problem removing upper wishbone pivot bolt
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Does the bolt rotate?
There are a few ways it can get stuck. The washers can get stuck to it (in which case the bolt should rotate) or worse case, it can get stuck to the frame (in which case the bolt won't rotate)
It shouldn't be long before RD comes on hear and tells you to cut the bolt
There are a few ways it can get stuck. The washers can get stuck to it (in which case the bolt should rotate) or worse case, it can get stuck to the frame (in which case the bolt won't rotate)
It shouldn't be long before RD comes on hear and tells you to cut the bolt
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Jag1968 (04-12-2017)
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Don't know if you cut it yet, some other ideas to knock it out.
1) don't let the washer walk into the brake lines holder protruding. Keep pushing it back as you go.
2) I hope you have not released the lower shock bolt yet leave it there. When lose, wishbone takes all weight.
3) I've used sledge hammer on end of bolt, slide it into contact.
4) has it moved at all? If no, suspect the washer corroded onto bolt shaft. Douse it in wd40.
5) spray wd40 along all exposed bolt areas it will pay off.
6) I can't think of a more effective way to move it than wacking the bolt end - till it disappears in the bush. Now, either use a 3/8 inch 2 inch wratchet extension to push the end, otherwise take a big solid open end wrench place it under the bolt head. Use your sledge hammer to hit this wrench up by the head. Transfers energy into bolt head to slide it out.
Btw - once you cover it in wd40, spin it with your impact wrench. Will distribute solution entry and slip characteristics into and under washers.
I've seen some tough ones, never saw one that will spin but can't be moved with hammer impact. Good luck.
John
1) don't let the washer walk into the brake lines holder protruding. Keep pushing it back as you go.
2) I hope you have not released the lower shock bolt yet leave it there. When lose, wishbone takes all weight.
3) I've used sledge hammer on end of bolt, slide it into contact.
4) has it moved at all? If no, suspect the washer corroded onto bolt shaft. Douse it in wd40.
5) spray wd40 along all exposed bolt areas it will pay off.
6) I can't think of a more effective way to move it than wacking the bolt end - till it disappears in the bush. Now, either use a 3/8 inch 2 inch wratchet extension to push the end, otherwise take a big solid open end wrench place it under the bolt head. Use your sledge hammer to hit this wrench up by the head. Transfers energy into bolt head to slide it out.
Btw - once you cover it in wd40, spin it with your impact wrench. Will distribute solution entry and slip characteristics into and under washers.
I've seen some tough ones, never saw one that will spin but can't be moved with hammer impact. Good luck.
John
Last edited by Johnken; 04-12-2017 at 05:07 PM.
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#9
If the nut came off, use a large flat screw driver to pry the nut side of the bushing off out of the wishbone.
The upper bushing are an assembly of pieces and you want to see if the nut side bushing sleeve can slide off the bolt. With the nut slide bushing flange pried off, you can also see if you can spray lubricant between the sleeve and the bolt.
If you can get the nut side bushing sleeve loose, you'll only need to cut the bolt on the bolt head side, instead of both.
The upper bushing are an assembly of pieces and you want to see if the nut side bushing sleeve can slide off the bolt. With the nut slide bushing flange pried off, you can also see if you can spray lubricant between the sleeve and the bolt.
If you can get the nut side bushing sleeve loose, you'll only need to cut the bolt on the bolt head side, instead of both.
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Jag1968 (04-13-2017)
#10
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This is usually caused by the bolt rotating in the subframe once the bush assembly seizes onto it as Ungn says. The design is that the bolt should pinch the bush inner bearing onto the subframe and not move.
You'll need to check the ovality of the holes in the subframe once you get the bolts out. If you're not getting any undue noises at the moment you may be OK, but if the wear is significant then it must be addressed.
I'm sure one of the gurus will advise with what is acceptable.
Good luck - hope it's not too painful. Use lots of anti-seize on the pivot bolt when you do the rebuild
HTH,
Mike
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Jag1968 (04-13-2017)
#13
It rotates - you've got off lightly.
BUT - take careful note of the placement of the shims. You want to rebuild with them in the same locations.
Graham
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Jag1968 (04-13-2017)
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Jag1968 (04-14-2017)
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hl jack l managed to cut threw bolt on the thread end lnside the wish bone rotating bolt
after each cut that allowed me to nock bolt towards the front of the car it came to a stop
drawing it back slightly l noticed some burs on the shaft of the bolt of to b&q picked up
a set of grinding bits that go in a drill like using a dremmal ground of burs and it slipped straight out
after each cut that allowed me to nock bolt towards the front of the car it came to a stop
drawing it back slightly l noticed some burs on the shaft of the bolt of to b&q picked up
a set of grinding bits that go in a drill like using a dremmal ground of burs and it slipped straight out