IV had a rest from the welding and been concentrating on the IRS refurb (work of art)
Got the other bits back from the sand blaster (cost £40)
Every thing got 2 coats of epoxy 121, the first coat was put on with a brush and the second coat was sprayed on some days later.
After 7 days it was all scuffed up with 320 grit and cleand down ready to take the colors, Red,White and Blue. The diff will be Black and the ally cooling pan will get a good clean and polish with a coating of 2k clear to hopfully keep it that way.

Iv orderd Adamesh rear only lowering springs (hopfuly they come in the red color as on there site) The 7.5 shims from SNG along with other stuff for the refurb.

The diff oil was draind by removing the breather and turning it up side down and catching it in a dish, a full 2L came out and didnt look to bad, im replacing it with 2L of Amsoil severe gear 75-110

The steel part of the diff has been de rusted using the needel gun and will be wire wheeld before painting, the ally pan is getting there but more work needed still.

The epoxy 121


Some parts getting the colors




The mono strut bushings will be replaced with powerflex bushings

The diff (on going)


Any how, the sun is out and im off to sit in the garden, with a hard earned Beer or two...

 

I know you have put much effort in to date, but I do believe that you're secretly rather enjoying this

"But nobody will see it!"

"No, but I know it's there"...

Keep up the good work.

 

Update....
The work on the rear IRS is just about finished.
New hand brake cables (left and right) still to fit, diff to be filled with oil, the ARB needs fitting... This will be done later when its time to refit the IRS to the car.

The shocks have new top/bottom bushes etc and pig tails fitted, The mono strut has new poly bushes, A frame new poly bushes, All other bushes are left as in good condition (hopefully)..........

The new Adamesh springs and 7.5 half shaft spacers are fitted.

Some photos ..




Had to cut the spring compressors down with a grinder


Also new nuts/bolts etc used where needed and used Loctite 248 .

 

HOLY MONA LISA !!!! That is a work of art. You are a man of obsessive tastes and OCD. That looks wonderful, good job. The Union Jack is tearing up a bit, I would say. TM

 

"A thing of beauty is a joy forever."

Great stuff. Now I'm sure you're enjoying this

Don't forget to polish the exhaust while you have good access

 

Firstly I’m very impressed with the welding.
I wonder why Jaguar decided 3 layers of plate were better than one thick component more impervious to rust.
Was the epoxy put on the layers as you built them up? And if so would the epoxy not burn with the heat of welding?
I always have the worry of rust inside a box section after I’ve welded patches on and can only try to waxoil the box after welding - which isn’t possible with plates welded so closely.
is the weld-thru primer good enough between plates?

 

Yes michaelh, i am starting to enjoy this (some times) lol..
Now dont get me started on polishing the exhaust please, iv still got lots to do, and if i start on the exhaust with my OCD id never get the car finished..lol..

Berks4x4........Thanks for the welding comment,
Yes the epoxy was put on the layers as it was built up, but removed 5mm each side of the weld area (before welding) , after welding, the epoxy on the out side that i can see is in good condition and not burnt, you do get some discoloration due to heat/uv but when the area is cleaned for the next coat of epoxy, the first coat is still fully bonded to the metal. As the inside cant have the second coat of epoxy applied i use the weld-thru primer where iv removed the 5mm of epoxy at the weld area.
( hope that makes sense )
Rust busters do a weld-thru epoxy, this would possibly be better to use (but i dont have any) but i do have lots of 121 epoxy and upol weld -thru primer.

I read that Honda and others recommend any repair panel should have both sides protected with epoxy primer before welding (i think)

When i weld, its stich welding and spot welding, small areas at a time then cool the area with compressed air and then move to another area, and so the heat is kept to a minimum.

When the repair is all welded, i then spray dinitrol ml in to the cavity, then i put a compressed air hose in there to push the oil in to all areas (hopefully), and then more dinitrol ml for good measure.

I think weld-thru primer on the back/front will be fine, this is the way most would do the job..

Good luck.