Ryan, looking at the JTIS for your model, it states that you need to compress the spring and remove the spring/shock assembly as a complete unit so you can dismantle the assembly and get the shock out. So, you will need a spring compression tool. if you want the step by step according to JTIS, I will send it your way, just say so.

 

Would love to know the details of this method...even pics. as my 1997 XK8 rear upper shock bushings need to be replaced. The idea of compressing springs etc. looks difficult and dangerous.

 

Jacktoth, that bushing can be replaced on the car. There are some good pictures and explanation on how to on here somewhere. If you can't find itI will see what I can do.
I recently did a write up on how to do the front on the car and in that case the whole shock comes out so easy not worth getting bent out of shape over. BUT, the technic would be the same on the rear.
If I remember rightly, you take the lower bolt out and jack the outer hub up and the shock lower bushing will be in plane view. It will require the right sockets or bearing installers plus a good bolt. Here's how on the front. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...st-way-156730/


Wayne

 

I have discussed this on several occasions. You just need to drop the triangle shaped steel plate in the rear and the arms will drop low enough to allow the springs/dampers to FALL OUT!!!!!!!!!!!

Take the bolts out and bend the $H!T out of the metal plate. When you are done you just use a jack to bend the plate back into place and install the bolts.

When I worked at the Jag dealer we gave up using the JTIS method because it takes too much time and it is dangerous to your fingers.

Time is money at the dealer and we usually found 'alternate' methods to repair cars.

Do it anyway you want but I am offering an alternate method that is quick and easy.

bob gauff

 

Do you literally mean "bend" or apply leverage to pull it lower?

My thinking is that the A-frame is the basis of locating the entire
rear suspension.

 

The steel plate on the bottom of the suspension unit will FLEX but it will also be bent a little after you pull it down and jam a block of wood (or whatever) to keep it in place (DOWN).

It will MOSTLY spring back into place but it might need a little help with a jack to get the 4 bolts back in the diff and threaded steel support brackets.

You can also loosen the row of bolts along the front edge on the lower steel plate.

I have done dozens like this ever since I watched an 'old-timer' (I say old timer because he is about 10 years older than me) at the dealer do it this way. He was done in no time and did not even go in the tool room for the 'stupid' special tools.

All the XJ40, X300, X308 and X100 with the spring pan built into the lower arms can be done this way.

Some people drop the entire rear suspension a little but that is too much work for me. I don't like to dangle heavy parts 5 or 6 feet off the ground if I can help it.

Like I said, "do it anyway you want" but watch your fingers if you use 2 spring compressors. Sometimes they slide together to one side and the spring comes loose.

Lots of potential energy there and you don't want it to become KINETIC all of a sudden.

bob gauff

 

Thanks for the clear explanation.

It is much clearer now that I remember your previous
explanation. I was picturing the removal of the front
bolts at the bushings when you are actually talking
about the rear. Completely different thing.

I'd probably go after the front bolts for the vertical plate
too. Big fan of creating clearance. And I have the luxury
of being able to take as much time as needed.

Springs? Not so much.

 

Just to Add, You should remove the brake caliper since once the arms lower they may stress the brake line, The passenger side was easier but the drivers side had the fuel rails running along the top of the inside wheel well and needed a tad more clearance. I was working on stands so had problems really leveraging down the plate, I use a brake compressor, there are 2 tabs on the top which locked into a gap then I very carefully expanded the plate. Of course this was before I decided to drop the whole thing to fix leaking seal (see other post) you can see fluid on passenger side.

 

Motorcarman's method worked like a dream. I as able to easily drop the rear two out. I used a small jack and block between the inside top of rear fender and wheel to pushing gently and hold down the arm to slip out the spring/shock and will do the same when inserting the new one.

Now I also want to replace front shocks and would like to know if they can be removed without taking out the spring; is there enough room to slide the front shock down and out after removing the upper and lower mounting bolts ? The upper mount was replaced 15K ago (by previous owner) so no need to do it. Any advice here certainly appreciated.

 

Jack, Short answer, NO. You can take the whole strut out and take it to a shop for them to change the shock out. The top "A" arm is all that you need to get out of the way. Be very careful of the shims and keep a record of where they go. If they need replacing, Rev Sam did a great video on that part of it.


Wayne

 

I used Bob's method removing the 4 bolts from the lower plate and was able to push the lower arm low enough to get the spring out with no real damage to the plate.

I did use a Loan-a-tool spring compressor I used for the front springs to make it a little easier to remove. I jacked up the arm to compress the spring, hooked on the compressors, then lowered the arm. The spring compressor just kept the spring from stretching to full length.

You can't really get in there to tighten the McPherson strut style compressors, anyway.

 

Glad all is working out, you will get lots of calls in your area for help. Always good to have some one that's been there done that, even if just standing over your shoulder and drinking a beer.
The four bolt method is gathering some fame, just like the tie method for the tensioners did. Very cleaver people on this forum.


Wayne

 

If anyone has any pictures that would be GREAT, as I am going to be replacing my rear shocks and spring insulators in a few weeks... when I did the fronts I think I used rev sam's video which was AWESOME!

 

Post #10 has a pic!!!!!!!!!!!!

bob

 

No kidding... is that what that is???

Okay... LET ME CLARIFY... if anyone has any USEFUL pics that help show the shock removal procedure that would be very helpful (especially the triangle plate that Bob (the smart*** ) references that needs to be bent down).

Thanks to all!

 

And I did find this post HERE that had some good instructions and pictures ... with you yelling at everybody to just BEND THE PLATE DOWN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

THANKS!

 

Bob posted this in an earlier thread:





On my car the forward two bolt are recessed and need a thin walled socket. Laying under the car, its even hard to tell there are bolts up in the holes, but there are and they need to come out.