Operating the top one last time to replace the hose is a good idea if it works for you. Operating the roof manually is not a problem just do not force the roof open with your hands. As for the latch, yes it has been a problem on other cars. The latch has the same price tag as the hoses (I find it hard to believe bit it is true). If you are concerned that the latch is the problem you will know it when you open the header. I purchased the latch and had it on hand when I began the job knowing I could return it if I did not use it. I did replace it because the seal was dislodged and we had not identified that the pressure on the system to be the problem. Now that you have the pressure relief valve installed your pressure should not be a problem and replacing the latch is up to you.

 

1 quick question. After replacing the hoses I can hear air trapped in the latch when you either open or close the top. It still works but it takes a few try's to get the latch closed and the rear windows up. I increased the pressure on the valve by 1/2 turn and this did help. Question is and I don't remember if I read it somewhere but do I have to bleed the lines at the latch? Everything did work normal with the relief valve prior to changing the hoses.

 

I have been told that the system will self bleed and this is a process that everyone has been going by. I would operate the roof several times to get the air out before you make any serious adjustments.

 

I just wanted to note:

The replacement hose kit from Coliflower installed beautifully. Labor for installation at my shop was $1000 and the mechanic said the kit installed with no problems and that he really liked the new kit.

On a side note, I think we figured out why the Jag hoses are failing. It seems that the hose tweaks on the last tightening turn, enough to where there is extra stress right at the edge of the collar, and this twisting force along with heat and pressure causes the hose to fail mostly at that joint. We had two different failed hoses, mine and another from an early MY and both show a slight twist causing a bulge on the braided fabric at the point of failure. So it seems this allows for slightly more expansion on the outer skin, along with heat, causes it to deteriorate and flake apart... He also has not had a XK hose replacement come back with a repeat failure and he thinks it's because he is overly cautious when tightening this hose down at the latch base... Of course, this is speculative...

 

Thanks for the reply Gus. I have operated it more than a dozen cycles and still hear trapped air. I will take the 1/2 turn back out of the regulator once i hear the air gone. Top today has been working good. Thanks

 

SSBN 599 USS Patrick Henry. What were you on?

 

Hey fellow convertible owners, guess who just got around to getting their relief valve installed. Now, before you go too hard on me, remember, the dealer did the entire hose replacement a few years ago, so I wasn't in any immediate danger from a latch/hose failure. My rams are both new also during that same time period...all taken care of under select warranty. I figured that if I was going to keep the car for many more years, perhaps pass it down to a family member later, or even if I do sell it, the valve will add value and make it easier to sell...because the high mileage won't be key point.

Anyway, today I tackled the pump, got it removed, and following Walt's very good instructions, attempted the plug removal with a torx30 bit. I even reinstalled the pump and screwed it down to get some better leverage and control over my torque...and wouldn't you know it, I sheared my craftsman torx bit off inside the plug head.



So, I dismantled all of the hoses, and I'm going to take the pump to a machine shop to have it removed and another plug placed into it...retapped if necessary. I have no idea if this could have been prevented if the lines were removed and the pump was secured in a vice, then go at this plug. I'm sure an air gun with some 'impact' ability would have had better luck breaking free this loctite-secured plug. I hope the rest is easier.

 

We have had others with the same problem; however, two were resolved by remounting the pump and trying it again. The one that would not come loose was taken to a machine shop, sorry it did it to you.

 

I was lucky. I did the LSI valve install on 2 different pumps--the original one that came with the car and a replacement that was installed after the original one died. In both cases removing the culprit torx plug was not all that difficult with the pump lying in the trunk area and using a 3/8" ratchet wrench with the torx 30 socket. I found just by applying strong but steady pressure the plug loosened and came right out.

Doug

 

H2OBoy,

I am the one who had the same exact issue. See this thread...

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...f-valve-50270/

post #1 for the problem. Posts #21 and #38 for the "solution".

The guy at the machine shop was very good. He was able to remove the stuck end of the torx bit, but it left no good way to remove the plug. The female torx portion of the plug was destroyed. I watched him as he used a reversing bit. Centered it perfectly over the plug. Applied some heat with a torch. Lowered the reversing bit into the plug. It came right out. If the reversing bit had been ANY larger in diameter it would have stripped the threads in the pump. If he had gone ANY deeper into the pump with the reversing bit he would have drilled into the pump. He was good. A little lucky too I think.

He removed the fluid reservoir on the pump to make it easier to work on.

When he was done I installed the pressure reducing kit. It has been almost a year now and everything works fine.

Interesting that the tool you used was Craftsman. I think I remember people suggesting that I must have been using some kind of cheap Chinese manufactured tool to get it to shear like that.

I think the instructions for installation have been modified to caution you about this problem. Not sure, but I think they tell you to return it if the plug is too hard to remove. I think that plug is sealed with locktite red. Not designed to ever come out.

Also, this is another opportunity to give kudos to Gus. He helped me several times as I worked through this problem. Several PMs. Several telephone calls. I was, and am, very appreciative. I appreciate Walt for designing and selling it.

I think this valve is very good. Like I said, after a year of use all is good. I do not think having it will eliminate the problem. I think it will extend the period between "green shower" episodes. The top is just a bad design that this thing helps to mitigate. My installation was a nightmare. I had visions of having to buy a new $2,000 pump.

Jack

 

I was able to get the plug off by repeatedly using the torch bit and backing off each time which seemed to break the loctite down. An impact wrench could shear the bit off too. Some folks have suggested heating the plug.

Regarding the rest of the install, the new line will be a snug fit so you may have to gently tap the existing hose termination to get it to fit - see Gus's and others notes. Otherwise it's easy. The hardest part for me was to get the pump back in over the triple deck - I had to insert the whole assembly end first, up into the wheel hollow and then sideways onto the bracket. It takes some aggressive pushing (the hoses are pretty tough so they will take the pushing around).

 

Matt,

How did you make out?

 

Well, the machine shop failed to get torx piece out of the plug plus they couldn't drill it out. I'm out of ideas. Plug head is a mess now. Looks like my car doesn't get a new relief valve. Walt, this one is coming back next week.

 

Matt,

Sorry to hear this, I thought for sure that a machine shop would be capable of getting the plug out.

 

Yah, I'm bummed too. I considered opening it up to anyone here for a stab at it, ship it to them, but knowing what a replacement costs, I doubt anyone would want to risk it themselves (or via their 'shop') Once that tox bit got twisted in there, drilling through it is impossible.

I know it is more trouble, but if anyone gets the relief valve installed in the future, for the best control, I recommend (and wish I would have) just removed the entire thing from the boot and did it on the workbench. Perhaps my angle was a bit off on the ratchet, maybe a bit of heat before I tried to break it looks makes all the difference. I will sadly, never know.

 

I also fitted this valve, and fortunately did not have the problems experienced by H20Boy and BlkCat. It was easy to fit. However, since installing the device on two or three occasions the hood has not opened properly - it unlatches, then sits there. In order to get it to open I either have to re-close/re-open two or three times, or push the hood up and back with my hand - not very sophisticated!

Any idea what is going on, here? The hydraulic fluid is at the correct level - 2002 XKR 4.2 (2003 design).

 

Since this problem started when you installed the valve, it is probable that your top needs more hydraulic pressure to operated properly than most. The device is spilling pressure above the level needed to close most tops. You can increase the pressure your device allows. There is a screw you can adjust. I am pretty sure it is covered in the instructions.

If it were my car, I would increase the pressure little by little until the top operated properly. Increasing the pressure diminishes the benefit of the device. But if the top is not going to work properly ...

This begs the question of why your top needs more pressure. Sounds like something is either not working properly, or there is some friction causing binding somewhere.

Jack

 

I had noticed on several occasions that my roof operation will hesitate but I am finding it is consistent with colder temperatures and low fluid. The majority of the miss operation were related to low fluid and I found the cause to be my right lift. I notices that your MY car is a 2002 so I would say you have the correct fluid in the system. Check your fluid level first, changing the pressure on the valve is an option but I would do a little checking first. Keep in mind that the viscosity of the fluid will change with the ambient temperature. I hope this helps.

 

H2Oboy I'm sorry your plug was so tough. We will of course refund your money when the valve is returned. Call or email to work out the details.

I was struck by the fact that the plug was stronger than your tool bit. That plug is made from some good stuff. There have been a small number that have done this, 4 that I know of. To others reading this, if the plug doesn't come with normal torque then don't try to force it. I have no idea why a small number do this but I suspect it has to do with a steel part in an aluminum body.

I have a specialty heat gun that was originally sold as a plastic welder (by Harbor Freight) but it is really handy for directed heating as the nozzle is about 1/4 inch diameter. The temperature is adjustable and I did some coarse calibration with an IR thermometer so I can set (approximately) various temperatures. It would be a good experiment to use this in heating the aluminum around that plug. This would serve the dual purposes of expanding the aluminum and softening the red Locktite. It could be that the threads were crossed at initial install (with a power driver) which would render any removal efforts useless as it is effectively welded in place.

BlkCat, the critical question with your hanging roof is whether the pump is on when it hangs. On opening the latch circuit is active until the switches tell the controller that the roof is free. Then the controller should switch to the lift circuit to bring the top down. This involves switching the solenoids and pump direction. If this doesn't happen then the fault is likely with one of the switches not operating reliably. If your pump is running then the problem is elsewhere. In any case the pressure levels for the roof going down are not high so I don't think your problem is due to low pressure unless your fluid level is low and the pump is sucking air. The relief valve only operates on the latch circuit because this is where the controller holds the pump on for the extra 1-2 seconds, so it is very unlikely that the valve has anything to do with your current problem.

 

Walt, It is Diddion's top acting up. Mine is working OK.

Jack