Howdy Folks:
I just took a look in my top latch area since I had trace fluid dripping from my overhead grille. The hose connection (363 hose) nearest the passenger side has started to fail even in spite of having installed the pressure release valve a couple of years ago. (this is the only leak I see)
I have read a good many posts and it is not my intent to rehash them. What I am considering is having Top Hydraulics Inc. rebuild my top latch, both rams and installing their upgraded 6 hose set.
Has anyone actually gone this route?
All input appreciated.

 

Sorry for the leak! Top Hyd is a great resource for all the Hyd equipment from the pump to the latch and rams. As for the quality I have not heard a negative thing about them yet and I try to monitor all xk8/r hyd problems. As for the PRV it will extend the life of the already stressed under rated old hoses with hopes of no failures.

 

Dr.,

The latch and ram hydraulic circuits are completely separate from each other, though we tend to think about the two together for obvious reasons. The reported failure rates of the two are radically different.

Suggestion: would it make sense to save some time and $$ by just rebuilding the circuit that tends to fail (i.e. the latch)? In other words, would you be planning a rebuild of the ram circuit if it were not for the poor reliability of the latch circuit?

Last time I looked, THI did not list a price for just the latch hoses, but somebody reported recently that they will sell just those hoses if asked.

 

Dr.D
I have used Top Hydraulics to rebuild my latch and replace the latch hoses. They are very easy to work with and the rebuild was top quality. So far it has been 6 months on the rebuild so I cant comment on longevity yet
Pete
04 XKR

 

Thanks guys:
I received EM back from Klaus at THI this afernoon. Although he wants me to consider the full 6 hose / 3 cylinder upgrades package deal @ $1000, he will supply the front 2 hoses @ $250.
It looks like I will go with the 2 hose & latch rebuild for now ($410 including shipping). Again, thanks all.

 

I am sure you will be pleased with his products and service. Let us know when you get it done.

 

Yep, that was me recently that said Klaus will do the four top hoses for me for $400, at least at this time. Prices may flux if you're viewing this thread far into the future. My latch hoses were already replaced recently, though I wonder if I have some trace fluid that is new or leftover in my gummed up light console...

I'm sending in mine and my pump to have the solenoids rebuilt (another $200 for both) hopefully next week. Been busy lately and haven't had time to give priority to the fun car this month...

 

If you have to clean the roof console I did mine a few months ago. Instructions and the link is below.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t=green+shower

 

Howdy Folks:

I installed my upgraded top latch and top hoses. Klaus was great to do business with. I flushed system, refilled (and topped off) Pentosin. It worked first try! (surprised how little the air sputter was)

Thanks to Gus and all other the other post I used.

Some notes and findings in no particular order:

· I removed the adhesive from the treadplate underthe (XKR) Finisher before reading WhiteXKR's to leave it and use the hot airgun to reactivate it .

(?? What adhesive is recommended to replace or is there enough adhesive on the finisher to redo??)

· I lovingly removed the finisher with a hot airgun, single edge razor blades and plastic credit card with a ground knife edge.(it is possible to remove without any damaging metal deformation - I did it)

· I did not understand Gus's use of straps at the lift cylinders framework, I was able to raise and lower top manually as needed by lifting and lowing the top by grabbing the center of the top header bow.

· I removed the bars above the rear speakers then removed the spkrs.

· I removed the package shelf then 1 screw and the passenger side bottom wire that holds the headliner in place back of the rearseat back to gain access to the hoses and ty wire anchors.

· I reused existing anchored ty wires by clipping the wire portion and sliding a regular ty wire through the anchor slot (there area release pins but I did not use them)

· While the console is out, check to see if any buttons on the panel are sticking. (my trac cont and emergency 4 way flasher buttons were stuck and I freed them by backing off on the two middle screws.)(also a good time to add that antenna switch)

· At the fascia fuse box I removed the relay, the kick panel (pdf for removal is on internet) and black door weld strip. Next I used a hooked wire tool to pull the hoses out of the upper and lower clip. ThenI could pull the hoses through the passageway that the black door weld strip was covering instead of fishing them down. (Klaus's are slightly smaller diameter and went in a lot easier)

· The top cylinders pivot . Make sure they have clearance. I had rerouted/ reconnected the side glass motor wire to the wrong side of the cylinder and had to go back and fix.

· Watch out for possible black grease on top latch header about 6"right of drivers a pillar (will get on your hands and anything else before you know it.)

· You may want to put spring clamps on the rear seatbelts at the retractors to retain them after pulling them out till they stop

After all was done, I celerbrated by playing Buck Owens"Together Again" .

Again Thank All

 

Well done Dr D, some good tips there.

 

Use contact cement, brush it on both surfaces, wait about 10 minutes for it to tack up, line it up and press it down. Remove traces of the old adhesive first with mineral spirits.

 

The straps were used to unlock the roof at the rams it appears that your roof was not locked closed and that is why you were able to open it with little effort. The straps were used as a precaution to prevent forcing and bending the roof frame. I did not remove the tread plate I just reached under the carpet.

I am pleased to hear that you made your repairs and all went well.

 

Steve:
Thanks, I've got the cement. Although I am fearful of not aligning for a perfect fit, I'm going for it. ( Basically a one shot deal. )

 

Gus:
At the time I figured that the leak was on the "lock" side and that power unlocking and lowering the top would be OK. In hindsight, what I did was risky. I was lucky doing that and also that the ovhd console and freshly reupholstered winshield hdr/ A pillars were spared any damage.