Replacement oil cooler lines
#1
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The engine oil cooler on my 2002 xkr (MY03 model, 4.2) has some seepage on one corner caused by a previous owner who has presumably been attempting to level speed humps. There is also some wear evident on one of the oil cooler lines. To avoid a sudden and catastrophic oil loss, I am going to replace the oil cooler with a new one and also replace the oil cooler lines (pipes). I have read in related posts that some owners have replaced the original lines with new ones made up locally, much cheaper than the Jag parts and using more resilient stainless mesh pipes. I understand that the pipes are a fairly standard spec. Can anyone who has done this please provide me with the tech spec for the pipes and the fittings so I can check and be sure that our local hydraulic pipe makers have the wherewithal to make these pipes up. I know I could just remove the lines and take them to a pipe maker and see if they could help but it would be nice to know they have the parts before I rocked up.
#2
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The link shows my solution on repairing an oil cooler line on a xj8. The shop I got the AN fittings from didn't have the correct fittings in stock to make a direct connection. I needed to complete the repair that day and didn't have time to shop around for the direct fittings. I also included a link to Jegs for a supply of fittings and hoses. These are the lines we use on race cars and are very durable.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ck-fix-171463/
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...8YwJrWte52FpWQ
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ck-fix-171463/
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...8YwJrWte52FpWQ
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tassiejag (11-15-2016)
#3
#4
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RJ, I haven't seen the cooler line setup for the XJR or XKR. If they have regular lines that screw into the motor or if it is a tube that comes out of the motor you can proably find a fitting that will work. Then you can use the origional cooler or get a cooler like we use on race cars. They come in different sizes and shapes. I copied this photo from our site of another members idea like mine.
#5
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IDIOT ME!!!!
I forgot I got an XJR. Saw the coolant line coming out of the motor as tubes. There should be a compression fitting that will fit on those lines. I'll need to use the caliper to get the tube size and to see what AN fittings will work. Have to go to work now so I will try to make time to figure it out this afternoon.
I forgot I got an XJR. Saw the coolant line coming out of the motor as tubes. There should be a compression fitting that will fit on those lines. I'll need to use the caliper to get the tube size and to see what AN fittings will work. Have to go to work now so I will try to make time to figure it out this afternoon.
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RJ237 (11-15-2016)
#6
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There is a good write-up here for the standard parts. The hydraulics hoses fit into a recess on the engine block, and an o-rings seals the connection. It is held in place by an x-shape bracket bolted to the block.
303-50%20Engine%20Oil%20Leakage.pdf
If you look further on the forum, a member posted a picture of a U-shaped bypass that just routed the oil from the supply side directly to the return side. Might be something to consider to keep driving the car (slowly!) while you assemble whatever you need for the project...
303-50%20Engine%20Oil%20Leakage.pdf
If you look further on the forum, a member posted a picture of a U-shaped bypass that just routed the oil from the supply side directly to the return side. Might be something to consider to keep driving the car (slowly!) while you assemble whatever you need for the project...
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tassiejag (11-15-2016)
#7
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I measured the size of the tubes coming out of engine. I don't think the AN fittings will work on that size pipe. They measured 0.710". The AN fittings are for 5/8" (0.625) or 3/4" (0.750). I wouldn't suggest it to anyone until I tried it myself first. I think your best bet is to take it to a hydraulic shop and have them make a replacement hose for you. The member in the photo I posted had his lines made at a hydraulic shop.
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#8
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Lost oil pressure .. relieved to find that is wasn't a $300-$400 oil cooler that got bashed .. so probably one of the hoses. Now this TSP deals with MY 04-05, and I have an '03, but gives me an idea of what I may be dealing with, and is quite a bit more detailed than the TSP posted here .. for better or worse. Las Vegas Jaguar has ad's pop up for the hoses .. maybe you guys have other competitive sources .. please share. Cheers!
TSP 303-S846
ENGINE OIL COOLER for 2003 Jaguar XK8
TSP 303-S846
ENGINE OIL COOLER for 2003 Jaguar XK8
#9
#10
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A33455 here for my '03 XK8 .. earlier than the TSB range, but still very comprehensive. I expect there may be a TSB floating around for the '03's, and if I happen to stumble upon it, I'll post it here in this thread. The one I posted was actually found on an Australian site. Cheers!
#11
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#12
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Thanks for the input. Attaboy, the Las Vegas Jag prices are a bit .... pricey! British Parts Online can do the oil cooler for $A262 plus freight, and no GST! I think I will get the oil cooler and when doing the install take the oil pipes to a hydraulic pipe maker to see if they have the parts in stock. Worst case scenario is a week or two with no Jag if I still need to source the pipes from overseas. The Jag is not our main transport so I can afford to wait a week or 2.
On the subject of VINs relating to MY03 models, ours was constructed in September 2002, is definitely MY03 (4.2 Ltr with 6 speed ZF transmission) and the VIN is A32004 which comes well before the range the TSB relates to.
On the subject of VINs relating to MY03 models, ours was constructed in September 2002, is definitely MY03 (4.2 Ltr with 6 speed ZF transmission) and the VIN is A32004 which comes well before the range the TSB relates to.
#13
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Have you looked into having the old one repaired? From memory, it is all metal (no plastic end tank nonsense), so maybe it can be fixed for way less than replacement cost. Some old-timers in the air-conditioning business might have the necessary brazing skills for this, or at least it is worth asking around.
When it was my turn to deal with this, I only replaced the supply line off of the engine to the cooler. I take it as the high pressure side, most subject to leaks. That particular line was seeping oil where the rubber hose is crimped to the metal line. I did not want to take the risk of being stranded somewhere because of a catastrophic oil leak. I went with the Jaguar part as I only did one line out of four.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
When it was my turn to deal with this, I only replaced the supply line off of the engine to the cooler. I take it as the high pressure side, most subject to leaks. That particular line was seeping oil where the rubber hose is crimped to the metal line. I did not want to take the risk of being stranded somewhere because of a catastrophic oil leak. I went with the Jaguar part as I only did one line out of four.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
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tassiejag (11-19-2016)
#14
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Thanks for the input. Attaboy, the Las Vegas Jag prices are a bit .... pricey! British Parts Online can do the oil cooler for $A262 plus freight, and no GST! I think I will get the oil cooler and when doing the install take the oil pipes to a hydraulic pipe maker to see if they have the parts in stock. Worst case scenario is a week or two with no Jag if I still need to source the pipes from overseas. The Jag is not our main transport so I can afford to wait a week or 2.
On the subject of VINs relating to MY03 models, ours was constructed in September 2002, is definitely MY03 (4.2 Ltr with 6 speed ZF transmission) and the VIN is A32004 which comes well before the range the TSB relates to.
On the subject of VINs relating to MY03 models, ours was constructed in September 2002, is definitely MY03 (4.2 Ltr with 6 speed ZF transmission) and the VIN is A32004 which comes well before the range the TSB relates to.
And as with you, I too have an alternative transport, but it's an F-350 used for very looong lumber stock/pipes, or for hauling a 6x10 dump trailer. My '97 was a dream to drive .. the '99 is a struggle. I'm just guessing that most of us in this forum, do indeed have an alternative for transpo .. while our Jag's are down .. for whatever reason. Thanks for the heads up on the oil cooler pricing. Fortunately, mine was intact .. but the lines coming to/from the engine were apparently the area of failure. Was $229.58 including shipping for the two "engine" lines. Cheers!
Jon in the woods
mendorailhistory.org
#15
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You can fill your boots with TSB's at Gus's site XK8/XKR TSBs
Now, I just gotta share. I think I may see a tiny bit of the bottom of the bolt that holds the clamp securing the two hoses into the bottom of the engine block with that "X" clamp thing .. but I'm not really sure. If I was in the City, I'd just have her towed in and fixed, but the nearest Jag mechanic is apparently 160 miles South.
Briefly off-topic. I have a wizard diesel mechanic up here, but he hates to work on my Yanmar powered Komatsu's .. I have three. Even Finding the bolt .. that holds the "X" clamp on an XK8 is similar to my WA30 ... so .. I get that. So I ran into him a few weeks ago at our NAPA .. asked him .. do you have a protege .. he sad No. "These kids nowadays, you ask them to clean out the bellypan of a D6, and they just aren't interested." A "bellypan" cleanout is "kinda" similar to an apprentice in a steam engine locomotive facility 50 to 130 years ago, only a whole lot less miserable.
Fine .. a gifted apprentice is worth $20-$30 an hour .. or go flip your burgers for $10/hr .. if you're lucky. My diesel guy is $80 an hour .. worth every penny. What's wrong with these "kids" these days .. $60k in student debt with a B.A. in French Art History .. or what ever. I truly love how this forum is basically apolitical, but my brief departure from topic does indeed speak to a need for us "seasoned" persons to not leave without .. sharing.
Any tips on the oil line change-out will be sincerely appreciated .. as noted above, the 2000 MY and 2004 MY TSB's are not being all that helpful for the 2003 MY. If you are in Mendocino County California and can get this done, please don't hesitate to PM me. I'll be 70 next week, and as you too will find, the mind works faster than the body .. always .. the human condition. Cheers!
Jon in the woods
mendorailhistory.org
#16
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Well Attaboy/Jon in the woods, you made me smile. We have a fella in our local Jag club who likes to lecture on the difference between auto technicians (who rely on the computer diagnostics and replacing stuff) and mechanics who fix things!
I ordered my oil cooler from British Parts Online on 23 Nov and collected it from the local post office yesterday 2 December. Not bad delivery times and only $A309 including P&P. I have had a good look at my cooler lines and there is no seepage from either and the "scrapes" are minor. All the oil seepage is clearly coming from the oil cooler damage. So, I am going to replace the cooler and risk reusing the existing lines with new 'o' rings. Having looked at the new cooler and how the lines attach I think I agree with you Attaboy that these lines will be very hard to replicate. I will take some photos so others can see how the lines fit into the cooler.
I ordered my oil cooler from British Parts Online on 23 Nov and collected it from the local post office yesterday 2 December. Not bad delivery times and only $A309 including P&P. I have had a good look at my cooler lines and there is no seepage from either and the "scrapes" are minor. All the oil seepage is clearly coming from the oil cooler damage. So, I am going to replace the cooler and risk reusing the existing lines with new 'o' rings. Having looked at the new cooler and how the lines attach I think I agree with you Attaboy that these lines will be very hard to replicate. I will take some photos so others can see how the lines fit into the cooler.
#17
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The job is not hard. The bolt can be seen from the bottom, with the front of the car on ramps, with a mechanic's mirror. Or you can just reach in there with a socket on a (short) extension, and undo it by feel. Don't overthink it.
The bottom plastic surround pan has to come off (a bunch of screws, nothing special) so you can reach the line connections. Each connection is just a single bolt (10mm?). The seal is done with o-rings. Somehow, each new line comes with just one o-ring, so have a second one handy if need be. I used one from a Harbor Freight kit I had lying around. With the front of the car up on ramps, you only have a bit of a drip of oil from inside the line. There is no need to drain the engine oil. From memory, the whole thing took less than a couple of hours.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
#18
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I also only replaced the one line off of the engine, pressure side... I found it very challenging. Very tight spacing, with the stabilizer bar right in the way. I found, eventually, a piece of cardboard with a leg folded to hang over the lines at the bottom of the radiator saved many cuts on my hands from the clips that hold the lines in place. Everything was done by feel because it is almost impossible to see into that area. Lost less than a quart of oil with the car on ramps. Oh, don't forget to remove the protective cap off the engine side on re-assembly - you probably won't be able to see it and may forget. Good luck.
#19
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#20
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Anyone ever try this? Looks like a great solution for seeping low pressure lines like the oil cooler and power steering:
DIY- Crimped Hose repair/replacement (Power steering, Oil Cooler, auto trans) - R3VLimited Forums
DIY- Crimped Hose repair/replacement (Power steering, Oil Cooler, auto trans) - R3VLimited Forums
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plums (01-17-2017)