Kal - I don't know if there is a difference between a 2000 and a 2006, but I was sure able to do it in place on top of my CD/NAV/Amplifier stack. To be clear, I'm talking aboout the Torx-head plug on the inboard side of the pump (shown with red mark in Gus's picture below), not the hex-head plug on the outboard side. That one was relatively easy on mine with the pump in hand.



Anyway, glad to see good advice pouring forth. When you think about it, most of us would be reluctant to take on a project like this one cold. With all the guidance available here, the confidence factor runs high. Thanks again to all contributors.

 

Well here is the bad news - I was hoping the relief valve would reduce the line pressure enough to where the splice on the drivers side that Jag installed 3 years ago would not leak any more, but it still does. I am not going to attempt replacing the full hose yet - I will enjoy the good weather and use it as-is and then tackle the big job another day!

 

You can install fluid into the pump with it still installed in the car. All you need is a basting syringe and adding a hose to it. Remove the fill plug and dip the hose in and begin filling. I have done both 2 & 3 tier units.

 

It is unfortunate but the hose splices Jaguar installed were a huge failure and should have never been installed in the first place. It is unfortunate that the splice still failed but I am not at all surprised.

 

Agree. But it was worth a try 'cause it might have helped and ultimately the valve will help a new hose stay well.

Gus - Thanks for the great pics - I enjoyed installing the fix.

 

Jack: Any update? Was the shop able to get the plug and stuck bit out?

Kal

 

Yes. And I was able to reinstall the pump and get everything to work. It is explained in posts #21 and #38 of this thread...

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...t=50270&page=2

Here is a followup...

As I said in post #38, I had to cycle the top about 15 times to get it to work. Since I had to remove the pump and unscrew all 6 hydraulic lines from it, air must have gotten in which needed to bleed out. Cycling the top seemed to do it. When it started to work, it was perfect. You could run it up and down with no issue.

Two or three days ago I tried to lower the top for the first time since the pump was installed. The first time I tried, no luck. I cycled it a few more (about 5) times and it started to work great.

Yesterday I tried again. Again it would not work until I cycled a few times. Then it worked great.

All I can think is there is (was??) still air in the lines that needed to be bled out. I am hoping this gets better with a little more use. I am going to try to cycle the top every time I use the car until the top goes down the first time I try.

Maybe cycling the top is like pumping up a spongy clutch or brake pedal. Pump a few times and it works. That would be consistant with air in the lines. If this is it, I just hope all of it bleeds out. I have no other technique to get it out of the lines except to cycle the top up and down.

Jack

 

Jack,

Yes it is self purging but in this situation your hoses were removed and open for several days and you may have air pockets in the lines and latch/lifts. Have you checked the level at the pump? If it does it again call me.

Gus

 

I checked the level of fluid in the pump yesterday and it was in the acceptable range.

If I have air pockets do you think they will purge with use of the top?

Curiously, the six hydraulic lines did not leak any fluid while they were disconnected. I thought they would. Since no fluid leaked I wouldn't think much air could enter.

If operating the top bleeds air I will start operating it daily until it works first try.

Hey, I've got a relief valve installed, so I won't get the green shower!!

Jack

 

If the level has changed then I would say you had a little air in the system. Now keep in mind that a little air will cause this issue. Operating the system will remove the air but continue to check the fluid level. Keep in mind that you may have a system that is operating a little sluggish and may need a little lubrication. Give it a little time and operations and see what takes place.

 

I think the fluid level went down a little, but it is still in the acceptable range. Displaced some air in the system I suppose.

As far as operation of the top...

Before I installed the device the top worked perfectly. Smooth down, smooth up. Latched close no problem.

After I installed the device the top worked perfectly. Smooth down, smooth up. Latched close no problem.

The ONLY difference is now I have to run it through a few cycles before it works. Once it works it is perfect.

If as you suggest operating the system will purge the air, I will keep doing it til it works first try. I wonder where the air goes. How does it leave the system?

Jack

 

Howdy Folks:
Seems to me that some of the fluid that is in the sump would swap places with the air in the system. Therefore, the fluid level in the sump would drop by some amount. Pressure buildup (if any) by the increase of air volume in the sump will be normalized when the cap is removed to top off the fluid level.
If I am wrong, let me know. It would not be the first time.

 

I am posting this information because we seem to be getting a lot of questions about the roof operations that can be resolved quickly. I hope this helps!

Hose evaluation Body
Hose replacement Click on photos to enlarge
Replacement after market hose Replacement Roof Hose
Pressure relief valve JAGUAR ROOF HYDRAULIC PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
Hyd fluid Hydraulic Fluid
Roof latch repair http://www.gusglikas.com/images/Auto...atchRepair.pdf
Manual operation of roof Hyd Roof Operation

 

Installed the new hoses and pressure reducer today. The only thing I can add to what I've seen here it to use vacuum caps on the old and new hoses during install. keeps the oil in the old and dirt out of the new hose.

After the install I had a problem with the top latch being out of sequence.
Starting from top down I push the button, the top goes up but the latch wants to drop before the top engages. I can get it to engage if I use the allen wrench. But even engaged if I continue to press the button the latch pushes the top back up an inch or so. If I press for down for a second the latch retracts enough to close with the wrench. Then I press for up and the windows come up.

Starting from top up, I press for down, the windows lower, the top drops but the latch never retracts. No beep telling me it's done either.
I drained the old fluid and put in new during install. As I cycled the top it needed more which I added, so it appears to be bled. There are no leaks.

I checked one of Gus's posts mentioning the top getting out of sequence. He mentioned using the key in the door to put the top up but when I turn the key it drops the top.

I tried, through a combination of button and wrench to set the top and all windows to fully closed and then disconnected and reconnected the battery. still no change.

Does anyone have any ideas on how I can re-sequence the top?

 

The hoses to the latch are directional and must be coordinated with the roof operation. It sounds like the hoses are crossed. You can correct this by switching the two hoses at the pump and it should fix the problem. Let me know if that is the fix. Also check your PM.

 

Gus, you da man. Swapped the hoses and it worked perfectly. Summer here I come.
Thank you.

 

On the road again! Kudos to you!

 

Job is not completely finished because when i reached under the carpet I found out that the foam cushion was soaked. Strangely, carpet itself is dry. I tried to use a shop-vac to suck water out of it, but it is too powerful and the foam has tendency disintegrate. For now the undercarpet is on layers of paper towel and tomorrow it will be all exposed to sun (hopefully). I took pictures of this process and later I will publish them here.

 

My last post is a quote by DNEU earlier in this thread.
I found the same thing. Did you trace the source of the leak? I let mine dry a few days. I have not checked the other side but will soon.

 

This car is plagued with areas for water to enter. I recently noticed a problem with water in the floor mat on the driver’s side. My plan was to check under the wipers and along the bulkhead/fire wall of the car. If it is water I would begin checking in that area. I hope this helps!