Replacing front shocks?
#1
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Well, it's getting closer to the day when the new parts for the front shock replacement arrive and I have watched all the video and read all the help and how to threads and what a great help.
My question is, do I need to remove the top "A" arm to extract the shock tower?
Looks like lots of room to get it out, I see it might save getting a knuckle busted by removing it. I have two cars to do and not being required to get the long bolt and shims out could save a bunch of time.
Has anyone got a close count on the assembly fluid required?? (Coors). Be sure and figure for one or two and should I keep women and children away because of bad words.
Thanks, Wayne
My question is, do I need to remove the top "A" arm to extract the shock tower?
Looks like lots of room to get it out, I see it might save getting a knuckle busted by removing it. I have two cars to do and not being required to get the long bolt and shims out could save a bunch of time.
Has anyone got a close count on the assembly fluid required?? (Coors). Be sure and figure for one or two and should I keep women and children away because of bad words.
Thanks, Wayne
#2
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You need to remove the upper arm. If your car has some rust issues it may be difficult, but most of the problems seem to issue from the north and the Brits where road salt is encountered. I don't know if Coors is going to help, I prefer Sweetwater IPA, but only after the work is done, it's strong stuff.
Are you also replacing the upper shock mounts? If original they must be due.
Are you also replacing the upper shock mounts? If original they must be due.
#3
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+1 on RJ's suggestion, while your at it good time to check control arm bushings, ball joints, end links, etc. Shocks should be a six pack project, maybe a 12 or more if friends help!! Remember, you will need a spring compressor to disassemble the shock from mount and spring. Good luck on your project
Cheers,
BK
Cheers,
BK
#4
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OK,OK, Not the answer I wanted to hear, but the one I needed, so thank you, and yes doing the whole thing and warned my friend his car my be out of service for a few days if I find any problems.We really just started out going to do the top mount on both cars, now I know I must go over all components.
His car only has 36K and on a 2002 you can't believe how much his upper mount has gone, his shocks should be good, but will check out the bottom bushing. Mine is a 2000 with 65K, so a chance more areas to be concerned.
BK, I have the spring compressor, but better yet I have a Press and am making a cage today. Finding the right metal pipe to fit over the bottom, which will be on the top part of the press and will drill a hole in it to run through the bottom mount, that should give me a fair chance at being safe. The wife was going to up the insurance until she realized what I was building.
Again Thanks, Wayne
His car only has 36K and on a 2002 you can't believe how much his upper mount has gone, his shocks should be good, but will check out the bottom bushing. Mine is a 2000 with 65K, so a chance more areas to be concerned.
BK, I have the spring compressor, but better yet I have a Press and am making a cage today. Finding the right metal pipe to fit over the bottom, which will be on the top part of the press and will drill a hole in it to run through the bottom mount, that should give me a fair chance at being safe. The wife was going to up the insurance until she realized what I was building.
Again Thanks, Wayne
Last edited by cjd777; 04-14-2014 at 12:39 PM. Reason: adding
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JimC64 (04-14-2014)
#5
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My unsolicited advice is to replace the lot while you're there. Upper and lower A arm bushings seem to be a common weak point with our cars. The lower shock bushing is a trouble spot; cheaper to replace with a new shock. If you guys are keeping your cars, go for it. There is a choice of poly vs. rubber that you may want to research.
#6
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Mike, You are right and I will replace any or all with Poly that needs it. Here is the kicker. I'm retired and nearing 74 and am the luckiest guy around, and a few close calls but have all under control and love working on cars, plus a large assortment of tools. Trying to get a 2 post lift out of the wife for our 52nd anniversary next month.
If we get it all back and something is wrong, just take it apart again. I put never seize on most parts and will properly lay a thin layer on any poly parts.
Any Pro or Con on that.
Wayne
If we get it all back and something is wrong, just take it apart again. I put never seize on most parts and will properly lay a thin layer on any poly parts.
Any Pro or Con on that.
Wayne
#7
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Sounds like you've got all under control Wayne. I am just finishing a complete suspension refurb on my Cat. Powerflex bushes were my choice, they include a small packet of "silicone grease" with each kit. They install easily and that should eliminate any squeak polys could have if installed dry. +1 on the press, I plan on purchasing a 12 ton myself. Now regarding the post lift, hope the wife is on board, now you've given me "lift envy",....lol
BK
BK
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#8
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I would hesitate to use never-seize compounds on bolts that need to stay together. Spark plugs, alloy wheels fine.....brake, suspension, and engine bolts, no unless a manual calls for it. If you're looking for corrosion control on the suspension bolts, I'd be more inclined to use blue Loctite. You'll get a film between parts so they don't rust together, but the bolts won't back out by themselves either. Anti-seize also affects torque values on reassembly.
Congrats on the 52 yrs! (what are you going to get your wife?)
Congrats on the 52 yrs! (what are you going to get your wife?)
Last edited by mike66; 04-15-2014 at 11:11 AM.
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cjd777 (04-16-2014)
#9
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STOP **************************************************
I removed my front shocks/springs with the top A arm still on the car.
I had split the top ball joint from the hub carrier, the shock then easily lifted out.
************************************************** *****
I removed my front shocks/springs with the top A arm still on the car.
I had split the top ball joint from the hub carrier, the shock then easily lifted out.
************************************************** *****
Last edited by RaceDiagnostics; 04-15-2014 at 01:39 PM.
#10
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Mike, I see your point but was only going to put it on the outer surface and shaft will be more careful now that you bought up this concern.
I have worked on a few BMW;s that everything was frozen solid, guess it was the salt reacting with the aluminum.
On the wife, well not lately, sorry the mind wonders, been trying to get her in a Jaguar XK8 or a BMW M3 for years, but she loves her Jeep. Might take off to the beach for a few days. Surely the weather will be better in a couple of weeks, tee shirt yesterday and, 29F this morning, going to be cold on the golf course. Oh well, I did wake up, so not all bad.
Race, You made my day, I thought it looked like it might come out and just taking the ball joint out is much better, being careful not to rip the rubber, if the two hammer trick won"t work. Should be easier to check the upper "A" arm bushings play also.
Speaking of the upper bushings, where is the best place to get the Poly set for the "A" arm? I did a quick check and the normal suspects didn't even list any kind, what am I missing here, not called "A" arm bushing?
Thanks for the help and which directions to take.
Wayne
I have worked on a few BMW;s that everything was frozen solid, guess it was the salt reacting with the aluminum.
On the wife, well not lately, sorry the mind wonders, been trying to get her in a Jaguar XK8 or a BMW M3 for years, but she loves her Jeep. Might take off to the beach for a few days. Surely the weather will be better in a couple of weeks, tee shirt yesterday and, 29F this morning, going to be cold on the golf course. Oh well, I did wake up, so not all bad.
Race, You made my day, I thought it looked like it might come out and just taking the ball joint out is much better, being careful not to rip the rubber, if the two hammer trick won"t work. Should be easier to check the upper "A" arm bushings play also.
Speaking of the upper bushings, where is the best place to get the Poly set for the "A" arm? I did a quick check and the normal suspects didn't even list any kind, what am I missing here, not called "A" arm bushing?
Thanks for the help and which directions to take.
Wayne
#11
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Wayne, you're way ahead of me and obviously very experienced. I would do the same with all but the threads. I think you can find the bushings by searching for "powerflex bushing".
http://powerflexusa.com/xk8-xk8r1997.aspx
http://powerflexusa.com/xk8-xk8r1997.aspx
#14
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BK, I got some parts in today and friend said he would like to have the car over the weekend holiday, family coming in and the boys want to drive it. I told him no problem and to take it easy. He's going out of town next week, so I will have all week to play and see what I need.
I'm not doing mine for the same reason, going to enjoy what looks to be a great weekend of touring.
These bushing are only in Virginia, so I should be able to get them in a couple of days.
Wayne
I'm not doing mine for the same reason, going to enjoy what looks to be a great weekend of touring.
These bushing are only in Virginia, so I should be able to get them in a couple of days.
Wayne
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