Guys,

I have a bad, bad front main seal leak, and I'm taking it in next week. I'm at 102K and pretty sure upper tensioners have not been done. I've read a few different things on the forum, but an confused as to whether I just need to replace the tensioners, or should I replace the chains as well. I found an "upper timing chain replacement kit" for $250 that has the chains as well. But, if not needed, and if it adds to the complexity of the job, I may stay clear of. Thanks for the input.

 

The secondary tensioners are the only must do.

However, with your mileage, if you plan to keep the car for a long time, and with the fact that you are paying for some of the front dissassembly to do the seal anyway, you might want to consider and get a quote for not only the secondary chains, but also the primary tensioners, chains and guides.

 

Gotcha....it's just going to come down to $$ I guess. $200 worth of tensioner and seal parts versus the whole kit for $750, plus 8 hours of labor versus whatever more on top of that. I'm actually selling the car soon, and don't want the next person to have stuff to deal with. The oil leak is bad, hence the reason to open it up in the first place. I may have to just bite the bullet and get the whole job done. Thanks for the input.

 

One last thing - if the entire timing chain & tensioners job is going to be done, should I go ahead and pay $75 and rent the tools, or suggest that my mechanic use the "zip tie" method? I'm sure he's do either, but does it matter since I'm having him do the entire job versus just the upper tensioners?

 

If you are doing the entire job you should rent the tools.

A couple of people have discussed alternative clever ways of doing the chains, but in my mind they are unproven.

The zip-tie method for the just the secondary tensioners has been vetted enough that I think it is relatively safe if done properly.

 

+1 on using the tool kit. The zip tie method is just for the secondary tensioner replacement only.

There're pages on this forum showing every step to replace all tensioners. Pulling all the chains off the front end of the engine is a pretty big job--not for most shade tree mechanics. But, many on this forum have done it.

Remember that you will also have to get your hands on a special puller that's beefed up enough to get the bottom pulley off the crankshaft. I assume that's where your seal problem is.

 

Thanks - I guess I will run all of this by my mechanic who has agreed to take on the job. I appreciate the input and will go over all these things before I drop it off to ensure he is comfortable with the job.

 

Good rule-of-thumb might be that the secondary chains need replacing if they have been stretched or otherwise abused as part of a secondary tensioner problem. But not otherwise. Unless there has been some problem, I'd be comfortable leaving the primaries alone.

The job would get significantly more complex changing the secondary chains in that the primary chains would then have to come off too.

That is unless this kit involves a chain with what used to be called a "monkey link" ... one that opens. I recall seeing some of these on the market. If so I'd stay away.

 

So if I understand you correctly, you're suggesting I should definitely replace the upper secondary tensioners (along with seals, etc) and just have him "inspect" the timing chains and primary tensioners and guides, and only replace those if necessary?

 

Not sure if your last post was for me but if so, yes, that's about what I'd do if it were my car.

In the five years or so I've been reading posts about these cars, I can't recall any cases of primary chain or tensioner failure. Secondaries ... not so good. Many tensioner failures, and chains have been taken out at the same time. Off hand, can't think of a case where a secondary chain failed absent a tensioner failure.

Good luck, whatever approach you land on.

 

I'm thinking you want to be able to tell the next owner that the work has been done, not that the work has been done half-assed. There is a difference. Yes, chains do stretch, guides do crack. How long will they go before causing a problem? Who knows? As a professional mechanic I would never recommend doing half a job because, even under the guise of saving the customer a few bucks, it will almost always come back to bite me in the butt. I figure if you're considering it at all, you're wanting to do the job right.

 

Well, you are correct in that I want to do what needs to be done and get it done right. That said, the main reason I'm doing this is b/c I have a bad timing cover seal leak, which is my first problem to address. While I'm having my mechanic do that job (he's not a Jag mechanic, but very reputable as a general auto technician) I figure it's at least worth the extra $150 in parts (plus labor) to do the tensioners. Or, the entire kit would cost an extra $600 or so, plus additional labor, so figuring I'm upward of an extra $1,000 or more if I go deeper, and from what most are commenting on here, it seems people don't even touch the lower tensioners/guides, etc. So, yes, I want to do the job right so that the car lasts (for myself or the next owner) but need to weigh the costs of what I should definitely be doing versus the additional costs of what I "could" do as precautionary steps. I do appreciate the input! Tough choice and may come down to finances.