reduced performance mode
#21
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wcnesta (06-20-2012)
#23
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I just got the bad news from my Jag dealer about my RP message. The # 1 knock sensor appears to be the problem. They quoted me a price of $1,500 to replace the sensor. I have another repair garage that I called about replacing them. They specialize in Jaguar repair and host some of our meets. A lot of the guys in our club use them. I am waiting to hear back from them for a quote to do this job. If the intake manifolds don't have to come off it should not be that difficult a job. I think something leaked on them or the previous owner steam cleaned the engine. I think the repair cost is a little high from my Jag dealer. I think $500-$700 would be a fair price for this job. Any comments?
Bill N
03 XKR
Bill N
03 XKR
#25
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I just talked to my independent garage, Jag service guy. They want around $500.00 to replace both knock sensors. That sounds fair to me, so I am going to have them do the job next week. This garage is well known to my Jaguar club and our members take their Jags there for work. I have not heard any complaints about their work. They have a certified Jaguar mechanic working for them and he is scheduled to work on my car.
I felt that replacing both sensors made sense as they only cost about $40.00 each and will only add about 1/2 hour more to do. I am also going to have two of the top water hoses for my supercharger replaced as I saw some ware on the top of the hoses, caused by them rubbing on the hood liner.
I also just ordered a U480 Can-bus scanner @$14.99 from Amazon. It is just the basics and is on the recommended OBDII scanner list.
Bill N
03 XKR
I felt that replacing both sensors made sense as they only cost about $40.00 each and will only add about 1/2 hour more to do. I am also going to have two of the top water hoses for my supercharger replaced as I saw some ware on the top of the hoses, caused by them rubbing on the hood liner.
I also just ordered a U480 Can-bus scanner @$14.99 from Amazon. It is just the basics and is on the recommended OBDII scanner list.
Bill N
03 XKR
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wcnesta (06-22-2012)
#27
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The RP message is coming up more frequently on my XKR. It comes up after sitting for about 1 hour now. I suspect the #1 knock sensor is getting more sensitive to heat. I still have a week to go before I have them replaced. I think it will be replaced just in time before it fails completely. I also decided to have the antifreeze and the thermostat replaced during this visit.
Bill N
03 XKR
Bill N
03 XKR
#28
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The frequency of the Reduced Power message on my 03 XKR is getting worse. I think I found the connector that the #1 knock sensor plugs into. It looks like it is located by the thermostat housing. The other knock sensor #2 is on the passenger side of the engine.
The knock sensor #1 plug is underneath the cooling hoses for the supercharger and under the hood Louvre. Water coming in through the hood Louvre could have gotten in the plug, if the plug seal was bad, and could cause the contacts to corrode. I tried to get this plug off so I could check the contacts, but the thing is on there real tight and I do not want to break it. It looks a little aged and brittle. Maybe a little WD40 would help get it apart??
I think it might be possible that if the contacts are corroded, it could give me the intermittent RP messages that only happen when the engine is hot and sits in the sun for about 1/2 hour. When I go to start the car I get the RP message almost immediately.
It occurred to me that if heat from the engine is causing the plug to expand causing a bad connection,due to corroded contacts, then when it happens again I should be able to spray the connector with circuit freeze and it should clear the PR message right away. The way it clears out now, is if I drive the car about 20 miles without stopping.
This may all be wishful thinking but it kinda makes sense and would be a lot cheaper fixing the plug, than replacing the knock sensors.
Has anybody had a problem with this knock sensor plug connector and if so what kind of error did it cause?
Bill N
03 XKR
The knock sensor #1 plug is underneath the cooling hoses for the supercharger and under the hood Louvre. Water coming in through the hood Louvre could have gotten in the plug, if the plug seal was bad, and could cause the contacts to corrode. I tried to get this plug off so I could check the contacts, but the thing is on there real tight and I do not want to break it. It looks a little aged and brittle. Maybe a little WD40 would help get it apart??
I think it might be possible that if the contacts are corroded, it could give me the intermittent RP messages that only happen when the engine is hot and sits in the sun for about 1/2 hour. When I go to start the car I get the RP message almost immediately.
It occurred to me that if heat from the engine is causing the plug to expand causing a bad connection,due to corroded contacts, then when it happens again I should be able to spray the connector with circuit freeze and it should clear the PR message right away. The way it clears out now, is if I drive the car about 20 miles without stopping.
This may all be wishful thinking but it kinda makes sense and would be a lot cheaper fixing the plug, than replacing the knock sensors.
Has anybody had a problem with this knock sensor plug connector and if so what kind of error did it cause?
Bill N
03 XKR
#31
#32
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Hi Paul
Was the location I indicated the right place for the #1 knock sensor plug? Was yours hard to unplug? I was able to finally unplug mine. I was pulling it the wrong way. Gave it a shot of contact cleaner and will see what happens. I have until Monday to see if this takes care of the problem, if not I am going to have them replace both knock sensors.
Bill N
Was the location I indicated the right place for the #1 knock sensor plug? Was yours hard to unplug? I was able to finally unplug mine. I was pulling it the wrong way. Gave it a shot of contact cleaner and will see what happens. I have until Monday to see if this takes care of the problem, if not I am going to have them replace both knock sensors.
Bill N
Last edited by wcnesta; 06-26-2012 at 11:37 AM.
#33
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I was not getting a Knock Sensor Code, just Rich Mixture on both banks.
But bad connections can result in a Code for a Good Sensor.
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wcnesta (06-27-2012)
#34
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But bad connections can result in a Code for a Good Sensor.
I agree with Paul, have had several sensor codes. Unplugged the sensor, cleaned it and reinstalled and no more problems. Always a first try for me before change sensor/parts or repairs. doing the ABS this weekend, speed sensors they came on twice while on vacation last week. Plug and Play. Jim
I agree with Paul, have had several sensor codes. Unplugged the sensor, cleaned it and reinstalled and no more problems. Always a first try for me before change sensor/parts or repairs. doing the ABS this weekend, speed sensors they came on twice while on vacation last week. Plug and Play. Jim
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wcnesta (06-27-2012)
#35
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I just got my scanner and I get a P1000 code for the Reduced Power message. I had taken the connectors off and sprayed them with contact cleaner, but that didn't help. I sprayed the connectors with contact freeze, no help. While I was under the hood I noticed that the top of my supercharger was hot. the sides were hot but you could hold your hand on them the middle section with the V8 on it was real hot. Is that normal?
Bill N
Bill N
#36
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I think my problem is a heat sensitive knock sensor. Everything points to it so far. I did notice the top of my supercharger was hot . See my lastest thread about this.
Bill N
#37
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When you say the top of your S/C is hot---do you mean the intercoolers? The word "supercharger is on top. If the I/C's are hot there's a good chance the aux. cooling pump is not operating---check the fuse for this it's located in the engine compartment on the passenger size fuse box---can't remember the fuse #. You can also hear the aux. pump running when the key is turned to II position (engine not running)---you'll hear the pump hum under the air filter box. You can also feel the top of the pump.
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wcnesta (06-27-2012)
#38
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Bill, I also have the P1000 code on my car. I took it to the dealer last year and they informed me that I have a exhaust leak. They said the sensor was detecting a variance in back pressure and they could inject a material in the exhaust system to find the leak. We don't have vehicle inspections in SC. That was 12,000 miles ago. Just got back from a 750 mile trip thru the mountains of Ga, SC, Nc and TN averaged 23 mpg. I use the code read every couple weeks to insure that something else has not showed up hit erase and cruise on. The light was a pain at first but time has taken care of that. I hope you will be as lucky. Jim
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wcnesta (06-27-2012)
#39
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If you Manually Clear a Code with your Code Scanner, the Sequences have to run again and a P1000 will be set until completion.
When the Monitor Sequences are Complete a P1111 code will replace the P1000 Code.
These Codes (P1000 & P1111) are Jaguar Specific.
All cars, Including Jaguar will report the "Monitor Complete" Status to a Code Scanner. Jaguar also sets the P1000/P1111 in addition.
My Supercharger gets fairly warm during normal operation but will get Warmer after turning off the Engine (due to Heat Soak). If the Intercooler Circulation Pump is not working, the Supercharger will be hot and Pinging will probably occur during High Power Operation.
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wcnesta (06-27-2012)
#40