My bad. I had mistaken your "code" schematic of the plug-in for the ABS module connector. And, my slightly bent pin must have slid into the harness because it all went together so easily. I haven't put the car back in my garage to check both those ABS connectors yet because it is doing some very strange stuff when I start it up.

After a battery disconnect or hard discharge the CEL light goes off. I drove it for an hour the other day and it never came back.....UNTIL I shut the car off and restarted it in the driveway. CEL came back and persisted until I disconnected the battery and let it sit. CEL out upon startup and idle, shut off, restart and it comes back. WTH????

But a NEW "problem" has arrived......a beeping "alarm". At first it did it when I shut the car off and the key was still in the ignition. Now, it does it AFTER the key is removed. It even went off when I reconnected the battery yesterday and the key was in my pocket. It's a medium tone beeping that is not very loud. I think I have heard it before some time in the past 13 years. ???

I just started it up after it sat WITH the battery hooked up last night (needed power to lock the car). CEL came on, beeping after they key was fully removed. ??

 

If you are addressing me...the answer is yes.

 

Quick update. After leaving the battery disconnected overnight from a NON-CEL start yesterday, I hooked up and started the car to put it in the garage. Easy start, NO CEL, ABS light flashed and then stayed on, and NO BEEPING WHEN I REMOVED THE KEY. So, it sits awaiting my attention.

 

A fellow forum member (BIG THANKS TO "BOBROY") came to my house with his scanner(s). He has multiple Jags and said the better one (iCarsoft) normally reads Jag "C" codes.....but nothing in the "C" class showed up. I have a list of what he read, and some of them are totally strange to me. The P1637 still shows up after a RE-start from running after a disconnected battery makes it go away.

B1202
U1260
U1261
P1798
P1799
U1135
U1041
P20EE
B1595.

I am going to put up a pic of my instrument panel as soon as I can get it out of my phone and onto this site.

 

You had mentioned in an another thread that you test these modules when replacing them with another used module by connecting it to the wiring in the car without removing the inoperative module. Do you detach the multi-pin connector and power connection from/to the pump? Do you pull it out to where it reaches near the fender as you described? What about that very short connection to the pump? How do you reach anything with that.....or do you even need it to test the module? Do you have any pics?

 

FINALLY! SUCCESS.....great news and bad news:

My module has been saved by Module Repair Inc, Van Nuys, CA. $100 plus shipping both ways, but it was worth it. I don't know exactly what they did, but everything works now. NO MORE IDIOT LIGHTS. No "WRONG PART INSTALLED" messages. No DTCs. I cleared whatever codes might have been there from before, then plugged everything in and powered up. Great! I drove around and put 34-40 miles on straight and very twisty roads at various speeds. Speedo/ODO works again. So, I should be rejoicing, right?

Well, almost. My power steering had a small leak for many months. I tried the recommended stop leak gunk, and it seemed to work. Then, about 3/4 through my drive I could hear the steering groaning. I drove straight home on the least curvy road possible. Filled the PS reservoir with the rest of the stop-leak gunk and a bit of Trans fluid. Drove the car again, and my son called me to say I had left a puddle of PS fluid on the driveway. Parked it and checked....sure enough the reservoir was empty. WTH?? Got it back in the garage and not sure what to d next. Is there a PS fluid we are supposed to be using? Is this "recommended" PS stop-leak gunk really a PS killer? I'll go start another thread in the PS area.

 

When a connection and / or seal fails, the only way to fix it is by replacement of the faulty part. The stop leak products will swell up a seal by a few minor percentages and that may put off replacement in some few cases. But is nothing more than a bandaid put on gaping wound. Essentially they are a rip off and a waste of money.

Sorry to hear you’re having more issues, it won’t take much time to trace the source of the leak and take the appropriate action. If it was leaking for many months as reported, then it seems that action to identify the source of the leak and repair it was long overdue. There are many such potential trouble spots on these engines. One can’t be too zealous when it comes to inspections of the many hoses and lines carrying coolant, oil, ATF, and power steering fluid. As we all know, the X-100’s are brutally unforgiving of inattention.

You’ll find that mechanical problems can be much easier to diagnose than the electrical issues you’ve been saddled with lately. Fixing them may or may not be be inexpensive, but at least you’ll not be facing uncertainties.

Z

 

Apparently, I spoke too soon. The ABS was working fine, then on the test drive my PAS pump started leaking...badly. So, long story short, we replaced the pump and supply line....and had it professionally flushed. OK...everything seemed fine. I put another 80 miles or so on it (trying to get enough miles to reset the computer to pass smog). First day out was great. Thursday rain. Today, another 30-40 miles going great UNTIL I stopped to run into a model train shop and visit for a few minutes. Came out, started the car and THE CEL, ABS, AND BRAKE LIGHT WERE BACK ON! I didn't even look art the Speedo or ODO on the way home, but there's no TRAC light on. WTH???? I didn't even reach the 200 miles needed to get the smog test done.

OH....CODES: P1637 $11
P1111 $11
Both "Manufacturer Control".

WTH is "$11"?

I cleared them but they came back immediately upon just turning the key "ON". Stayed there after starting. I'll disconnect the battery tonite.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Ken

 

Don’t have the answers, but interested in knowing too.

Z

 

P1111 is the code you want to see as it's the car reporting "If DTC P1111 is stored in memory, all on-board diagnostic tests have been completed".
In theory you should pass smog, but I guess the testing station won't allow it through with the CEL from the P1637 (CAN token missing) that's reared its head again.

 

OK. Interesting because the first time my son read the codes he didn't mention the P1111, but the second reading (I don't know if he deleted the P1637 code before the second reading) showed the P1111. So...what is the "$11", and what does it mean mean??

I disconnected the battery and did a hard resent for a few hours. After reconnecting I inserted the key, turned to "on" and got the normal "light up" on the cluster. Somewhere in between all these steps I deleted the codes according to the reader. But maybe I didn't look close enough because when I started the engine the CEL went out (great if it stays out)....BUT the ABS and stupid "INCORRECT PART FITTED" light came on. WTH! I will have to drive it again to see if the ODO/SPEEDO work but I'm not seeing the "suspension control" lights....yet. Yes, the red parking brake warning light is on.
I don't even want to take it out of the garage anymore. UGH!

OK, an update is order: Just giggles I disconnected the battery and put the 10-50 charger on it. I was expecting a tiny bit of drop in this ONE year old BIG AMP 7 year battery. My charger's needle swung all the way to the center...meaning the battery was quite low. So, I let it cook at 10A for a couple of hours, the needle swung below 5A, which is normally telling me it's well-done. A voltage check gave me 13.29 V. I reconnected the battery and will check it later for any dropping.

I have been driving the car for several days, it is a 1 year old quality battery with massive capacity. The ONLY thing I did yesterday that was dumb was to leave the lights on for a few minutes while watching the trains, then driving for several miles with no glitches. MY BAD....I left the lights on again when I went into the train store for about 15minutes (I think). When I came out and started the car (started easily), all the BAD lights came on. CEL, ABS, E-brake light. Could that really have triggered the modules due to low battery charge????

 

MORE information: I talked to GINO at "ModuleRepairPros". He is the one that repaired my ABS module. First, the issue of codes: The P1637 code is not a specific problem code. It ONLY tells us that there is broken communication between the ECU and other modules. Something about CAN and some of you have talked about that. The P1111 is also not specific....just says the diagnosis is complete (as Michaelh said). But a THIRD code popped up after I disconnected the battery and did a hard discharge of the system(s). P1000 tells us that the emissions computers will NOT clear until the car is driven under normal ways for about 200 miles. That keeps drivers from just deleting the DTC code that gives us the CEL on the dash. I was trying to run off that 200 miles when I left my lights on for about 30 minutes while talking about trains. Dumb, I know. Just realized this car has NO WARNING SIGNAL for lights on. ??? Anyway, it lowered the battery voltage just enough to screw with the CAN/Module/ECU circuits. Gino says these cars....especially the 1997-1999 have such finicky electrical and module systems that a low battery just throws them into fits.

We all know a low battery can cause several problems, and that just because the car can be started doesn't mean the battery is OK. So, not only did that little drain on the battery screw with my CAN system, and set off the P1637 code, my recharge with "+" side disconnected just reset EVERYTHING.

Now I have a CEL, an ABS light, an E-brake light, and a stupid "INCORRECT PART FITTED" warning. Deleting the codes does nothing because they come right back. ABS module again? NOT SO FAST! Something that came up in discussions before, and I had my suspicions about, is the reliability and functioning of the ECU. Gino confirmed that these YM cars are almost 100% guaranteed to need an ECU fix or a new ECU. "New" doesn't exist, and dependable used units are a risk and rare. It's an easy R&R....simple compared to the ABS module or the PAS pump I just replaced....but it's gonna take another $200 + shipping for each way to get it fixed.

Anyone suspicious of repair shops might say....hmmmmm.....they are just trying to gouge me. OK....but I have had the capacitors and solder attachments from the mid 1990s fail on everything from Stereo equipment to car computer boards. "They" messed with our solder, and they imported millions of circuit board components that failed. So, at this point I think I should just send them the ECU and be done with it. Anyone disagree or have a better solution for my ongoing Christmas tree instrument cluster lights?

Don't be shy.

Ken Koester

 

I know you have replaced the battery, but I wouldn't expect 30 minutes on sidelights to cause the car to throw codes. I often have the stereo going for an hour or two without issue if I'm working on the car.

There's a green tell-tale (or should be) in the cluster when the lights are on.

Handbrake warning light doubles as low brake fluid warning, so check that.

You could pull the ECM and take a look inside:- 97 seem to be troublesome although they usually throw ignition or TB related codes when they go bad. Replacing the caps is good PM in any case, albeit a tad expensive if you have to farm the job out.

 

!- Brake fluid is full.

2- I pulled the ECM, took it to my brother and his shop. He opened it up and I have to say this Denso ECM is the most immaculate circuit board system I have ever seen. Beautifully crafted and tightly laid out. We couldn't find any physical evidence of breakdown or leakage anywhere. But of course, that doesn't mean something couldn't be wrong with some part of it. There are hundreds of resistors and almost as many tiny capacitors and transistors. "Tiny" is the operative word.

It puzzles me though, that I would have the exact same symptoms as before, and the repair of the ABS module had solved the problem entirely. How would that have been the ECM if the repair of the module fixed the problem? The fact that the P1637 code means a loss of communication in the CAN might mean the harness between the module and the ECM is somehow intermittent. But even that wouldn't explain several months of code and light free driving.

My son, wife, and brother think I should pull out the ABS module and send it along with the ECM. If it's the ECM, fine (if it can be fixed). If the ECM is OK, I don't want it to be sent back and I still have the problem....and then have to send the module. The only problem with this plan is how much I hated taking that thing out and reinstalling it.

Is there any way to test the module or the ECM for general functioning either in the car or out? It seems like the principle of signal in has to create signal out should have a way to test that. Of course, it's a Jaguar so I must be dreaming.

Ken

 

I too was pleasantly surprised at the build quality of the Denso ECM and can see some of the cost in its manufacture.

Electrolytics can and do fail without showing any external signs of distress. The electrolyte dries out over the years, changing the cap's electrical characteristics.

If these haven't already been replaced with equivalent-quality components in your ECM (your brother should be able to tell) then you will do no harm in replacing them, other than the potential effect on your wallet.

There is no guarantee that this service will correct your issue, although I consider it to be worthwhile PM.


To run full diagnostics on a module would require access to proprietary hardware and information that is unlikely to be made available by the manufacturer. There is much complexity in the ECM so there would be many tests, which would normally be automated.

Also, never underestimate the ability of intermittent faults to lull you into a false sense of security

 

Thanks. Now that you mention it, both the P1637 and P1111 codes I initially got were followed by "Manufacturer Control". I did not get that during my previous round of scans and repairs. They are also followed by "$11". What does $11 mean?

My next move here is to reconnect the ECU and do another scan with the new Autel M619 scanner that also does ABS/SRS codes. I'd like to see if I get any chassis codes. Should be 20-30 minutes well spent.

Ken

 

P1xxx codes are manufacturer-specific, so a fault description from a 'generic' code reader may be inaccurate, and is best disregarded. For instance, P1637 on a Chevrolet may be a generator fault. The raw code itself is the information you need.

I suspect that the 'manufacturer control' message from your reader alludes to that. I can't help with the '$11' - there may or may not be an explanantion buried in the OBD tool's manual somewhere?

I do sympathise:- there are occasions when just being able to swop out with 'known good' can save a lot of grief, as Mad Hatter notes in his thread.

 

THE LATEST!

I sent the ECU off to Module Repair Pros. They went through it, got it back, hooked it up, reconnected the fully charged battery....SAME LIGHTS AND CODES.

QUESTIONS: 1- I only turned the key on and off and on, then started the car several times. The P1637 and P1000 codes are still there. I have NOT driven the car. I have seen so many posts telling me to clear the codes, not clear the codes, disconnect the battery, don't disconnect the battery, etc.
I can drive the car if that is the key to clearing the DTCs. I have cleared them with a good scanner, but I think it doesn't really get them out of the memory until it reads that the problem is corrected. Is that right? And, that takes driving the car through its "drive cycle", correct?

So, the last 2 times I have had to reset the emissions sensors, I had to drive about 200 miles. That's what I was trying to do when it all failed again a couple of months ago. I got up to about 150 miles and POOF! Does than mean the codes were still counting up again and it blew up because of too many
"failure" impulses? I think those are "Pending Codes", right?

So, is my next step to drive the car to see if the ABS, CE, and Brake lights go out? I think that doesn't take very many miles....but I still don't have a 2022 tag on the license.

Ken