XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

Rear End Noise?

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Old 04-10-2010 | 01:37 AM
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Unhappy Rear End Noise?

I searched but couldn't find any posts about this.

When I'm driving it sounds like old spoke wheel noise coming from the rear of the car when you hit small bumps in the road. This has bothered me quite a bit as the car is completely quiet except for this annoying noise. It definately coming from the rear but I can't find anything loose. I checked the brake dust shields to make sure they were not hitting something as to cause this rattly sound.

Has anyone ever found out what this could be. My father had an XK8 with 37K on it and when he was pulling away from my house one day I heard the same noise as mine makes.

The noise starts as soon as the rear tires go over a bump in the road, RR tracks, etc. lasts for a few seconds and then gone again till the next one.

I know my E-Brake doesn't work that great so I was going to try and adjust those (thanks H20 for the procedure) thinking that might be the cause.

Anyone else have this problem or found the solution?

By the way guys ordered my parts for the allignment issues I was having. Still have the ABS TRAC STAB Faults (didn't want to tear into stuff until I can get the codes)
 
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Old 04-10-2010 | 05:50 AM
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I had a similar noise that drove me absolutely crazy trying to pin it down. It was a rattle that emanated from the rear, sounding like the Gas Door was loose..........but it wasn't. Very long story short, it was solved by treating all of the trunk weatherstripping with Silicon Spray, as well as the Hinges, Trunk Catch, adjusting bolt, etc. Basically, everything that moves or contacts something else in the trunk lid area. Problem solved! Yes, there may be better long term products to use on weatherstripping, but this is what I used, and it worked perfectly. Good luck with your problem, I hope that the solution is equally simple!
Brian
 
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  #3  
Old 04-10-2010 | 09:56 AM
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I solved a similar problem by putting a small dab of grease on top of each adjusting bolt at the FRONT of the Trunk Lid. This is a metal to metal contact and needs lube.
 
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Old 04-10-2010 | 12:00 PM
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Hi Paul,
I think that your same suggestion back then was what pointed me in the right direction.
Thanks again!
Brian
 
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Old 04-11-2010 | 04:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul Pavlik
I solved a similar problem by putting a small dab of grease on top of each adjusting bolt at the FRONT of the Trunk Lid. This is a metal to metal contact and needs lube.
Any pics of what your referring to guys? Hmmm, recently noticed a rattle from my trunk area also, thumping the lid by the 3rd brake light produces a noise, but sounds like its from under the car. Thought it was the mufller or exhaust...but its solid when i move it or 'thump' it. It is annoying.
 
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Old 04-11-2010 | 10:08 AM
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I think this is what he was refering to H20 (see pics). The driver side looks like it would be metal to metal but the passenger has that rubber sleeve that holds the wire. When it closes, the curverd brackets might hit but that's not my problem. Sounds like you may have the same thing I do. When it was on the lift at Jag, I asked the tech about it and he had no idea. I thought loose heat shields, exhaust, or brake dust shields, but to no avail. Sounds like metal to metal and it comes from below the car around the rear tires, suspension. If I could be under the car while driving, I bet I'd find it right away but highly unreccomended.
 
Attached Thumbnails Rear End Noise?-boltdrv.jpg   Rear End Noise?-boltpas.jpg  
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Old 04-11-2010 | 11:33 AM
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XKs are bad about the handbrake cable getting a little loose and the mechanism in the rear brake shoe area RATTLES. Just tighten the 13mm nut on the threaded adjusting rod a few turns and the rattling will stop. You can prove this to yourself by putting the car on a lift and tapping the cable with the back of your hand to 'bounce' it. You will hear the annoying noise that you could never find. I always tighten the nut a few rounds when I do a service to the XKs or any time I lift one and happen to think about it.

bob gauff
 
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Old 04-11-2010 | 03:45 PM
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Bob, I've been chasing the elusive dull rattle from the left rear of my car and I too have stripped out the rear (created some space between an inner trunk lip and an aluminum gas line return, all to no avail. I will go after the emergency brake but can you tell me why I can wiggle the rear tire about an 18th to 3/16th when I grab at the top and bottom, 12 and 6 but not at all from side to side? Maybe this is my rattle?
 
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Old 04-11-2010 | 04:40 PM
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OK, tightening the emerg cable did not work Maybe (probably) it's my imagination but the sound seems more distinct now. Definitely left rear. The reason the hub only moves at 12 and 6 is becouse the brake restricts it at 9. I still don't think it should move but the bearing makes no noise and the wheel nut is around 175 lbs.


Anybody?
 
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Old 04-11-2010 | 11:17 PM
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Thanks Motor, I try that next. I was going to adjust the e-brake anyways as my handle doesn't even rachet when I lift it, and stops the car about as fast as letting off the gas.

RJAG, you may want to start a new thread on your issue. Sound's like brgs to me. I no my fronts never made noise when they went bad. Only way I found it was the wiggle test. Plus having the coupe I'd be suprised if you'd hear a noise. I know with the top up I don't hear my rattle.

Maybe a tech will chime in and let you know.

Good luck.
 
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Old 04-11-2010 | 11:26 PM
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The brake shoes should be adjusted first and then the cable tightened. A little slack can be compensated for but brake wear should be addressed with a shoe adjustment. When I adjust the shoes, I slack the cable, adjust the shoes and THEN adjust the cable. If the handbrake operates normally and there is a rattle then a cable adjust is OK. INOP handbrake needs a shoe adjust!!

bob gauff
 
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Old 04-11-2010 | 11:59 PM
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Yep, that's what I was plannin on. H20 posted the pages on how to adjust. Already printed them and plan on doing this week. Hope that solves it. Thanks again motor.
 
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Old 04-12-2010 | 09:20 AM
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You're right. I will start a new thread on the play issue.
 
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Old 04-12-2010 | 10:21 AM
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And one of these days...I'll point my car towards Decatur to see if a lift is available
 
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Old 03-04-2011 | 06:17 PM
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After taking half the car apart and checking upper shock mounts and all the other items mentioned it boiled down to a right rear wheel bearing. Excessive play.
 
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Old 03-05-2011 | 11:09 AM
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Are you sure. I have had my 99 coupe check by two different sources for excessive play on the rear wheels because of the 12-6 movement and no movement at 9-3. Each said the 12-6 is normal on this car, twice from jaguar techs and one from an independent.
 
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Old 03-05-2011 | 03:30 PM
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No I am not sure. I will have the dealer double check before I get it done. They already told me they wood. They don't want me to leave with the same noise still on.
 
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Old 04-29-2011 | 09:52 PM
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Default Silcone Spray fixed it!

The silicone spray to the trunk weather stripping and bumper stops solved the problem for me!! Thanks so much for sharing this info!
 
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Old 04-29-2011 | 09:56 PM
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I've never noticed this thread before. Weird...

I had some rear end noise a few days ago. I think it was the broccoli.
 
  #20  
Old 04-30-2011 | 12:54 PM
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as the rear wheel bearings are of the tapered roller type a small amount of play is required so that the bearings don't overheat. a case of some is good, too much is bad. there is a spec (I don't recall) but us techs get a feel for how much is right after awhile.
 
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