Rear chassis rail rust repair
#41
Well, I've been a member here for several years, Read many many threads, and have as many thanks to give to the folks who have helped me with restoring / repairing my Jaguar. Like many, I have sought to acquire / restore an 'E' type Jag from the 60's, but to date have not considered investing that kind of money. After all, I just like to work on cars, and play with the toys when they are done. So, to satisfy that style, I have two XKR Jag convertible - both from 2003. They and I are south of Boston MA, in Scituate. If there any Jag enthusiasts in this area - please let me know, I'd love someone to bounce ideas around with. For the rest of the weekend, I am going to complete pulling the interior on the Grey Jag, clean it, rebuild the seats, and get ready to figure out how much of a challenge replacing the top hydraulic hoses really WILL be.
#42
What about the rust. It's what caught my eye in the post. I have 2002 XK8 and I've been wondering what to do with a couple areas at the drivers side foot well/floor pan and on the drivers side floor again, under the rear seat area. Show me yours and I'll show ya mine, lol... Both problem spots visible from under the car.
Would be very interested in your plan of attack 😃
Nice cars, BTW. Lived in the greater Boston area for many years, and am missing New England dearly...
Would be very interested in your plan of attack 😃
Nice cars, BTW. Lived in the greater Boston area for many years, and am missing New England dearly...
#43
Wish I had a plan on rust Jay. The reason; I picked each of these up, because both had been garaged - there is not much rust. The Silver one spent the 18 years in New England garaged, the grey one spent only the last 7 years in NE - and that too was garaged. In my diminishing years, I am beginning to realize: if I want a nice car that I can work on - I have to garage it. I left the Silver one out one winter in a large nylon "sock" - bad move. The moisture got in, and never left - took me months to clean the corrosion (occasional weekend work that is). The engine aluminum is still corroded at the intake manifold. <sigh>
Contrast that to replacing the lower control arms on my 2006 Lexus, and difference is night and day. This car was never garaged. It took me nearly 40 hours to replace those assemblies - should have taken maybe 5 - 6. I have the tools, but completely forgot rust bolt removal 101 - heat. Snapped a 5/8" bolt clean off. Had to cut the other drive shaft in half on the passenger side, and get a shop to press the old shaft carrier bearing out the carrier bracket. Just a nightmare, and the car was 3 years newer (with 200K miles though) than the Jags. Lesson learned: if I want to play on cars, I need a garage in NE.
Contrast that to replacing the lower control arms on my 2006 Lexus, and difference is night and day. This car was never garaged. It took me nearly 40 hours to replace those assemblies - should have taken maybe 5 - 6. I have the tools, but completely forgot rust bolt removal 101 - heat. Snapped a 5/8" bolt clean off. Had to cut the other drive shaft in half on the passenger side, and get a shop to press the old shaft carrier bearing out the carrier bracket. Just a nightmare, and the car was 3 years newer (with 200K miles though) than the Jags. Lesson learned: if I want to play on cars, I need a garage in NE.
#44
What a brilliant thread.
I was searching for help on how to repair rusty chassis legs and found this excellent thread.
Is it really necessary to remove the rear subframe to repair the chassis legs?
I have just replaced the shock top isolators and thought the chassis legs could do with attention.
Old isolators were soft.
Is it really necessary to remove the rear subframe to repair the chassis legs?
I have just replaced the shock top isolators and thought the chassis legs could do with attention.
Old isolators were soft.
#45
I was searching for help on how to repair rusty chassis legs and found this excellent thread.
Is it really necessary to remove the rear subframe to repair the chassis legs?
I have just replaced the shock top isolators and thought the chassis legs could do with attention.
Old isolators were soft.
Is it really necessary to remove the rear subframe to repair the chassis legs?
I have just replaced the shock top isolators and thought the chassis legs could do with attention.
Old isolators were soft.
The following users liked this post:
Neville Hobbs (10-20-2021)
#46
Sorry to resurrect and hijack an old thread but my XXR 2004 has just failed it's MOT, on bottom pendulum bush excessive play from what I understand from the tester
To change these, from what I see, you need to strip the whole rear diff assy? Please say that isn't so - if it is, it'll have to wait until spring as I might as well get the whole lot done and it gives me time to start saving
To change these, from what I see, you need to strip the whole rear diff assy? Please say that isn't so - if it is, it'll have to wait until spring as I might as well get the whole lot done and it gives me time to start saving
#47
Sorry to resurrect and hijack an old thread but my XXR 2004 has just failed it's MOT, on bottom pendulum bush excessive play from what I understand from the tester
To change these, from what I see, you need to strip the whole rear diff assy? Please say that isn't so - if it is, it'll have to wait until spring as I might as well get the whole lot done and it gives me time to start saving
To change these, from what I see, you need to strip the whole rear diff assy? Please say that isn't so - if it is, it'll have to wait until spring as I might as well get the whole lot done and it gives me time to start saving
Last edited by PKWise; 11-01-2021 at 01:10 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by PKWise:
Neville Hobbs (11-02-2021),
rod9669 (11-01-2021)
#50
#51
Word of warning. Before dis-assembly, mark-up and take a photo of the bolt head position on the left and right carriers (see pic of the right side bolt).
These are eccentric bolts and used to adjust the rear Toe. If they are put back on with the wrong angular position, then your car will need re-Alignment at extra cost...
These are eccentric bolts and used to adjust the rear Toe. If they are put back on with the wrong angular position, then your car will need re-Alignment at extra cost...
#52
Indeed. Apparently, according to a guy that owns a very early model, the camber is adjusted by spacer shims on the end of the driveshaft.
My 1999 XKR has offset flanged bolts.
Not quite as tidy as the above photo. Was the car new when you took that photo?
Marked offset flange bolt head.
My 1999 XKR has offset flanged bolts.
Not quite as tidy as the above photo. Was the car new when you took that photo?
Marked offset flange bolt head.
Last edited by Neville Hobbs; 11-04-2021 at 08:46 AM.
#53
The following users liked this post:
Neville Hobbs (11-06-2021)
#54
#55
Drive Shaft Nuts
Day 8...
Time to change the diff oil.
Draining, the breather is working better now I cleaned it.
As the original jag recommended oil is no longer available I went for this, I used an old Halfords bottle to do the filling.
I had a quick try to push in the big bushes with my vice but was not big enough so I dropped into my local MOT garage and used their press to push them in easily. I used the strap to rotate to get perfect alignment.
I started the reassembly then had to strip it all down again as I forgot this bracket.
I then dropped the diff back onto the arms and reattached the pendulum.
Then bolted on the two A frames.
Then the stabiliser arms and the diff front plate.
Next I topped off the diff oil again as some had leaked out of the breather.
Anti roll bar and drop links next.
Then I used a vice to push in the strut bushes and bolted it on.
Next were the axel shafts, the nuts are use once 11/16th and it seems to be almost impossible to get a socket on cleanly to set the torque.
Then onto the hub carrier bolts, remember to align the witness marks you made before taking them off as they set the rear toe. I also attached the shocks but ran out of time for the springs and top mounts.
Then I remembered that I needed to put the shock top mount studs back onto the car with some thread lock, that's it for today.
Time to change the diff oil.
Draining, the breather is working better now I cleaned it.
As the original jag recommended oil is no longer available I went for this, I used an old Halfords bottle to do the filling.
I had a quick try to push in the big bushes with my vice but was not big enough so I dropped into my local MOT garage and used their press to push them in easily. I used the strap to rotate to get perfect alignment.
I started the reassembly then had to strip it all down again as I forgot this bracket.
I then dropped the diff back onto the arms and reattached the pendulum.
Then bolted on the two A frames.
Then the stabiliser arms and the diff front plate.
Next I topped off the diff oil again as some had leaked out of the breather.
Anti roll bar and drop links next.
Then I used a vice to push in the strut bushes and bolted it on.
Next were the axel shafts, the nuts are use once 11/16th and it seems to be almost impossible to get a socket on cleanly to set the torque.
Then onto the hub carrier bolts, remember to align the witness marks you made before taking them off as they set the rear toe. I also attached the shocks but ran out of time for the springs and top mounts.
Then I remembered that I needed to put the shock top mount studs back onto the car with some thread lock, that's it for today.
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