Radio fuse location
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Dr D. Just inside the ignition keyway, there is a metal gate. This little metal item serves as a switch telling the vehicle that a key is or isn't in the ignition. When key is inserted, several current draining monitors stay active.
This gate, or flap, can accumulate dirt and "stick" open, just like there's a key in the ignition. The aforementioned monitors draw enough current to drain the battery over night + several hours.
Since our cars are so sensitive to battery's charge level (battery doesn't have to be dead to impact system interactions / system performance) this sticking flap can be the culprit for many quirky performance issues.
Does that help?
John
This gate, or flap, can accumulate dirt and "stick" open, just like there's a key in the ignition. The aforementioned monitors draw enough current to drain the battery over night + several hours.
Since our cars are so sensitive to battery's charge level (battery doesn't have to be dead to impact system interactions / system performance) this sticking flap can be the culprit for many quirky performance issues.
Does that help?
John
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EZDriver (05-14-2020)
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#8
Dr D. Just inside the ignition keyway, there is a metal gate. This little metal item serves as a switch telling the vehicle that a key is or isn't in the ignition. When key is inserted, several current draining monitors stay active.
This gate, or flap, can accumulate dirt and "stick" open, just like there's a key in the ignition. The aforementioned monitors draw enough current to drain the battery over night + several hours.
Since our cars are so sensitive to battery's charge level (battery doesn't have to be dead to impact system interactions / system performance) this sticking flap can be the culprit for many quirky performance issues.
Does that help?
John
This gate, or flap, can accumulate dirt and "stick" open, just like there's a key in the ignition. The aforementioned monitors draw enough current to drain the battery over night + several hours.
Since our cars are so sensitive to battery's charge level (battery doesn't have to be dead to impact system interactions / system performance) this sticking flap can be the culprit for many quirky performance issues.
Does that help?
John
#9
You darn right it helps. I will check that as soon as I get back to the hangar where it is located. Probably this afternoon. What lube do you think is best. I talked to a local lock smith he recommended gun oil. He didn't like powder carbon, Thanks again for the info and all the rest of the guys too.
#10
I have always used powdered graphite on the ignition key flap as well as in the door locks and trunk lock. No issues whatsoever. Just remember that a little goes a long way. Best to coat the tip of your key with the powdered graphite and then insert the key into the lock. I typically do it twice, then wipe the key down so the graphite does not spread to your pocket, tablecloth, etc.
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ozbot (05-14-2020)
#11
Ok guys here is what I found out. The fuse locations in the front passenger side is not numbered. So I counted down from the top on the rear row and the last one was #9 and a 10 A. I removed it and the radio stayed on. The radio does not display what it normally does. I displays a horizontal row of 12 squares some with lettering above them that make no sense.
Also the fuse box in the trunk (boot) has no fuse diagram or fuse numbering.
As to the ignition switch it does have the gate at the opening. It seemed to work alright. I lubricated it with a small amount of gun oil and it made no difference on the radio staying on and running the battery down. After a 30 mile drive home and the car sitting for 2 hours the voltage is down to 12.3. I'll check it later to see how fast it decays.
Some how I have either got to get the radio to turn off or find a way to disconnect it, or find out if the switch is causing this and how to stop it there.
That is the story guys. I appreciate any more ideas.
Also the fuse box in the trunk (boot) has no fuse diagram or fuse numbering.
As to the ignition switch it does have the gate at the opening. It seemed to work alright. I lubricated it with a small amount of gun oil and it made no difference on the radio staying on and running the battery down. After a 30 mile drive home and the car sitting for 2 hours the voltage is down to 12.3. I'll check it later to see how fast it decays.
Some how I have either got to get the radio to turn off or find a way to disconnect it, or find out if the switch is causing this and how to stop it there.
That is the story guys. I appreciate any more ideas.
#12
Strange one - do you have the stock radio head unit?
EZDriver,
Do you have the stock radio head unit and/or Premium sound system amp?
When I pull the fuse on my 99 XK8, my radio is dead! If you leave the fuse out does the radio eventually die? Probably an internal problem in the unit.
Another possibility, is that a Previous Owner had a problem and has jury rigged a power supply which isn’t ignition switched.
A long shot is the radio ground point which on my 99MY LHD is easily accessible in the passenger footwell behind the carpet.
Do you have the stock radio head unit and/or Premium sound system amp?
When I pull the fuse on my 99 XK8, my radio is dead! If you leave the fuse out does the radio eventually die? Probably an internal problem in the unit.
Another possibility, is that a Previous Owner had a problem and has jury rigged a power supply which isn’t ignition switched.
A long shot is the radio ground point which on my 99MY LHD is easily accessible in the passenger footwell behind the carpet.
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EZDriver (05-15-2020)
#13
Problem solved. Fuse for the radio is on the bottom of the forward vertical row on the drivers side (Rt) of the car. Pulled the fuse and shut the radio off for good. The ignition switch seems to be working perfectly. Every thing that needs to be turned off is turned off. Battery is staying up while it is fully connected. Thanks guys. I didn't need a radio anyway. I can sing really good especially with the tip down,
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DavidYau (05-15-2020)
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