I did not find any dampness. However, while it was not there initially, I did find some dampness around the rim of the spare tire after the trunk had been open for a period of time — maybe humidity from outdoors and possibly the source of the dampness you reference.

However, in the meantime, I swapped out the up and down micro switches to see if one might be faulty as suggested earlier in the thread. I manually lowered the top to the down position to give the swapped micros switch a try but I failed to manually close the latch. After swapping the switches I pushed the close switch and the top began it’s closing routine. Unfortunately , I also failed to remove the Allen wrench from its hole and suddenly the Allen wrench began turning as the top rose up. It my haste to remove the allen wench I let go of the switch for a moment then punched it again and the top continued to move to its closed seat. However the latched had not opened and thus did not lock down the top. Nor did the rear windows close!

One step forward and two steps back! Now I get “Top not latched” warning on the dash! So now I have the opposite problem than before — The soft top will no go down BUT the rear windows are still down!

I did swap back the up/down micro switches thinking that would take me back to the beginning with the top down since it appears the up micro switch is the culprit. However the top will now NOT go down!

i tried to manually lower the top but it seems to be firmly locked at the rams now as it will not move. Yep, I did release the T valve at the pump but the top is firmly closed — but not latched.

Soooo… any thoughts or recommendations?

 

I am fairly certain the controller computer algorithm has a failsafe so any microswitch failure will never result in a solenoid remaining on for more than a minute or so to prevent draining the battery or overheating the solenoids which could potentially overheat if they remain energized. Another reason I think you are barking up the wrong tree and the controller is at fault (ie; the SLCM).

 

Dcarlo, your idea on swapping the micro switches proved correct but then I messed up ROYALLY … see the explanation below on the response to WhiteXKR.

 

I did have two instances where the up solenoid got very hot. I disconnect the battery and they quickly cooled down. They did not get hot after today’s events. Where do I go about finding a replacement SLCM?

 

Step one to locale the VCATS label in the trunk, usually around

the spare tire well and get the VCATs number for the 'SLM'. You will need to match both the part number to the left of the slash and the VCATS number (essentially the software version) to the right of the slash to get a plug and play replacement.

 

I am yet to find the VACTs numbers in the trunk. Where else might I look?

 

It should be back there. You may need to remove the spare tire and/or sidewall carpeting.

 

I removed all the carpet and did not find it.

 

You may have to remove the SLCM. The part number will be on it and hopefully the VCATS, although the VCATS is not always on the modules in this car, it sometimes is.

 

White XkR,
I Just did a second look. I removed everything from the trunk, spare tire, jack and tool holder, carpets etc! No sign of a label or where one might have been. I checked around the doors, under the hood.

As I continue to scratch my head, I did order two top up and down modules (which I called micro switches earlier) from the Jaguar dealership. They said the part number had changed but they were the proper replacement modules. They hopefully will be here tomorrow.

So so if these modules not solve the problem what is my best solution with finding the proper SLM?

thank you for your interest and help.

 

This man will fix you up if you decide you need a solenoid or the whole pump assembly.
Zig Paul or Angela. The solenoid is $80. Not sure about the cost of the pump assy. Or you can send him your pump assy and he will rebuild it and send it back. You might want to call and talk to him first. He is just an hour north of me, so I was fortunate enough to drive up there and chat him up a bit. Great guy, and very helpful. Or email him. I asked him about sharing his contact information here on the forum and he was alright with it.

Cabriolet Hydraulics, LLC

2111 72nd Terrace E

Sarasota, FL 34243

(941) 756-1300

Zig@CabHyd.com

 

I am now in phase 2 of this soft top project. I need some advice.

Here is what I know:
- Per WhiteXKR ( who has been great help) it is very likely my SLCM is the culprit. But the proper SLCM is hard to find and to add insult to injury my Jag does not appear to have the VCATS sticker — I have searched under every nook and cranny.
- I swapped out the top up and down modules and the top responded as designed and closed. BUT in my haste I failed to remove the Allen Key from its slot on the windshield and it began turning as the top raised. I paused on the top up button to quickly remove the Allen Key then again pushed the button. However the hook closed before grasping the top hook and now the top is firmly sitting on top of the closed hook. I now get a “Hood not Latched” warning on the dash board. I tried swapping back the top up/down modules hoping the top would open. It did not! I have ordered two up/down modules from the Jaguar Dealership and awaiting their arrival. BTW the side windows remain open.

My hope is that the two new modules will solve the problem and all will be good with the world. However, should they not work the search will begin for the proper SLCM.

I have been unsuccessful, this time, manually opening the top. The rams seemed to be solidly in place since the top closed under the pressure of the hydraulics and I cannot budge them to release the top even with the T handle properly opened. Earlier when I raised the top manually obviously the rams did not fully lock and pulling them down was much easier. At this point I cannot drive my Jag until either the new modules fix things or the proper SLCM is located! The weather is too pretty to just let her sit there!

My guess is that since the top/hood did not properly latch the whole system is now out of whack. How do I manually fix that? I can push the top up with my hand from the inside but not enough to manually open the latch with the Allen Key. All I need is to raise the top an extra 1/4 to 1/2 inch higher and the latch would hook the top. Do I dare to use something to lever up the top that extra height? Or would that damage something?

So any thoughts or suggestions in phase Two of this project would be appreciated! In advance THANKS!

 

Are you saying that when you swapped the solenoids (modules?) on top of the pump you got the top to go UP on button push? If the top went up (with the down solenoid placed) that is a good sign that it IS the solenoid that is the problem. It might also mean that there is a design difference in the two solenoids (are they actually interchangeable or are there different part numbers?) as far as allowing reverse flow when not engaged? The down solenoid might not allow fluid to pass? What I would suggest is either putting the original solenoid back in place (both) and try the manual OR put the doggone pump in a little tray or pack towels around it and manually open the top and allow fluid to spill. No biggie.

You are right in your thinking that everything has to be "spot on" for the top to function properly and on command. For good reason but a real PITA when things go out of sync.

Although I understand your utter frustration I think you are very close to having this sorted out even though it might not feel like it.

In my experience, having some serious problems with a top I had to bring back to life, the easiest way to get everything "set" and ready is to fully OPEN the top. This includes windows, the latch up front, the rams and the ram position sensor.

Have you visually inspected the SCLM? In my experience (working on an xkr that spent time at the bottom of a lake) problems with water in modules that are powered up all the time/when water enters them - is obvious. You should be able to see evidence. Good thing is, if swapping the solenoids created the reverse of the original problem you might be able to rule out the SCLM, right?

Still, in my experience, SCLM are NOT hard to find and match. Just takes a bit of eBay-ing. Then, there is a GREAT UK company called auto reserve. They more than likely will be able to get you what you need.

Post a photo of the SCLM and I will help you look.
Brotha! All is not lost. It's gonna be alright.

 

i swapped the two black top up/down modules or relays not the two solenoids. The pump then worked fine so I am guessing that rules out the two solenoids on the pump. My error I believe was leaving the Allen screw in its hole on the roof and not opening the latch before pushing the up button. ! So now I have a closed but unlatched top as well as two side windows still open!

My new problem is to now get the top fully open to hopefully get everything back in sync. Unlike two days ago I now cannot get the rams to drop so I can manually lower the top.

My new black up/down modules or relays did not come in as promised today so have to wait to see if the SCLM is indeed the problem or one of the two black up/down modules. But then again if I can’t find a way to lower the rams I am in a Catch-22

So my question is would it be okay to use some sort of lever or wedge at small gap between the windshield and to top so to get enough space to open the claw to engage the hook to manually lock the top down and if so, would that get everything is sync so the top would then work with the replacement black modules and or replacement SCLM?

 

It sounds like the hydraulic system is still under pressure as you were able to use the pump to raise the roof, but missed on the latch. If you open the petcock on the pump, you should be able to raise the top enough to use the allen wrench to latch the top. You may not be able to raise the windows though. If you want the top down, you may be able to gently raise the top and see if it wants to drop. If it does not, the rams are "locked", gently press down on the top where the rams are to unlock them. See your owners manual for details on this procedure or search the forum for manual lowering of the top. The swapping of the relays gave good information. It sounds like you are on your way to solving this. Let us know if the new relays solved your problem. VCATS label, I find mine when I pulled the left side trunk carpet back to the spare tire well, on the top edge of the tire well.

 

No prying!!!! Believe me when I say,,, I am one of these forum members who gets frustrated and more than once will do more harm than good. You are close to solving this.

It sounds like a bum relay...

Everything you should do at this point is with the petcock on the pump wide OPEN! Letting fluid move freely in the system.

Like Carlo said, the rams have locked. There is the method he described to free up the rams. You may also be able to kinda crawl into the back seat(s) and reach under the cloth cover material and get your hands on the extended ram arms and give them a shove or a jerk! It shouldn't take much.

If you can get an inch or two where the top meets the windshield,,, what happens IF you use a socketed Allen key (10mm I believe) and turn the clasp/latch to the open/receive position? A socketed/ratchet type allen will make it so you can get full turns without coming up against the top.

 

Pictures are worth 10,000 words - if you can

 

Well an update. I appreciate all of the help on this and now hope for just a little more. As originally suggested it appears the problem is with the security and locking module (SLM) so I need guidance in fixing or replacing mine.

A little refresher on the situation. The issue began a month or so back when the top refused to raise after an afternoon drive. Because the SLM is no longer manufactured, I am told, I tried to rule out other options first starting with the two solenoids on top of the pump. After switching the black up down modules in the fuse box, the top immediately raised suggesting the pump and the two hydraulic solenoids were in good working order, as well as at least one of the black up/down modules. Unfortunately, I had failed to removed the Allen wrench from an early effort to manually raise and lower the top, so things jammed up nicely as the top raised with the switched black up/down modules. Switching back the two modules did not lower the roof.

So I purchased two new black up/down modules, manually lowered the top, closer the T valve, closed the top jaws on the windshield and removed the Allen wrench. Disconnected the battery ground lead, installed the two new black up/down modules, did a hard reset, reconnected the battery ground lead. Crossed my fingers and followed all the procedures to raise the top. Nothing happened!

So now I have removed the SLM ( See photo below). I have scoured the boot area for the VACTS label but one is not to be found. So my plea for help now is guidance on finding the proper replacement that works on a 2004 XK8. Someone suggested opening the SLM to inspect in for damage but I am uncomfortable tinkering with a electronic modules. BTW no sign of water in the trunk area.

 

That is the same part number that I just replaced in my car. I got mine from jagbits.com. They show one in stock, but list it as 2001-2002 model. They show a different part number for model year 2003-2006. I found my VCATS label on the "frame rail"to the left of the spare tire under the left side wall carpet. If you can find the label and find a matching replacement it should be plug and play(will have to program key fobs). If you can't find the label and buy a match to what you have, it may or may not work without programming. The part on jagbits.com is listed at $550. You may need to find an independent shop that specializes in European cars or maybe a dealer could help you. In my case, the dealer was absolutely no help other than to confirm that the part is discontinued. Best of luck to you.

 

Here's one... They can be found and they don't need to programmed in any real way in my experience...

Also, the part can be opened easily and there is NOTHING to worry about. They are made to be easily opened. In that, the board is very easy to see and inspect. There are a couple of blocks on the board that may need more advanced testing than just a visual,,, I can't help with that...

I believe there is something else going on here, but that's just me.

If things changed when you moved the RELAYS around (they are not modules) and you were able to reverse the disfunction basically, meaning you were able to change what wasn't working to the opposite direction of function by swapping the RELAYS from down to up or up to down, it's (at least it was) pretty clearly someth8ng to do with the relays.

When the allen wrench that was left in the manual latch release and secure socket spun on auto close/open did it come up against something that STOPPED it's motion? Meaning, did it jam,,, and put a huge amount of strain on the moving parts under that plastic covering at the top of the windshield??? Did you hear a snap or a crack? Could the resistance caused by the Allen key coming up against something have blown a fuse or fried a electrical connection somewhere?

I guess I will need to go online and search pictures of the latch mechanicals and bits and see if there is something in there that signals the position of the latch to the other components to tell them to RUN. Could be as simple as a non functional micro switch in the latch...

Something ain't adding up here. Jus say'n

Lots of times my problems are OFTEN things I've over looked or didn't know (some folks here will giggle at that) but is staring me right in the face.