Ok I got new shock mounts/pads ($40 each) and bushings ($14 each) for the back. So now I have new shock mounts front and back and new bushings on all 4 shocks. The back shock bushings were gone at 71K miles !!! Mounts were ok no wear.

I did the powerflex bushings on the upper A arm front also + roll bar bushings front.

Heres how I did it
0/ Loosen wheel nuts jackup BOTH side of car and put axel stands under the car.
1/ I used the undo the four bolts on the plate under the diff at the back (19mm i think) Bend the plate down from the back about 2 inches, use a block of wood to hold it down. This allows the lower arm to come down enough to get the rear springs/shocks out. That way you don't need to attach spring compressors.
2/ Remove the brake caliper (2 15mm bolts) and speed sensor (1 8mm bolt clean it while its out WD-40 and brass brush it) hang them out the way.
3/ Remove lower hub bolt the concentic one 18mm header and nut is 7/8th I think. Mark the position of the head of the bolt as it is used to adjust Camber angle.!! Important!!
4/ Remove 4 1/2 inch nuts that hold the top cup of the shock.
5/ Remove bolt at the bottom of the shock its inside the bottom spring cup.
6/ With a bottle jack on the bottom of the shock at an angle, push the shock up until you can put a screw driver through a spring loop/shockbushing and hold that shock compressed.
7/ Leaver the spring out just enough so that you can get ur hand to the top of the shock and disconnect the CATS wire plug that is connected to the top of the shock.
8/ Yank the spring out while pressing down on the bottom arm.

NOTE THE BRASS NUT ON THE TOP OF THE SHOCK WHERE THE CATS PLUG IS ATTACHED FITS AN ALLEN KEY INSIDE. DO NOT TURN THE NUT WITHOUT THE ALLEN KEY TO HOLD THE SHOCK STRUT. IT MUST NOT BE TURNED AS THIS WILL BREAK THE WIRES THAT GO DOWN INSIDE THE STRUT!!!

Note to push the bushing out I just used a vice. To get it out I had the old casing from the front bushing or u can rent a ball joint press to press the middle out and then a hack saw to cut through the casing and tap that out. To get it in use a socket (WD40 the rubber bits and gentle turn push socket over) and hammer to get it started then the vice (with the socket!!) to get it 90% in then the old casing to recess it. Or easier find someone with a press LOL

I would also switch the left with the right side i.e. springs and shocks especially in the USA where all the fast corners tend to be right hand so you see wear much heavier on the left side. Same if u do the front suspension..

8.5/ To get it back in COMPRESS THE SHOCK
9/ Put the shock in first attach the plugs for CATS and attach just one nut 1/2inch (the one closest to the side where the spring came out) tighten just a few turns so the strut is hanging down.
10/ Put the rubber pad on the bottom cup spray with WD40.
11/ Slide the shock mount and spring cup holder onto the shock. Then slide the spring in.
12/ Then leaver the spring in while pressing down on the lower arm.
13/ Add other 3 1/2 inch nuts and tighten
14/ Use bottle jack to jack lower arm up into position to get the 18mm concentric bolt back in add nut but do not tighten yet.
15/ Put the shock bolt back in and jack the hub up a little then tighten the two bolts back up to torque.
16/ Remove block on diff plate jack plate backup and replace the 4 19mm bolts.
17/ Replace brake caliper and speed sensor + new cable tie for that.

Whole job took me 5 hours for both sides, but it was my first time and I did it all on my own. Fronts are way easier.

Ok next job PepBoys for a $90 wheel alignment.

 

Simon, nice write up and thanks.
This will be the way I do the next one instead of fighting the spring compressors.
Wayne