The other day Julian posted a list of his recent updates. I noticed he installed HID lights to replace the low beams. Since I have always been really dissatisfied with my low beam's performance I asked him for more information. He kindly posted this link:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NRVCDLS...ding=UTF8&th=1

{in case link doesnt work: go to amazon and look for Kensun HID Xenon Conversion Kit "All Bulb Sizes and Colors" with "Slim" Digital Ballasts - H1 - 4300k}

I bought the item and finished installing it today. How does it work? Better than I ever expected. I can now (finally) see a safe distance and more ahead. I no longer feel the need to rush to put on my high beams once traffic clears.

I should acknowledge I was concerned that I might turn into one of those annoying cars that blinds everyone comming their way, always having to flash to prove I dont have high beams on. Good news: I just finished testing this, no one felt any discomfort, oncomming traffic or driving in front of me.

Bottom line, the difference is night and day.

Julian said he got his installed in about 30 minutes. Well Julian you must be a bit more advanced than I. I took a bit more but it was sure worth it.

This is one of those jobs that after the first time you do it, the time to install drops to a fraction of the time it took last time. If anyone decides to give it a try, do let me know. I can help you shave a ton of time off the install with all I've learned installing this one. Planning this job is not exactly obvious the first time. Didn't figure it worth while to post install instructions unless someone needs them, but happy to do so if you like.

I'm still amazed at the improvement. I've been missing this for years. Nice job Julian, thanks.

John

 

How did you decide which color to install?

 

Thanks for the post! I definitely want to do this because I hate having to turn on my fog lights at night just to be able to see. Sounds like it's a pretty simple job? Going to give it a shot. Any pictures or comparisons?

 

Ok fist color. I chose 4300 based on Julian's recommendation. It is a very white color with a very slight hint of blue at the edges.

How to install:

1) remove old bulb. Take wheel off, unclip headlight cover in wheel well. Turn black circular weather protector anti clockwise while pushing.

Important: note orientation of notch in existing bulb plate. Remove bulb. Assume all of us know about finger oil and bulbs.

Prepare to install new hid.

Remove entire rubber grommet from wires. Imo it just tangles things up.

Identify wires. Flat spade wires go to existing power source (1 = goes to female spade that went to rear of bulb; 1 = goes to grnd wire factory connected to side of headlight case). These both are hardwired to back of new bulb. New bulb has 3 high voltage connectors (2 bullet, one modular) that connect to silver transformer pack.

Now get your head around planned wire routing.

The car's 2 power connects (female spade) are both on inside of headlight enclosure. The 3 connections to transformer must reach outside headlight enclosure. Therefore you must make a path to get the 3 wires from bulb to transformer.

As I see it there are 4 paths, some better than others. All listed for completeness.

1 - remove entire headlight and routing the wires. Way too complicated for me.

2 notch a wire passage in edge of black cylinder that surrounds headlight. I did this for first install. Take a pair of diagnol wire cutters and nibble a small notch at 9 o'clock in black plastic cylinder. Drawback is housing is very brittle. You risk cracking more than you want.

3) same as #2 but use a heated soldering iron to create the notch by melting.

4 ) drill hole in center back of black weather cover. The hole is a bit larger than 1/2 inch. Use modular connector to size it. It must be able to pass through. (see John's additional information in post #11 - GGG)

I used #4 for lite #2. Far easier than other options. I did not discuss using power tool like Drexel or drill to notch cylinder- you can't control where all the shavings will land.

I will use silicon to seal notches and make weather tite.

Install bulb. Here's where you use the notch for orientation. The manufacturer assures me that the bulb can only go in 1 way, but just be sure the profile of the protruding bulb base is vertical. That way the spring clip that hols the bulb can accommodate it.

It will fit, just go slow. (After my install I 2nd guessed myself and asked manufacter about orientation. Was assurEd it can only go in 1 way)

Good news: yes you can fit the connectors on the bulb through the space in between the vertical wires of the spring clip. I took my 1st clip all the way off cause I wasn't sure. After the battle to reattach it i I found it is not necessary.

Now bulb is secured. Run wires through notch and secure black plastic weather cap.

Next we will secure aluminum box transformer. You will need long wire ties. The mounting holes are too small. Find the drill bit that is just barely larger than the hole (I'll go to garage and see if I can post exact size later- try 9/64 inch) and run it through the hole. Super quick and easy.

Now large wire tie will fit through. If you mount it vertical have wires protrude at top to reach.

Secure box with wire ties. I used vertical hard plastic hose on driver side, the shelf on passenger.

Connect bullets and modular connection.

Secure lose wires with wire ties.

Seal notches with silicon or something similar.

Note: don't get stressed if your auto headlights do not come on. I find that if I disconnect and reconnect headlight power for any reason, auto on requires 1 on off ignition cycle to work. It is what it is....

Job done. Adjust headlights. In 1998 we have a built-in level. Of course it assumes car is level. Use door sill to check with your level.

These things are so good the fog lights do not add much anymore. I have not had a single car flash me, they are not bugging anyone.

John

 

Thanks for posting John. Going to get this done probably next week

 

Great, love to hear how you like it. John

 

in the link for the lights there is a legal disclaimer - "for off-road use only" so are there state or federal laws disallowing these

 

Good catch but I m surprised to hear that. Their instructions are clearly targeted at everyday driving on roads. I think the fact that properly adjusted headlights attract absolutely no complaints, and I just got back from another 60 mile trip at nite, put this into the don't worry about it category for me.

Thanks for catching that, wonder what their lawyers were thinking :-).

John

 

It's because if you put hid bulbs or led bulbs into a housing that wasn't designed for them you get lots of scatter, which can blind oncoming drivers. No amount of adjustment can truly get rid of the scatter (because of physics), but I think most oncoming drivers are just resigned to being blinded - I know I don't bother flashing anymore. I think the projectors in the jag are less 'bad' than fresnel lenses, but the only true way to upgrade is to install hid projectors to go with the hid bulbs.

 

Bladerunner, great info thanks. I do notice a sharp horizontal cutoff of this beam. I should explain better. When using at nite, white light on pavement comes to a sharp end on the pavement ahead of me. In fact it is even notched to a shorter distance on far left where any like spills into oncoming traffic lane.

This made me think the headlight enclosure was already designed for this. I figured it is an artificial horizon that protects those in front from glare. Though I'll admit they bug me when oncoming traffic hits a small rise in the road - looks like a high beam flash.

FYI, one of my tests for glare was with close friend so I'm confident that I'm not bugging on comming based on their feedback.

Friends, please just take this as input / evaluation. I am not defending these things in any way at all. I personally hated the lights that came on 98s so much (they're bloody unsafe imo) that I wanted to let you know there's light at the end of the tunnel (couldn't resist). So my responses are just to inform in a friendly way. Use it if you choose it.

John

 

Friends, need to update my install instructions & recommended wire routing. Routing method #4, drilling hole in black round weather cover allows water in very small amounts to get in. No big deal but it leads to a little condensation.

OTOH, #2 and/or #3, notching a gap to pass wires, is completely water tight.

I have not had a chance to seal #4 with caulk, but I want to post this immediately for your reference.

 

John,

I've added a note in red text next to (4) in your original instructions pointing to your update in post #11.

Graham

 

Graham, you are the best thank you. John

 

John, I have been following the XK8 Low Beam Conversion thread from back in 2016. I saw you provided a link for a conversion kit. The link did not work and I tried the Kensun link but it covers several sizes. I did find this link on ebay and would like to know if this is the one:

KENSUN XENON HEADLIGHT CONVERSION KIT H7 4300K 35W HID

If not, can you recommend another option.

Thanks,

Kent

 

Just checked Amazon. Looks like they dont sell this anymore. Googled Kensun, they now sell directly, same price. Frankly based on my experience with their outstanding customer service, it may be a benefit to work with them directly.

Customer service notwithstanding, I wonder how much difference there is with other brands. John

 

Attempted my Kensun Xenon Conversion today and it was a tremendous failure. Basically followed John's recommendations to the T and it seemed to do very smoothly. Was very careful not to touch the bulb and all connections were done as required. Bottom line is there was no light what so ever. I was confused by the main light vs. the dip light and I assume the functioning light should be on the outer most lens. Nothing on the side I modified. The drivers side was functioning with the the original H1 bulb.

I removed the Kensun kit and installed a new H1 bulb back to the the original installtion. It did not light up either. I had the vehicle inspected last month and all the light passed but I have not driven at night since. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Kent, let's figure it out.

1) have you had a chance to check the fuse? There are separate fuses for left and right low beams. Finding that attaching a fuse chart is a battle, will try to follow up later. Fuse box is under hood, memory = fuse 6 and 8, not sure though.

2) let's make sure you didn't get defective HID. Line the ballast and bulb up on a board or something. Connect 12volts and ground (BTW memory tells me the connection is polarized, gotta get positive cable on right terminal). Bulb gets hot fast so cant be touching anything.

Blip the connection, did she light? If not and you used same company I did, call them. They overnight warranty replacements.

3) assuming fuse good, HID assembly lights, probe for 12v at low beam connection.

Kent, I'm sure you remember there is a high voltage line between the ballast and the bulb. I'll add this to remind anyone who references it down the road. Hands off the wire when activated.

Will await feedback.

John

 

Here you go...

 

Thanks John. I only checked the main headlamp fuses. I will check the dip (now that I have the terminology straight) fuses tomorrow and get back to you. I will also test the HID's as well.
Really appreciate you help.

Kent