Seized damper bolt
#1
Seized damper bolt
Hello all,
I'm currently replacing both rear shocks and so far have managed to do the N/S OK.
Moving onto the O/S all the bolts/nuts have loosened nicely except one - the damper bolt which passes through the lower wishbone and shock absorber spherical joint. The nut came off a dream but I cannot shift the bolt.
The springs have been compressed so the shock is loose on the bolt - ie nothing has seized there - but despite penetrating fluid and a lot of grunt it still will not shift.
I have even heated the bolt with a propane flame although my burner may not be man enough for the job.
Has anyone else had this problem?
Is it seized under the bolt-head or is it where the bolt passes along the wishbone?
My dealer wants £££££$$$$$ to finish the job so I don't really want to give up on it having come so far!
I'm slightly annoyed because the bolt on the other side was no problem - both shocks must have been replaced at the same time (they were non-OEM) therefore subject to the same amount of corrosion.
Many thanks - Andrew
I'm currently replacing both rear shocks and so far have managed to do the N/S OK.
Moving onto the O/S all the bolts/nuts have loosened nicely except one - the damper bolt which passes through the lower wishbone and shock absorber spherical joint. The nut came off a dream but I cannot shift the bolt.
The springs have been compressed so the shock is loose on the bolt - ie nothing has seized there - but despite penetrating fluid and a lot of grunt it still will not shift.
I have even heated the bolt with a propane flame although my burner may not be man enough for the job.
Has anyone else had this problem?
Is it seized under the bolt-head or is it where the bolt passes along the wishbone?
My dealer wants £££££$$$$$ to finish the job so I don't really want to give up on it having come so far!
I'm slightly annoyed because the bolt on the other side was no problem - both shocks must have been replaced at the same time (they were non-OEM) therefore subject to the same amount of corrosion.
Many thanks - Andrew
#2
Can you get the bolt to turn in the spherical joint - long breaker bar and a good socket? Better still( if you have one) an air impact wrench. Heat should also help. Once you've got it rotating it should come out - help it if necessary by putting the nut(to protect the thread and stop it riveting over)on and hammering.
If all else fails grind the head off the bolt.
Btw - I'm about to change my rear shocks and can't seem to find a spring compressor small enough to fit the rears - what did you use?
If all else fails grind the head off the bolt.
Btw - I'm about to change my rear shocks and can't seem to find a spring compressor small enough to fit the rears - what did you use?
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multiplecats (05-25-2014)
#3
Can you get the bolt to turn in the spherical joint - long breaker bar and a good socket? Better still( if you have one) an air impact wrench. Heat should also help. Once you've got it rotating it should come out - help it if necessary by putting the nut(to protect the thread and stop it riveting over)on and hammering.
If all else fails grind the head off the bolt.
Btw - I'm about to change my rear shocks and can't seem to find a spring compressor small enough to fit the rears - what did you use?
If all else fails grind the head off the bolt.
Btw - I'm about to change my rear shocks and can't seem to find a spring compressor small enough to fit the rears - what did you use?
Unfortunately I can't get the bolt to turn at all. I'm wondering whether it's stuck at the spherical joint end of the shaft?
I like the idea of the air tool, I don't have one but I wonder if it would be a good investment
Regarding the compressors I used the Jaguar real-thing 'special tool 204-179' but I'm sure others have used more conventional type. The real advantage is they have long 'tails' which hang down under the hub carrier so you can get a good purchase with spanner/wrench. Whatever you use make sure they're radially positioned correctly on the springs, (normally about the 11 and 5 o'clock positions) otherwise they will prevent you from eventually extracting the whole shock assembly.
If you would like more detailed help or info on doing any of the above don't hesitate to pm or reply me.
In the meantime it's
Andrew
The following users liked this post:
batroute (05-23-2014)
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multiplecats (05-25-2014)
#5
PLUSGAS used over 3 days is what I did and had no issue with nut, bolt or bushes which I replaced on the car with a homemade tool. Spring compressors from SCREWFIX.CO.UK.
Machine Mart do a 240v hammer gun, anything that will not undo, this baby just undoes it or snaps the heads off...either way it comes off!!!
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...-impact-wrench
Machine Mart do a 240v hammer gun, anything that will not undo, this baby just undoes it or snaps the heads off...either way it comes off!!!
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...-impact-wrench
Last edited by smithtrevor; 05-24-2014 at 12:51 PM. Reason: Added the link
The following users liked this post:
multiplecats (05-25-2014)
#6
Success!
Finally managed to shift this bolt. I suspect it was eventually a combination of heat n' hammer!
Thanks for all the suggestions.
smithtrevor:- the Plusgas is on order and the powertool looks really useful - I'll probably get one for next time!
Here's a picture of the sucker, doesn't look like the last person copper-greased it.
Finally managed to shift this bolt. I suspect it was eventually a combination of heat n' hammer!
Thanks for all the suggestions.
smithtrevor:- the Plusgas is on order and the powertool looks really useful - I'll probably get one for next time!
Here's a picture of the sucker, doesn't look like the last person copper-greased it.
#7
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