Do you have a reason for your hunch? I must say this is a first for me to see.

 

I've had two Nissens radiators leak on me. Both had cracks in about the same spot I mentioned.

The 2nd replacement is holding so far. The first died about 1 month after the warranty expired. In fairness, the original OEM Nissens did hold up for 11 years.

 

Mike is correct - there is at least one hairline crack on the engine side of the plastic tank - just to the left of the upper hose. Once it warms up and I get the old one out, I will take pics and post

 

Can't guarantee this is an issue, but make sure the foam fill pieces on the sides and bottom are in good shape. Better still, replace them. They will help absorb some of the vibration and may allow the plastic tanks to last longer.

I reused the originals on my first radiator replacement and regretted it. Had it all apart before I realized they should be changed, but I needed to finish that day, so the old ones went back in.

 

Thanks Mike - was looking at those and will probably replace.


Anyway - I started this job this afternoon about 3 and stopped about 730 - not finished. The system is drained after 20 minutes fighting with the drain plug that didn't want to come loose. Hoses off, trans cooler lines removed, electrical connectors for fan assembly disconnected - tried to remove but seemed stuck.


Not really - the AC condenser sits on brackets on the front of the radiator - no problem I'll remove the 2 upper bolts and pry the condenser off the bottom slots - not so easy. Driver side was easy, but passenger side didn't want to move. After fighting with it decided to take fan assembly off to make things easier and then try to remove radiator. No problems there but still not able to remove radiator.


Why is it stuck you ask???? Well on the passenger side there are 2 bolts behind the AC condenser that tie the condenser to brackets on the plastic tank. OH WAIT - JUST LIKE THE PROCEDURE SAYS!!!! Was able to get 1 out, the second is hard to see (about 4inches from the bottom of the condenser).


So tomorrow, I will depressurize the AC and FOLLOW the directions!

 

That sucks!

Gus
www.jagrepair.com

 

Be sure to cap off any hoses you have separated you do not want any moisture to get into the system.

Gus
www.jagrepair.com

 

No, no no ... never follow the instructions

Can you do it by feel? Some people can, and others can't.

It helps to close your eyes. Really.

 

I'm sure there's a joke in there somewhere.

 

have plastic bags tie wrapped over the ends

 

haha - hey plums - I did have them printed and looked over but key point skipped the crucial diagram of the condenser mounting points. Will try to remove the last bolt but trying to look through the bumper and behind the condenser coils to find it is a little bit of a drag.

all else fails I will depressurize and remove as written

 

finished!!!!! Pics of radiator removed, the area of the crack on the old and new installed. Had one hiccup - new radiator had the bleed port in the upper left open (found out when filling and coolant started spewing out) so I had to buy a vacuum plug to seal it.


Have to install the air dam for the alternator and reinstall the bracket for the AC condenser lines but she is back on the road!!!


Setting this to resolved!!!

 

hopefully this will show up - arrow shows where crack is on radiator

 

Many thanks to all who provided input

 

Congrats on the fix!

I had the same issue with the open bleed port. Really freaked me out until I realized what was wrong. My plug fix was not so elegant as yours, but has been holding fine.

 

Do you have a photo of it?

Gus
www.jagrepair.com

 

Gus - pic of the bleed port?? Will take one after work and post but on the older models, there is a small hose running from the upper left corner of the radiator to the coolant reservoir. In mine the ports on the reservoir and the radiator are sealed. If you look at the pic of the new rad installed, you can see the small port in the upper left corner

As for the AC - I was able to remove the bracket without depressurizing the AC - quite the pita and I still have to reattach the bracket but otherwise not a bad job even with some self-induce problems

 

I really was serious about working by feel with eyes closed

It avoids the distraction of not being able to see.

The bleed line is present on the 2001 X308. Famous for breaking,
but it performs a useful function.

Maybe it's a hood clearance thing.

 

I just replaced the radiator on my 2002. It leaked in the same spot as the OP's. I bought a Nissens from Rock Auto, but once I compared it to the original I decided not to use it. It only has half the amount of rows of tubing as the original, and no channels for the rubber dams on top or bottom. I waited too long to find this out...it's going on Craigslist. So I bought a used one, and it leaks in the same spot, even though the local rad shop guy said it was okay in test. He'll be seeing me soon ##%&**!, and the radiator is going back to the seller. I am SO looking forward to doing that job again.
Anyone have info on the Behr-Hella?

BTW, Loosen the clamp on the drier to give the condenser more movement on the passenger side. No need to disconnect the A/C lines

 

Gus - here is the pic of the port with the vacuum plug installed