a way to cool things down around the latch, it could be as important in reducing failure rates as what's been done about hydraulic pressure.
I think you've got a good shot at your hoses surviving now. This is only one data point, but I just parted company with an '01, 95k miles, still running its original hoses.
People here have started to think about heat but if you go back, say, a year or more, the posts concerning the hoses seldom mentioned it. I think if someone were to come up with a way to cool things down around the latch, it could be as important in reducing failure rates as what's been done about hydraulic pressure.
Last edited by Dennis07; 05-01-2014 at 06:00 AM.
#18
#19
Their repair kit involved making a splice within the windshield pillar, if I remember right. The MTTF on these was about 3 days. (OK, probably more like a year or so, but not good.)
I think you've got a good shot at your hoses surviving now. This is only one data point, but I just parted company with an '01, 95k miles, still running its original hoses.
People here have started to think about heat but if you go back, say, a year or more, the posts concerning the hoses seldom mentioned it. I think if someone were to come up with a way to cool things down around the latch, it could be as important in reducing failure rates as what's been done about hydraulic pressure.
I think you've got a good shot at your hoses surviving now. This is only one data point, but I just parted company with an '01, 95k miles, still running its original hoses.
People here have started to think about heat but if you go back, say, a year or more, the posts concerning the hoses seldom mentioned it. I think if someone were to come up with a way to cool things down around the latch, it could be as important in reducing failure rates as what's been done about hydraulic pressure.
#20
This is the repair connector that was a failure from the onset.
Link http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...Connectors.pdf
Link http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...structions.jpg
As for the locations of failures no one has taken the time to do an inventory. A thread was started to identify MY on this forum but not sure it is accurate.
Link http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...Connectors.pdf
Link http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...structions.jpg
As for the locations of failures no one has taken the time to do an inventory. A thread was started to identify MY on this forum but not sure it is accurate.