+1

OK, I haven't had to pull the motor or trans, but nearly all the work I've done has not been difficult, it's just the amount of 'stuff' you have to remove to get to what you need to do. So, laborious rather than onerous.
Exceptions were the connections at the back of the compressor and the brake shoes, although the latter was probably my approach.

Armed with the the collective knowledge of this forum and abundance of documentation, most things are doable

 

I get a 'kick' out of y'all complaining about how hard things are to repair on a Jaguar and then complain about the repair bill if someone else does the work???

Been working on Jaguars for almost 50 years and I learned PATIENCE if nothing else.

 

I could not see any cracks in the power wires of my ABS module either. I was using 3 different magnifiers, the strongest was 26x power.

I went ahead and melted and sucked up the existing solder on both power wires and redid them. That fixed the problem, so far.


Z

 

Was your board covered in this plastic coating? I'd have to cut it away....or melt it away(?) to get at the solder and posts. I'm getting a little nervous about this. Do you think my module is an updated replacement for the original? But how could those solder joints get loose with that heavy coating on there? From the BACKSIDE maybe? Has anyone removed the board from the module base to see the other side of the connections? FYI: I just looked at the joints with a jeweler's loop. I think I see some dark spots and cracking at the tip of one of the posts. At this point I hope that's the culprit.

 

My ‘02 XKR’s circuit board did not have any type of coating on it.


Z

 

l noticed the OP's ABS is early 6 valve ABS only, while the later units are 9 valve abs/traction control. The boards seem to have different component layout but same basic design. The coating most likely only an early board feature.

Edit. sorry oldjaglover, l did not see your post re coating. The above might answer your question.
l also think your best bet is scraping the coating from the two posts with a pick.

 

I haven't seen it anywhere else, but it's a great idea if it doesn't hide problems. I removed the plastic with one of my hobby tool cutting tubes. LO and BEHOLD! Along the bottom edge of the soldered joints I can see the cracks. It took a lot of light and magnification, but they are definitely cracked......even with the plastic coating on. So, I'm heading to my brother's for his professional soldering skills.

 

I was wondering why I had fewer valves. Mine is a fairly early build/model. The coating is easier to see in my last pic.

 

After I cut away the plastic coating my brother re-soldered the two pump connection joints. He also noticed (under high magnification) that the left side of the BLADE CONNECTORS also looked bad. So, he re-soldered those joints. They are the double posts that come from the two big blade connectors in the larger multi-pin connector. I'll show pics of both. So, the next step is to seal this all up and get it back into its "cradle". I pray this solves the problem.

 

Well, this nightmare continues. After spending a week in the hospital from the Covid attack (even after both vaccinations), I finally got back to getting the Jag on the road again. Everything that could go in "hard" did it the most difficult way possible. Everything is plugged back in, tightened down, clamped up, and all in order. The engine started fine.....but with the ABS light on, the DSC lights flashing, the E. brake light not going out, and THEN.....a damn P1637 CODE! Searching tje forum I have not found the exact reason for this code, but it seems related to the ABS. I drove the car a few blocks and the lights refused to go out. I need to get it smogged NOW so I can pay for the registration, but with a CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON the shop will not even attempt it. Everything was done perfectly and rechecked over and over. WHAT DO I DO NOW????

 

As I recall, you never disconnected the battery to avoid having to go through clearing the various monitors. Have you tried using an OBD tool to read and re-set the individual codes? Some of the less expensive ones don't read all of the chassis-related modules, P1637 can mean a bad connection between the Engine Control Moldule (ECM) and the ABS Control Module (ABSCM). This can be caused by a faulty ground to the ABS module, so I would check the plug connections on the ABS control unit.

Best wishes for your full recovery from your Covid ordeal.

 

What a PITA. The P1637 decode is:



The CAN bus terminates at one end in the ABS module, so there may be a bad connection to the harness.

The easiest way to check if there is a fault on the CAN termination is to measure the resistance across pins 6 and 14 of the OBD connector under the dash (ignition off). You should see around 60 ohms if everything is in order. If there's a problem with the ABS connector you will see around 120 ohms. Here's a generic pic. of the OBD connector pinout:



If you find the higher resistance value, then check the harness connector, but this isn't going to be too easy to see given its location. Perhaps one of the pins has got bent, or it's possible that a connector has got pushed back into the harness plug body?

I've circled the pins (5 & 15) on your pic of the module that relate to the CAN:

 

Both plugs reconnected? Obvious l realise but it can happen in the heat of the battle that the obvious gets overlooked.

 

Where would the GROUND to the ABS module be? FYI: I did a hard reset, and the ABS light and other messages re-appeared. CEL is on, and I assume it will be the same P1637 code, but have not checked it or tried to clear it. BUT A NEW MESSAGE HAS APPEARED: "INCORRECT PART INSTALLED". WTH IS THAT??? I didn't change any parts. I've read nightmare threads by owners who used replacement modules and had the ridiculous P1637 show up even though it never had before. This is my "original" module, expertly re-soldered.

OH....and what about the SPEEDOMETER not working (as my son reported after he drove it).

 

Now I'll sound really ignorant: What is the CAN....and where do I access it?

 

My son just did the resistance test on the #6 and #14 pins as you suggested. The good news is that it tested at 60 OHMS. He also cleared the code that was stored (P1637). I have not treied turning the key on again.....YET. But it does look like my ABS module connections are ok.

 

Both in there snug as far as I can tell. The big multi-pin connector went in and latched like butter.
The two-pin ******* went in hard just like it came out, but I think it can only insert one way, and I shoved it as deep as I could.

 

Even though my resistance between the pins you showed me checked out fine at the scanner port, I noticed that in your schematic the #16 pin says "Battery Power". Upon closer and closer inspection my #16 pin is slightly bent at a little angle. I don't think it would be possible to reinstall that connector if one or more pins didn't slide into the harness connector. When I put the two halves in place and gently pushed them together they slid in very easily. THAT SAID.......is it even remotely possible I am not getting power at that pin? How would I test that without taking things apart again? And, yes, I am planning on pulling BOTH connections apart to re-inspect them again. But a check of the continuity as it sits would be nice.

 

Hi Ken,
I'm not clear what you mean here? The OBDII connector under the dash doesn't normally have anything connected to it. Pin #16 is connected to the car B+ to either power an OBD device like the ELM327, or (my guess) for the Jaguar diagnostic kit to monitor and report on the battery voltage. Please can you expand?

I'm assuming that you mean here the harness plug that goes into the ABS module. Not a guarantee, but it is a good sign if it seats properly and locks in place.

 

I would like to copy your pic of the PCB to illustrate a repair I recently made to the board if that's ok?