Replacing ZF6HP26
#1
Replacing ZF6HP26
Hi,
I am about to drop my rear suspension in order to replace bushings and install a new front seal…since my transmission has been acting ‘wonky’ for a while I was considering replacing it while the car is out of service.
I have seen several non x100 jaguars for sale locally for semi small change with low mileage (45~65K miles) on them. I was wondering if I could install a zf6hp26 transmission from one of them while using my mechtronic unit…is this feasible? They are 4.2 na engined I was thinking the only possible difference would be the valve body, torque converter and mechtronic. I would rebuild the valvebody prior to installation so...what say those that know?
Is this a reasonable approach or not?
wj
wj
I am about to drop my rear suspension in order to replace bushings and install a new front seal…since my transmission has been acting ‘wonky’ for a while I was considering replacing it while the car is out of service.
I have seen several non x100 jaguars for sale locally for semi small change with low mileage (45~65K miles) on them. I was wondering if I could install a zf6hp26 transmission from one of them while using my mechtronic unit…is this feasible? They are 4.2 na engined I was thinking the only possible difference would be the valve body, torque converter and mechtronic. I would rebuild the valvebody prior to installation so...what say those that know?
Is this a reasonable approach or not?
wj
wj
Last edited by GGG; 02-26-2021 at 07:34 AM.
#2
To my knowledge all 6HP26s are the same (excepting the Aston Martin one that is the same internals with a different casing). I do not think there are any differences in the valves or mechatronic, although I do believe there are a few minor revisions of the mechatronic over the years.
Assuming the torque converter and output shaft physical connection are the same (they most likely are), my guess is that you could simply install the the transmission and program it to the car. Using your old mechatronic would avoid the programming step and maybe that is your intent.
Assuming the torque converter and output shaft physical connection are the same (they most likely are), my guess is that you could simply install the the transmission and program it to the car. Using your old mechatronic would avoid the programming step and maybe that is your intent.
#3
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khlee (02-25-2021)
#4
Unfortunately, that is becoming difficult, as the dealers are either unable or unwilling to service these "old" cars.Mine has a slight hesitation from first to second, but I have learned to live with it. When you say clear the TCM and perform the drive cycle, is this something that can be done without the factory software?
#5
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#8
THANKS EVERYONE!
I had replaced the valve body connector sleeve and 4 tubes + mechtronic sealing sleeve, new pan/filter and of course new fluid (sp)
The first drive was just fine, I didn't push it but everything felt great.
The second drive I noticed some jerking during both upshifts and down shifts.
The third drive and it is banging into 1st coming to stop and all shift points are skewed...
I purchased a foxwell nt530 several months ago in order to rest the adaptations but haven't as yet. I will do that and see if things improve. My gut is telling me that the tcc/ clutch pack is having serious issues and since I'll be ripping the poor thing apart for other repairs I'd rather handle the issue with a lower mileage unit. My car has 140k miles on its clock, thinking a 50K tranny would be a better solution than 'patching a 140K mile unit.
wj
I had replaced the valve body connector sleeve and 4 tubes + mechtronic sealing sleeve, new pan/filter and of course new fluid (sp)
The first drive was just fine, I didn't push it but everything felt great.
The second drive I noticed some jerking during both upshifts and down shifts.
The third drive and it is banging into 1st coming to stop and all shift points are skewed...
I purchased a foxwell nt530 several months ago in order to rest the adaptations but haven't as yet. I will do that and see if things improve. My gut is telling me that the tcc/ clutch pack is having serious issues and since I'll be ripping the poor thing apart for other repairs I'd rather handle the issue with a lower mileage unit. My car has 140k miles on its clock, thinking a 50K tranny would be a better solution than 'patching a 140K mile unit.
wj
#9
Clearing and re-doing the adaptations can definitely help with shift quality and I would highly recommend it if you have replaced all those seals. The other thing to check is the fluid level. The procedure to fill it properly is fiddly and these transmissions can be pretty sensitive to the fluid level.
The 2-1 lurch seems to be "normal" for the 6HP and even the adaptations never entirely got rid of it in my case.
The 2-1 lurch seems to be "normal" for the 6HP and even the adaptations never entirely got rid of it in my case.
#10
Welp……..
I crawled under the car planning on checking the fluid level but see that I have a serious front seal leak.
I had noticed this leak when I was replacing the valve body seal last month but after I filled it up and it ran for a few miles the leak diminished to a drip or two.
The leak is now significant.
The car is parked until I decide which way to go with the repair. Does anyone know what a shop would charge to r&r a transmission in this car?
I am not looking forward to doing this myself on the ground (no lift) but will if I cannot justify the r&r cost.
wj
I crawled under the car planning on checking the fluid level but see that I have a serious front seal leak.
I had noticed this leak when I was replacing the valve body seal last month but after I filled it up and it ran for a few miles the leak diminished to a drip or two.
The leak is now significant.
The car is parked until I decide which way to go with the repair. Does anyone know what a shop would charge to r&r a transmission in this car?
I am not looking forward to doing this myself on the ground (no lift) but will if I cannot justify the r&r cost.
wj
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