The mounting is probably the best bit!
At least you can get the pump off without a double-helix ratchet scrammer.

 

I'm in the process of installing the replacement hose kit from colliflower and I'm having a problem with clearance between the latch panel and the roof support. The hose that goes to the right fitting contacts the roof support and I can't get the latch panel into place without really forcing it. Anyone else run into this? Any help would be appreciated.

The install was really going well. I cut the old hoses where they go across the front seat and again where they come out of the console. I cleaned out the remmaining hoses with brakleen and left them in the car. I then ran the new hoses all the way across the rear seat and up the length of the left side sill plate. If you loosen the 2 bottom bolts and remove the top bolt for the parking brake lever you can slide the hoses down and there is plenty of clearance. This eliminated the need to remove the front seat and console.

 

Did you install the orifice at the header? It is to go in at the pump. If this is not the case then do a minor adjustment and it should go in.

 

Just now installing a hose kit I purchased some time ago. Box contains 2 identical hoses, 8 right angel fittings (4 per bag), 1 .015 orifice, and one .045 orifice. I assume I only need 4 of the right angle fittings, but where do the orifices go. I can't seem to find the information anywhere and I had no instructions in the box.

Please help.

 

As mentioned in my post above the orifice is installed at the pump.

 

Thank you Gus, I guess I worded my question poorly. I have 2 orifices in the kit, a .015 and a .045. Do I use them both and if so which one goes to which hose. The restrictions in the original fittings appear to be about .025 and are the same on both hoses.

 

They were to be the same size .015 for both hoses at the pump.

 

Oops. Guess I'll try to contact the seller and get another .015.

 

Any local Hyd. shop should have them.

 

The Jaguar replacement hose does not last. I replaced my hose approximately 3 ½ years ago. The car is a weekend driver so since I replaced the hose until now I driven the car approximately 200 miles. When took the car back to the dealership they were unwilling to offer any discount on redoing the repair, Jaguar cooperate took the same position. Net result either do the repair myself or spend another $1800 for the repair.

 

200 miles in 3.5 years??? Even at weekend only driving that comes to 1 mile driven per weekend!

Anyway, if and when I ever need to revisit the hose situation I will look into getting those braided ones that Colliflower (?) offers and pay someone to install them.

Doug

 

This company also sells improved replacements: http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/36-jaguar

It is possible your last ones were stressed during installation. If they are installed with excessive twisting force when the fittings are tightened they will fail prematurely.

 

I have frequently been asked this question during the numerous calls I get regarding the relief valve kit. My stock answer has been to leave the new hoses in place mainly because of the cost of replacement. If you are doing your own labor then maybe the thinking is different. If the status of the hoses is unknown then the advice is to remove the top latch cover and give them a visual inspection. You can also look at the hoses in the trunk to see what year they are, which might be helpful. The relief valve will extend whatever life they have but is definitely not a cure all.

Every attempt should be made to reduce the temperature in the latch area which means use of some kind of cover. High heat in that area greatly reduces the strength of an already weak hose. The relief valve reduces the peak pressure by about 1/3 so is a big help. This is what I have done with my car that had new OEM (2003 on a 2000 car) hoses when I bought it. So far so good. I also use a car cover to reduce the temperature.

I also get a lot of calls from those who have a newly broken hose. The stock answer there is to absolutely avoid the OEM hose set. I have the Colliflower number on a post it and they have gotten numerous references this way.

 

Yeah, I have the pressure reducing valve. But the car is black. (2006 model) It lives outdoors under a car cover. The previous owner had the "green shower" summer of 2010. Fixed by dealer under warrantee.

Given my circumstances... black car, outdoors under car cover (it gets hot in Atlanta in the summer), pressure reducing valve...I wonder how long the interval before the next "episode".

I use my top. If I can't lower the top the car is of little use to me.

Also, at the next "episode", I suspect the dealer won't want to use the uprated hoses to fix it. Dealers like to use "authorized" parts even if they are not very good. I wonder who in Atlanta could do a good job using the good hoses?

Thanks,

Jack

 

I'll bet that your local dealership will indeed be willing to do your job using your hose of choice. They won't warranty the work, of course, but they will not want to lose the labor cost to do your car again. Ask them and find out for yourself....

But when the time eventually comes for you, I would order the hoses and then go to a locally-owned, well-respected ragtop-and-interior repair shop. Every large city has at least two or three of these places that have been in business for 25 or 30 years. Do your research now so you'll be prepared when the inevitable green shower strikes again....

 

I really think you should consider removing the cover and taking a look. This will put your mind at ease one way or the other. This only takes a few minutes with a phillips screw driver and be careful with those rubber pieces at the ends.

 

Yeah, good idea. I have not done that. The only maintenance I have done is to periodically spray Sail Kote over the "hook" and the mechanical pieces around it. Actually I think Sail Kote was your suggestion. Great stuff.

I have no idea of the condition of the hoses in that area. The ones near the pump look fine. I don't have any leaks.

With the lower pressure of the relief valve, the top seems to appreciate a little help when I start the lowering sequence. I put a little pressure pushing the front of the top up to help it get going. It likes that.

Jack

 

If the top raises without difficulty then it should not require any assistance going the other way. If you look at the pressure curves I published (way back now) the max working pressure is at the peak of the lift.

If the top is having a problem getting from the latch back to the apex you should be alert for other problems. There have been several instances where mechanical issues related to the lift cylinders, and mechanical superstructure, cause difficulty.

There is also the possibility that it is acting normally, and you are just hyper aware, because the top moves slowly in that part under any circumstances. This thing has a way of getting in one's head after the first event. I have noted various posts where people have curtailed use of the top out of fear they will have to deal with this again. I call this topphobia.

Anyway, taking a look will remove the question mark and rebuild (or not) confidence.

 

Perhaps this forum needs a topphobia support group section .

 

Indeed. Take two tablespoons of Pentosin hydraulic fluid and call me in the morning....