Replace Valve cover gasket on 2001 XK8
#1
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I want to replace the valve cover gasket on my 2001 XK8, I know I have seen the instructions with pictures on this forum. However, I cannot find them after multiple searches so can anyone PLEASE send me the links I need for this job???
I really appreciate your help, David
I really appreciate your help, David
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#3
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Its not a bad job, however, I would also suggest a few things:
1.Use brake cleaner 5 cans, to clean the inside and outside of valve covers and cylinder head surface.
2.Apply a thin layer of rtv around the entire head, as the valve covers are warped bad and flex a lot.
3. Replace the breather filter element in the valve cover, as well as replacing the sparks plugs after the proper gap is set.
4.Unclog the breather port tube on the driver side head with a safety pin or paper clip.
5.Be gentle, the connectors love to just break apart when you undo the tabs,trust me, I know.If the connector lock tab does break,simply put a little dab of rtv on the surface it connects to and slide on, then let dry, works every time.
6.Change your air filter and oil if needed, contamination in old oil breaks down gaskets.
1.Use brake cleaner 5 cans, to clean the inside and outside of valve covers and cylinder head surface.
2.Apply a thin layer of rtv around the entire head, as the valve covers are warped bad and flex a lot.
3. Replace the breather filter element in the valve cover, as well as replacing the sparks plugs after the proper gap is set.
4.Unclog the breather port tube on the driver side head with a safety pin or paper clip.
5.Be gentle, the connectors love to just break apart when you undo the tabs,trust me, I know.If the connector lock tab does break,simply put a little dab of rtv on the surface it connects to and slide on, then let dry, works every time.
6.Change your air filter and oil if needed, contamination in old oil breaks down gaskets.
The following users liked this post:
djpxk8 (03-13-2014)
#6
The following 2 users liked this post by Paul Pavlik:
djpxk8 (03-13-2014),
Spinedoc2304 (03-12-2014)
#7
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#8
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I have now finished the job, thank goodness, so far no smell of burning oil.
However, I did break the plastic pipe which connects to the purge valve?on top of the valve cover, trying to get the pipe out of the head!!!
What is the correct method of removing that pipe?? I think its called the "purge Valve" Do you just pull it out by force??
Many thanks for all your help and information for this project.
However, I did break the plastic pipe which connects to the purge valve?on top of the valve cover, trying to get the pipe out of the head!!!
What is the correct method of removing that pipe?? I think its called the "purge Valve" Do you just pull it out by force??
Many thanks for all your help and information for this project.
#9
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do not overtorque
Now which side pipe did you break?Got pics?, so we can work up a solution to repair.The BREATHER pipe lol, I have a 1998, so I guess thats what yours is, thats what mine was, and it came out with a little force applied by a pry bar carefully(driver cam cover side).
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djpxk8 (03-14-2014)
#10
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The plastic pipe I broke was on the breather vent into the Valve cover on the drivers side (see picture)
I cut a piece of plastic piping about 2 inches long and then slit it down the middle. I opened up the piping and inside on the bottom put a thick layer of epoxy resin. I then put the opened piping under the split plastic pipe to support the slit. Then I poured epoxy resin over the top to completely cover the split in the black plastic pipe.
So far everything seems to be working OK, no error numbers being thrown!
I have tried to upload a picture of the file but not sure it will show as an attachment??
I cut a piece of plastic piping about 2 inches long and then slit it down the middle. I opened up the piping and inside on the bottom put a thick layer of epoxy resin. I then put the opened piping under the split plastic pipe to support the slit. Then I poured epoxy resin over the top to completely cover the split in the black plastic pipe.
So far everything seems to be working OK, no error numbers being thrown!
I have tried to upload a picture of the file but not sure it will show as an attachment??
#11
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The plastic pipe I broke was on the breather vent into the Valve cover on the drivers side (see picture)
I cut a piece of plastic piping about 2 inches long and then slit it down the middle. I opened up the piping and inside on the bottom put a thick layer of epoxy resin. I then put the opened piping under the split plastic pipe to support the slit. Then I poured epoxy resin over the top to completely cover the split in the black plastic pipe.
So far everything seems to be working OK, no error numbers being thrown!
I have tried to upload a picture of the file but not sure it will show as an attachment??
I cut a piece of plastic piping about 2 inches long and then slit it down the middle. I opened up the piping and inside on the bottom put a thick layer of epoxy resin. I then put the opened piping under the split plastic pipe to support the slit. Then I poured epoxy resin over the top to completely cover the split in the black plastic pipe.
So far everything seems to be working OK, no error numbers being thrown!
I have tried to upload a picture of the file but not sure it will show as an attachment??
The following users liked this post:
djpxk8 (03-15-2014)
#13
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The bottom rear bolt of each valve cover is hard to remove because of the limited clearance between the bolt on the heat shielding.
I made a simple adapter tool to fit in the space where universal socket joints would not fit.
Purchase a 3/8" drill adapter with a BB detent bump- @ $2
You could use 3/8" square stock - but it won't stay in the 10mm socket
Grind down and file to fit 11mm wrench
Cut off shank - to a length of @ 7/8"
Stuff a towel under the last bolt in case the part slips off the bolt head
Once the bolt is broken free, you can use an open end wrench to turn
Could not however use a torque wrench to tighten to specs.
I made a simple adapter tool to fit in the space where universal socket joints would not fit.
Purchase a 3/8" drill adapter with a BB detent bump- @ $2
You could use 3/8" square stock - but it won't stay in the 10mm socket
Grind down and file to fit 11mm wrench
Cut off shank - to a length of @ 7/8"
Stuff a towel under the last bolt in case the part slips off the bolt head
Once the bolt is broken free, you can use an open end wrench to turn
Could not however use a torque wrench to tighten to specs.
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