Pros-cons of radiator stop leak - resolved
#21
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Thanks ALL!!!! The trans cooler didn't seem like a big deal but the procedure said to depressurize the A/C as well as disconnecting receiver/dryer and the condenser
Radiator Vehicles Without: Supercharger 26.40.01 Removal
1. Open the driver's door, or both doors if necessary, to allow the side windows to drop. Ensure that the doors remain open until after the battery has been disconnected
2. Open the engine compartment and fit paintwork protection sheets.
3. Disconnect the battery ground cable. Remove the battery cover.
4. Drain the coolant from the radiator.
5. Depressurise the climate control system. Refer to Operation <<82.30.30>>. Observe all safety warnings and precautions stated in that section
6. Remove the air cleaner assembly; refer to Operation 19.10.05.
And............
15. Disconnect the pipe from the climate control receiver / drier.
16. Disconnect the pipe from the climate control condenser joint (condenser to compressor).
If I can't find a local repair place and can get away with just disconnecting the trans cooler then it shouldn't be all too difficult and I will try myself
Radiator Vehicles Without: Supercharger 26.40.01 Removal
1. Open the driver's door, or both doors if necessary, to allow the side windows to drop. Ensure that the doors remain open until after the battery has been disconnected
2. Open the engine compartment and fit paintwork protection sheets.
3. Disconnect the battery ground cable. Remove the battery cover.
4. Drain the coolant from the radiator.
5. Depressurise the climate control system. Refer to Operation <<82.30.30>>. Observe all safety warnings and precautions stated in that section
6. Remove the air cleaner assembly; refer to Operation 19.10.05.
And............
15. Disconnect the pipe from the climate control receiver / drier.
16. Disconnect the pipe from the climate control condenser joint (condenser to compressor).
If I can't find a local repair place and can get away with just disconnecting the trans cooler then it shouldn't be all too difficult and I will try myself
#22
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I had some temporary luck with my leak using JB Water Weld. WaterWeld Epoxy Putty | J-B Weld This assumes the leak is from the plastic side tanks and not the aluminum part of the radiator.
#23
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I would strongly advise parking it until you can fix the problem properly. You mentioned "stop leak" there are a lot of products out there that can cause build up in the system including plugging up your heater core, especially if your car already has a lot of miles and build up of contaminants or jelled coolant. Personally I would rather change of the Radiator which is in the open and easy to get at than the heater core.
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sklimii (01-09-2016)
#25
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rperformance, Jim - no doubt need to replace the radiator - going to try the jb waterweld tomorrow until new radiator comes in (just to keep it from leaking all over the garage floor). At 149K on the clock (58k done in my hands over the last 4 years) I want to keep her around a lot longer!!!
#26
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Not sure if someone else mentioned it, but worth repeating. For any plastic fitting you should always use the oem style spring clamps. The spring clamps allow for thermal expansion and contraction without unduly stressing the plastic fittings. Lots of information regarding this subject if you do a search.
Of course there will also be those who chime in to say they have used screw type clamps on plastic radiator fittings for years without a problem, to which I say "good for you".
Of course there will also be those who chime in to say they have used screw type clamps on plastic radiator fittings for years without a problem, to which I say "good for you".
#27
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I always prefer the sping clamps. The problem is in scrounging
them![Smile](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
As for JB Weld and the garage floor, why bother?
Just drain the radiator far enough to avoid a drip,
or drain completely as prep for the upcoming work.
If you are pretty sure the right radiator is going to
arrive, you could spend some time on prep for the
job such as the draining, loosening of fasteners.
Oh, and buy new hoses, ATF to finish the job.
There may be an o-ring in the transmission line fittings
that you cannot lose. I've forgotten, but look out for them
just in case.
The fittings aren't very tight but use care anyways.
them
![Smile](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
As for JB Weld and the garage floor, why bother?
Just drain the radiator far enough to avoid a drip,
or drain completely as prep for the upcoming work.
If you are pretty sure the right radiator is going to
arrive, you could spend some time on prep for the
job such as the draining, loosening of fasteners.
Oh, and buy new hoses, ATF to finish the job.
There may be an o-ring in the transmission line fittings
that you cannot lose. I've forgotten, but look out for them
just in case.
The fittings aren't very tight but use care anyways.
Last edited by plums; 01-09-2016 at 04:32 PM.
#28
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no idea when the clamps were changed - this hose and the small hose at the top of the thermostat housing have the screw clamps - all others are spring clamps. plan on replacing hoses as these have been on for the 4 years I've owned - all other cooling hoses have been replaced within the last year.
#29
#31
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I just looked at my 99 and the JTIS for a 2000 and you will need to remove the transmission hoses based on what I can see on both. As for the A/C dryer hose I think you might get away with not removing it, I believe it is to have better access to the radiator. I would leave the A/C hose for last and see how it goes. As for the hose clamps I am using the same clamps you have and have had no issues with them to date.
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sklimii (01-10-2016)
#32
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Again, the charged A/C lines do not need to be disconnected. Just loosen the bracket on the dryer unit to give yourself some extra room.
#33
#34
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rperformance, Jim - no doubt need to replace the radiator - going to try the jb waterweld tomorrow until new radiator comes in (just to keep it from leaking all over the garage floor). At 149K on the clock (58k done in my hands over the last 4 years) I want to keep her around a lot longer!!!
My car only has 15K miles but when I changed the coolant (orange) last spring, I found Jelling at the top of the system. Be sure to back flush yours and then use distilled water during refill. Some municipal systems have lots of iron which you don't need.
#35
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#36
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#37
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Just an opportunity to remind folks that conventional antifreeze even in extremely small quantities is both attractive (sweet) and deadly for cats and dogs. A few years ago a friend lost a beloved dog when he went in the house for just a couple of minutes while draining his radiator. Even though he was quick about getting to the vet, the standard emergency treatment of intravenous Everclear was not successful in saving the dog.
#38
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#39