Sick and tired
#1
Sick and tired
Well two and half weeks after first having the abs control module rebuilt and reinstalled (I'd already cleaned the sensors to no avail), then removed and replaced, and then having the fittings on the hydraulic hoses replaced and tightened (for the 15th time) after having purchased and installed the pressure relief valve, I had enjoyed a brief period of no abs/traction control warning lights and/or leaking from the hydraulic hoses from the convertible assembly in the driver footwell or the overhead grill. And then, within 24 hours of each other, both problems re-appeared, a slight leak in the footwell, the abs/traction control light, first, occasionally coming on and now constantly coming on after starting the car and driving a few feet. I am sick and tired, frustrated, and just plain pissed that it's so much effort to keep this beautiful car running without hitches. The cliches about the service required to keep English cars on the road without problems are all true. I feel like saying, "Anybody want a mint condition 2002 XKR, complete with all the usual Jaguar problems?"
#2
I had issues with this but has them repaired. I think there might something else causing these issues - too much presure in your lines, etc.
If you fix a problem and it reappears there is something else that is causing it. You are really only treating the symptom; you need to find the root cause.
Good luck - don't give up!
If you fix a problem and it reappears there is something else that is causing it. You are really only treating the symptom; you need to find the root cause.
Good luck - don't give up!
#3
#4
#5
Tberg,
On the sensor/wiring issue that Motorcarman mentioned ...
This one is common and easy to miss. There is a published procedure for measuring the resistance of each wheel sensor and its wiring. 2k ohms on older cars, 1k ohm on later cars is the expected value (don't know the MY where it changes). But, the procedure as described gives a static measurement ... one with the steering sitting in a single position only. In fact, steering position isn't mentioned.
Trouble is, even if the static readings look good, a fault can show up as the steering is moved through its full range of travel (which causes connectors to be stressed, or can cause a broken wire in a harness section to make and lose contact).
Best way to catch it, IMO, is to use an analog ohm meter on each of the two front sensor circuits, and watch for a blip in the ohm reading as the steering is moved lock to lock. If the needle on the meter jumps, you've found your trouble, or at least one of your troubles.
Good luck.
On the sensor/wiring issue that Motorcarman mentioned ...
This one is common and easy to miss. There is a published procedure for measuring the resistance of each wheel sensor and its wiring. 2k ohms on older cars, 1k ohm on later cars is the expected value (don't know the MY where it changes). But, the procedure as described gives a static measurement ... one with the steering sitting in a single position only. In fact, steering position isn't mentioned.
Trouble is, even if the static readings look good, a fault can show up as the steering is moved through its full range of travel (which causes connectors to be stressed, or can cause a broken wire in a harness section to make and lose contact).
Best way to catch it, IMO, is to use an analog ohm meter on each of the two front sensor circuits, and watch for a blip in the ohm reading as the steering is moved lock to lock. If the needle on the meter jumps, you've found your trouble, or at least one of your troubles.
Good luck.
#6
having the fittings on the hydraulic hoses replaced and tightened (for the 15th time) after having purchased and installed the pressure relief valve, I had enjoyed a brief period of no abs/traction control warning lights and/or leaking from the hydraulic hoses from the convertible assembly in the driver footwell or the overhead grill. And then, within 24 hours of each other, both problems re-appeared, a slight leak in the footwell
Jack
#7
that abs traction control to me is a transmission issue. I dont think its the abs module in most cases. these cars are frustrating but they are beautiful when they are running right. you changed all of the wheel sensors and abs module, thats a good thing, now lets find out whats wrong with the car. we should start by looking at the transmission make sure its not giving us problems
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#9
Hi, I,m on my third XK probably driven a quarter of a million miles in all 3, had this ABS problem on all of them, and the problem has always been the cable to one of the front wheel sensors due to flexing, as other members have pointed out in previous posts.But thats just "Me"
Suggest you put a digital multimeter on ohm setting across the connector located under the bonnet, should read 1-2 k ohms depending on year cut the 2 cable ties on upper wisbone and wiggle the cable, if the reading on meter jumps all over the place then cables fu##d. If theres a high resistance on cable and sensor resistance is normal then cables still fu###d
Suggest you put a digital multimeter on ohm setting across the connector located under the bonnet, should read 1-2 k ohms depending on year cut the 2 cable ties on upper wisbone and wiggle the cable, if the reading on meter jumps all over the place then cables fu##d. If theres a high resistance on cable and sensor resistance is normal then cables still fu###d
#10
That very senario you describe with the brake pedal switch happened to me. Had to run a full computer diagnostic thru my indy shop's computer scan to find it though.
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