XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

Seized front upper wishbone!!

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Old 06-11-2011, 10:57 AM
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Default Seized front upper wishbone!!

Hi all.

Today I decided to investigate the firm ride on my recently aquired 1999 XK8.
After going over a few sleeping policemen I had noticed how smooth the nearside was compared to the offside,so I jacked up the n/s and I had to jack it up quite away before the wheel cleared the ground.
Not so the o/s,didnt go up very far before the wheel was clear.
I loosened off the upper spring mounts to see if it was a seized damper,but no.
I then disconnected the top ball joint to test the lower and upper wishbones,and found the lower moves as I would expect but the upper is frozen solid.
I am now in the process of giving it liberal doses of WD40,I have loosened off the nut and tried to turn the bolt with the help of a long lever,but dont want to force it to the point of breaking something, :roll: so I am gently levering it up and down in the hope that I can free it off.
As all the other bushes are moving as they should and dont show signs of wear I am giving them all a liberal dose of WD40 to hopefully help prevent them seizing up,and when I get more time I will remove and grease the bolts.
I have no doubt that a few of you have experienced this,so please feel free to divulge any tricks of the trade that you used to free them off???
I will of course be replaceing the bushes or if need be the whole upper wishbone,what i dont want to have happen is the subframe breaking on me! :shock:
Thanks in advance for all the help and tips that I hope will come flooding in!! :wink:

Dave
 
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Old 06-11-2011, 09:28 PM
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If the nut is off, you won't break anything, there is nothing else to keep the a-arm bolt from turning. My guess is that the bolt head is corroded to the first shim and/or the the bushing sleeve. keep shooting some wd-40 as far into the bushing that you can, then just wrench it eventually. You could tap the nut end of the bolt, see if you can break it free with just few hard smacks, but don't damage the threads. In fact, this is how I got a seized bolt out of my lower shock bushing...i put the nut back on, threaded it till the bolt was about to protrude through the nut, then wacked the nut.
 
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Old 06-11-2011, 11:05 PM
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There are better things to use than WD40. Try some Kroil or Liquid Wrench.
 
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Old 06-12-2011, 03:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Reverend Sam
There are better things to use than WD40. Try some Kroil or Liquid Wrench.
Never heard of those products? maybe they are unique to the USA?
Anyway will carry on squirting,hitting and levering,maybe I need a longer lever that 5ft!!!
When I do lever the bolt head back and forth via a socket and extension,the top of the subframe flexes and thats what I worry about breaking!
Even the best penetrating fluids can take time to do the job!
Now if it wasnt hissing down and windy and I had finished building my carport I could be out there having another go and be dry,as the garage has my other 2 classics in it.
Ah well,I will have to stay in and carry on with the leather seat refurb for my Rover!

Dave
 
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Old 06-12-2011, 11:29 AM
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How about PB B'laster? Do you have that locally?
 
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Old 06-13-2011, 04:10 AM
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Hi Pilkie, Been there done that! I notice you are based in Bristol, so your car will have suffered the dreaded British salt and damp like mine.
I recently replaced the upper bushes on my 2000 XKR for the same reasons you'r experiencing.
One of my fulcrum bolts was stuck solid within the sub frame, actually corroded on to it, see pics.
So bad was it I had to cut through the fulcrum bolt at the thread end and even then it refused to move. I had to resort to using a blow lamp to heat and cool it, with plenty of penertrating oil and a big spanner at the other end. This bolt was seriously stuck.
Several patient hours later I managed to get it out. See pics. The rusty lump is the remains of one end of the fulcrum bolt and the inner bushing. I hope you don't have the same problems as me.
I also replaced the OEM bushes with poly replacements and have found them to be pretty good.
Cheers, Dave.
XJ40[fast]
XKR [scary fast]
 
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Old 06-13-2011, 04:56 AM
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Be carefull with WD40 in that area.

IT DESTROYS RUBBER PARTS/SEALS
 
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Old 06-13-2011, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Boztron
Hi Pilkie, Been there done that! I notice you are based in Bristol, so your car will have suffered the dreaded British salt and damp like mine.
I recently replaced the upper bushes on my 2000 XKR for the same reasons you'r experiencing.
One of my fulcrum bolts was stuck solid within the sub frame, actually corroded on to it, see pics.
So bad was it I had to cut through the fulcrum bolt at the thread end and even then it refused to move. I had to resort to using a blow lamp to heat and cool it, with plenty of penertrating oil and a big spanner at the other end. This bolt was seriously stuck.
Several patient hours later I managed to get it out. See pics. The rusty lump is the remains of one end of the fulcrum bolt and the inner bushing. I hope you don't have the same problems as me.
I also replaced the OEM bushes with poly replacements and have found them to be pretty good.
Cheers, Dave.
XJ40[fast]
XKR [scary fast]
I am glad to see somewone else resort to cutting the bolt,as it is probably the only way if its that stuck!
I will carry on each eve after work with long levers,WD40,and a bit of heat on the center of the bolt in the subframe.
I have sourced a good complete upper arm with nut and bolt for a reasonable price "less than 2 new bushes!" if I need to get it.
If it comes to it I will cut the bolt in the middle and break the wishbone into 2,then i will be working on 1 stuck section at a time and only if it is stuck in the subframe,as it wont matter if it stays stuck in the bush,like your bit!

Dave
 
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Old 06-18-2011, 03:32 PM
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Hi all.

Now I have a good replacement wishbone and pivot bolt to fit,ive decided to go for it this weekend.
1st job was to complete the roof on the carport,as the XK's windscreen was due for replacement and it had to be done in the dry.


Once this was done I set to on the wishbone!!
I gave it one more try with WD40 and levers,only to have the bolt head shear off!!
This just confirmed that it is well and truly stuck!


I got the heat gun out and tried that,the result was the bush freed up on the pivot and it all moved ok,or so it seemed!
Took it for a quick drive and it was transformed from a teeth filling jarring ride to a smooth but firm ride as it should be.
The only way I could now see to get this off,is to cut it off bit by bit,so I cut the wishbine into 2 sections and removed each from the pivot.


That has left the inner bush guides still solid on the bolt,so I will gradually cut that off tomorrow,leaving the bolt stuck in the subframe.
Hopefully I can gradually persuade it out with a combination of lube,heat,hit,turn till it eventually looses its grip.
I will remove the susp strut to give me better access,and have all day tomorrow to work on it,and hopefully get it fixed.
Please god it comes out,as I dont really want to remove and or replace the subframe,but just incase,I have got one sourced. :wink:
At least my TR6 will get a bit of use,as I havent got round to getting the MOT done on the rover V8 yet.
Got a local car show next weekend and all 3 are booked in!!
Heres hoping!!!!!

Dave
 
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Old 06-18-2011, 05:07 PM
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A bloody awful job, Good Luck!
Try some of the more advanced penetrating oils.

The fulcrum bolt was seized in place on my 2000 XJ8. There is even less room than what you have to whack the bolt. Luckily, I was after the ball joints and was able to work around the upper control wishbone. It's still stuck.

The Rover looks great. Looks like it has every possible extra.

Dan
 
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Old 06-19-2011, 04:47 AM
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That's a mammoth job , looking forward to hearing good news from you
 
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Old 06-19-2011, 01:22 PM
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Hey Dave, man that looks like a beast of a job, sounds like you'll eventually be victorious though...definitely let us know what you use to prevent the next bolt/sleeve/arm from corroding together...and are you going to get to the other side and work some magic on that as well to protect it from happening also?

thanks for the update!
 
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Old 06-19-2011, 04:24 PM
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After chopping the wishbone in 2 and removing bush ends from the pivot bolt,I was left with the remnants of the inner bushings still on it.
I removed the strut for better access and started removing the debris bit by bit till I was left with just the jammed pivot bolt.!
I managed to cut out the middle section of the bolt and have almost freed the right hand bit,it has moved about 10mm but has got stuck,and my gas ran out,but also ran out of time today.


As we have light evenings and the carports built,I can get a couple of hours on it after work this week till its all free.
I am getting there gradually,so will hopefully get to the car show next weekend!
 
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Old 06-19-2011, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by h20boy
Hey Dave, man that looks like a beast of a job, sounds like you'll eventually be victorious though...definitely let us know what you use to prevent the next bolt/sleeve/arm from corroding together...and are you going to get to the other side and work some magic on that as well to protect it from happening also?

thanks for the update!
Fortunately the nearside is perfect,as are all the lower arm bolts,but I will be lubricating them all with plenty off coppergrease.
I believe the main reason this seized up was the fact it was parked up for a year while its last owner was working abroad.
The other jobs I will be doing asap are the rear damper replacement,and those bolts are all free as ive undone them to diagnose the damper problem.
I also will do a gearbox oil and filter change,as soon as I can get in on the ramp in the garage!
 
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Old 06-20-2011, 02:02 PM
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SUCCESS!!
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The Aprehension,blood,sweat,and near tears,etc are over!
ITS DONE!!
With a new cannister of gas and a determined attitude, I got home from work,had a cuppa,
sarnie and 1/2hr on the PC catching up,then got stuck in.
And 15mins later the 1st bit was out,then after 1/2 hr I persuaded the other bit out!
You can see the final pile of debris,compared to the excellent replacement.


Once it was out and the hole cleaned out,it only took about an hour to put it all back together
with ample amounts of coppergrease,making sure nothing was overtightened,and there were no tight spots.


Now thats done,I can do the last couple of jobs on the Rover V8 and get its MOT in time for the
weekend car show,as I am taking all 3 as its very local and for charity.
Next job on the Jag is fitting the new rear dampers,that should be a doddle compared to the wishbone,
as I will do it on the 4 poster,and all the bolts I need to undo have already been checked and lubricated.
 
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Old 06-20-2011, 07:21 PM
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Congrats! What a pain to have to deal with.

Mike
 
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Old 06-20-2011, 09:45 PM
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I gave up on WD-40 years ago as a penetrating oil. As others tried to tell you, this is not what is was invented for. It is a Water Displacing formulation, got it right on the 40th try. For penetrating oil, PB Blaster or Wurth make far, far superior products. Might have even saved you all that work.
 
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Old 06-20-2011, 10:06 PM
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Pilkie, I am in awe of some of the diagnoses and repairs I read about on this forum. Your story ranks right up there in being worthy of that admiration. And you so casually mention in passing erecting the carport and replacing the windshield at the same time. Good write-up, and pictures too. Congratulations on a job well done.

- And the Rover looks really sharp. I like it.

Steve
 
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Old 06-21-2011, 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by DougBoost
I gave up on WD-40 years ago as a penetrating oil. As others tried to tell you, this is not what is was invented for. It is a Water Displacing formulation, got it right on the 40th try. For penetrating oil, PB Blaster or Wurth make far, far superior products. Might have even saved you all that work.
In all fairness, the OP is in another market where your favourite products are not commonly sold. He did not ignore the suggestions as he specifically responded to the brand names.

PB Blaster, et al are not the ne plus ultra of penetrants.

There are some that have been lost in the mists of time that work better than most of the hyper-marketed brands of today.
 
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Old 06-21-2011, 08:50 AM
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you are lucky you caught this in time. I had the same problem when i bought my 2000 xkr. The seized bushings caused the bolt to move in the front frame and mad it necessary to replace the complete front frame.
 


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