Trying to ensure the VVT is fully retarded and set after replacing the the timing chain tensioners, and I can't for the life of me find a real tool that works. I bought the cheap 8milelake kit off Amazon/Ebay, after hearing the VVT was worthless but for $30 the cam locks and exhaust sprocket tool were worth the price. Confirmed it did not fit.

Ordered a "different looking one" from one of the "reputable suppliers" and received the exact same chromium looking one that doesn't fit in the VVT recess to even get CLOSE to the pins. Even though I've seen individuals claim they have filed down the "socket" to where the pins break off etc, this kinda defeats the purpose of the tool.

Has anyone purchased a VVT tool that actually works and is sturdy out of the box?

 

Update: After searching the forums extensively, I read quite a few posts regarding not needing to retard or wind back the VVT as it supposedly is set in full counterclockwise position when at idle.

This was not the case for my XK8. I wanted to make sure anyone changing chains/tensioners checks their VVT appropriately.

The manual clearly states to wind it back for a reason, and I think it may have saved some potential heart ache later. I used a pair of needlenose pliers in the pin holes and it required some good force, my VVT finally did move back counterclockwise. Not sure how much this equated to but it had to be a degree or two.

Winding back the VVT counterclockwise with sharp needle-nose pliers.

I can see how these cheap special tools break their pins off as it took a good amount of force to get the VVT to move back. The pliers were flexing pretty good. I plan on trying to hold it stationary angled down as I lock down the VVT bolt. If not I'll use some coat hanger or two smaller Allen keys to make sure it doesn't "walk" or move when torquing the bolt.

 

I just lock the crank in timing position (45 degrees ATDC), snug the intake cam VVT bolt to about 20 lbf⋅ft.
Then just using pliers, turn the camshaft fully retarded and hold with pliers.
Loosen the VVT bolt and put the cams in timing position.

Tighten the intake cam bolt as per TSB 303-32. (all but AJ26)

 

Thanks @motorcarman ,

I should have mentioned I have the timing kit installed on the cams and the crank setting tool installed in the flexplate. This should be sufficient right? I am following the manual so it said to torque down the exhaust cam first, then retard the VVT, then lock down the VVT/Intake cam.

 

The engine course 168 torque specs are WRONG for the intake cam with the hollow bolt. The AJ26 uses the same bolt for intake and exhaust sprockets.

The Continuously Variable Timing AJ27, AJ28, AJ34 etc. uses a hollow bolt with a reduced torque. (see TSB 303-32)

 

Wow, great TSB reference @motorcarman , thank you! I'll make sure to apply the proper torque values to the AJ27!!

 

I had trouble with the VVT tool that I bought. I ended up filing the pins on the tool to get them to engage the VVT.
There is another option. A heavy wire coat hanger can be cut as this fits into the VVT holes. Then just drill a couple holes in anything that will fit into the VVT to hold the wires and torque to 30 ft lbs, then final torque without the tool in place.
After I broke the pins off the VVT tool, I drilled the tool where the pins were and slid coat hanger wires into the drilled holes, leaving some exposed to replicate the pins. Worked good. You need a drill press for this.

 

I have completed replacing tensioners and guides on my 2000 coupe, job turned out great. Before attempting the job I read everything I could find on this procedure. Regarding tightening the exhaust and VVT sprockets, I found a couple of different ways to take slack out of the primary and secondary chains. I had the same problem with the tool for the VVT sprocket as reported above. I ended up just using the secondary chain tensioning tool on the exhaust sprocket. That tool is very substantial and when using it on the exhaust sprocket I was able to take up tension on both primary and secondary chains pulling it counter clockwise while I tightened each sprocket, the drive side of the chains remained taught. Not sure I see the need to use the VVT sprocket tool before pulling the exhaust sprocket tight.
Maybe someone can clear that up for anyone doing this job in the future, but mine came out OK.