Spark Plug Confusion XKR
#1
Spark Plug Confusion XKR
I have a 2001 XKR 4.0 Supercharged. (38K miles)
I cannot find any realizable information for spark plugs. I believe I want the NGK Iridium.
I have been told the IFR5N10 & #6418 BKR6EIX ?
Jaguar dealer claims NGK makes for Jaguar, but for $17.00 a plug!!?
Any Ideas would be greatly appreciated and Thank you !
I cannot find any realizable information for spark plugs. I believe I want the NGK Iridium.
I have been told the IFR5N10 & #6418 BKR6EIX ?
Jaguar dealer claims NGK makes for Jaguar, but for $17.00 a plug!!?
Any Ideas would be greatly appreciated and Thank you !
#2
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Loanking (02-24-2015)
#3
Thanks for the info
I have read that these plugs on the supercharger are only are good for about 30k miles? Extreme heat etc.
The originals are still in and after 15years, I assume the new Iridium Spark Plugs are better, hotter and higher performance?
I have several emails with Tech support team @ NGK Spark Plugs ( USA) Inc. The new number for the 2001 XKR w/ 4.0 duel screw Supercharger is NGK plug # BKR6EIX.
The originals are still in and after 15years, I assume the new Iridium Spark Plugs are better, hotter and higher performance?
I have several emails with Tech support team @ NGK Spark Plugs ( USA) Inc. The new number for the 2001 XKR w/ 4.0 duel screw Supercharger is NGK plug # BKR6EIX.
#4
#5
Interesting when you do a comparison of the graphs on the NGK site for the -11, -13 platinum & the -10 Iridium.
They are all the same for performance, fuel efficiency & durability, the only difference is a 10% increase in life for the Iridium.
I replaced mine at 95k for the second time in the engines life, plugs looked perfect, I went in to replace a coil pack so did all coils & all plugs & did platinum out & platinum in.
Also noted that a lot of parts suppliers - certainly in Europe show all three as interchangeable.
They are all the same for performance, fuel efficiency & durability, the only difference is a 10% increase in life for the Iridium.
I replaced mine at 95k for the second time in the engines life, plugs looked perfect, I went in to replace a coil pack so did all coils & all plugs & did platinum out & platinum in.
Also noted that a lot of parts suppliers - certainly in Europe show all three as interchangeable.
#7
Jsut a thought, I've replace mine with Iridium at 50k, I did this while checking the secondary tensioners which you 'should do' if not done, your MY is outside the change over date for metal one. Since you will already have 1/2 the job done getting to the plugs it's just a matter of pulling the valve cover to do a visual. ALSO, beware you may find oil in some of the plug wells when I did mine one bank was fine the other had 2 wells that had oil, I'd already purchased a gasket/seal set before I started so I replaced them all is well. As far as $ / plug it depends on what you are willing to spend and on how long you intend to keep the car the old pay me now or pay me later syndrome.
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#8
Jsut a thought, I've replace mine with Iridium at 50k, I did this while checking the secondary tensioners which you 'should do' if not done, your MY is outside the change over date for metal one. Since you will already have 1/2 the job done getting to the plugs it's just a matter of pulling the valve cover to do a visual. ALSO, beware you may find oil in some of the plug wells when I did mine one bank was fine the other had 2 wells that had oil, I'd already purchased a gasket/seal set before I started so I replaced them all is well. As far as $ / plug it depends on what you are willing to spend and on how long you intend to keep the car the old pay me now or pay me later syndrome.
New plugs, air, oil and fuel filters. I think that's about it ? Unless you know anything I may of missed?
Thank you.
#9
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The truth is that the spark will either ignite the fuel/air mixture or it won't. The stock components are perfectly capable of doing the job. A hotter bigger spark won't change anything.
As others have said, the stock plugs are good for 60K miles. About the only issue I would worry about is whether they have seized in place given that he car is 15 ears old.
#10
There's a lot of marketing myth and hype behind spark plugs. Much like drinking a particular brand of beer will suddenly make half naked super models appear at your swimming pool, plug manufacturers want you to think that their latest product will make your engine run better.
The truth is that the spark will either ignite the fuel/air mixture or it won't. The stock components are perfectly capable of doing the job. A hotter bigger spark won't change anything.
As others have said, the stock plugs are good for 60K miles. About the only issue I would worry about is whether they have seized in place given that he car is 15 ears old.
The truth is that the spark will either ignite the fuel/air mixture or it won't. The stock components are perfectly capable of doing the job. A hotter bigger spark won't change anything.
As others have said, the stock plugs are good for 60K miles. About the only issue I would worry about is whether they have seized in place given that he car is 15 ears old.
#11
Stressed plugs will cause coil damage as well. Poor ignition can cause exhaust/cat issues. Many upstream adjustments occur because the o2 senor sees poor combustion.. this drives the injector pulse (fuel trims).
I'm not sure he's looking for hotter/bigger... Just a fully functioning compatible properly gap'd plug to get the proper performance.
The following users liked this post:
Loanking (02-26-2015)
#12
#13
The maintenance sheet from Jaguar shows 100Kmiles for the iridium versions (IFR5N10). The latter have a platinum tip for a longer life, the BKR6EIX version will last shorter as it doesn't have this.
Regardless, after usage the sharp edges of the electrodes slowly get rounded of, and for a good spark you need sharp edges. As the cost per mile is so cheap for 8 plugs, I wouldn't mind in changing them earlier (but that is as I am very performance minded, my plugs are even more then $30 each).
Regardless, after usage the sharp edges of the electrodes slowly get rounded of, and for a good spark you need sharp edges. As the cost per mile is so cheap for 8 plugs, I wouldn't mind in changing them earlier (but that is as I am very performance minded, my plugs are even more then $30 each).
#14
thank you & things are now worse
I would like to thank everyone for all their input. I was doing an inspection yesterday and found a huge ugly surprise!
While backing the car out I found a 3 foot circle of what appears to be oil?
I checked and every thing on top side was clean.
I did notice what appears to be a bad trans pan gasket. very wet and dripping.
My concern was this is more golden brown same looks, smells and feel of oil?
Everything else is dry and I use a scope camera to investigate. The bell is good all the way around as well.
CONCERN: Is this some type of strange transmission fluid? Where the heck do you fill at?
Is this a common problem?
Thanks again and I may post a different topic and/or search the boards.
While backing the car out I found a 3 foot circle of what appears to be oil?
I checked and every thing on top side was clean.
I did notice what appears to be a bad trans pan gasket. very wet and dripping.
My concern was this is more golden brown same looks, smells and feel of oil?
Everything else is dry and I use a scope camera to investigate. The bell is good all the way around as well.
CONCERN: Is this some type of strange transmission fluid? Where the heck do you fill at?
Is this a common problem?
Thanks again and I may post a different topic and/or search the boards.
#15
Your problem is the electrical connector coupler. Common 722.6 trans issue I just replaced mine (as well as filter and install of bluetops)
These can be sourced a number of places I sourced mine here $80
CONNECTOR-, N-LINE - Terrys Jaguar Parts - JLM21109
Here's a good link if you diy
Mercedes-Benz 722.6 Transmission FAQ - Mercedes-Benz Forum
Here's a link for a video on how to do the work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQPN...ature=youtu.be
These can be sourced a number of places I sourced mine here $80
CONNECTOR-, N-LINE - Terrys Jaguar Parts - JLM21109
Here's a good link if you diy
Mercedes-Benz 722.6 Transmission FAQ - Mercedes-Benz Forum
Here's a link for a video on how to do the work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQPN...ature=youtu.be
Last edited by jamdmyers; 02-28-2015 at 08:32 AM. Reason: add link
#16
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Perth Ontario Canada
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Sort of, but there is alot of grey area in between especially in new monitored systems. It's not just the 'fire' it's how quickly it fires and cleanly. Ungap'd or corrosion will cause poor spark performance and hence distorted combustion.
Stressed plugs will cause coil damage as well. Poor ignition can cause exhaust/cat issues. Many upstream adjustments occur because the o2 senor sees poor combustion.. this drives the injector pulse (fuel trims).
I'm not sure he's looking for hotter/bigger... Just a fully functioning compatible properly gap'd plug to get the proper performance.
Stressed plugs will cause coil damage as well. Poor ignition can cause exhaust/cat issues. Many upstream adjustments occur because the o2 senor sees poor combustion.. this drives the injector pulse (fuel trims).
I'm not sure he's looking for hotter/bigger... Just a fully functioning compatible properly gap'd plug to get the proper performance.
The OEM change intervals for these plugs appear by all accounts to be quite conservative. Plugs removed at or beyond their rated service life are almost always still serviceable from a physical and operational point of view. There's a story I posted I think in off topic about an acquaintance who ran a set of '100K' plugs for over 400K. The engine still ran fine, no misfires, no codes, no burnt coils.
#17
Your problem is the electrical connector coupler. Common 722.6 trans issue I just replaced mine (as well as filter and install of bluetops)
These can be sourced a number of places I sourced mine here $80
CONNECTOR-, N-LINE - Terrys Jaguar Parts - JLM21109
Here's a good link if you diy
Mercedes-Benz 722.6 Transmission FAQ - Mercedes-Benz Forum
Here's a link for a video on how to do the work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQPN...ature=youtu.be
These can be sourced a number of places I sourced mine here $80
CONNECTOR-, N-LINE - Terrys Jaguar Parts - JLM21109
Here's a good link if you diy
Mercedes-Benz 722.6 Transmission FAQ - Mercedes-Benz Forum
Here's a link for a video on how to do the work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQPN...ature=youtu.be
The book claims its a GKN 14HU Transmission.
There is a European AutoWerkes shop in Toledo OHIO Im considering @85 bucks an hour and for just changing fluid, filter and gasket cant cost too much I'm hoping? Should be a couple hour job Im thinking?
Sometimes its best to admit if the project is over my head.
#18
#19
Bob, you may be right. I know banking better then Jaguars for sure!
LOL !
The more I am reading it sure does sound like that 13 pin connector.
Either way, its get a new pan gasket and change.
ONLINE INFO
What Are The Common Fluid Leaks Of The 722.6 Transmission?
The two most common fluid leaks from this transmission are the 13-pin electric connector/spacer (pilot Bushing) and the shifter mechanism bellow. Between the two, 99% of the leaks are from the 13-pin connector.
I hope this repair wont cost me a ton of dollars !!??
LOL !
The more I am reading it sure does sound like that 13 pin connector.
Either way, its get a new pan gasket and change.
ONLINE INFO
What Are The Common Fluid Leaks Of The 722.6 Transmission?
The two most common fluid leaks from this transmission are the 13-pin electric connector/spacer (pilot Bushing) and the shifter mechanism bellow. Between the two, 99% of the leaks are from the 13-pin connector.
I hope this repair wont cost me a ton of dollars !!??
#20
If a shop wants to charge more than 1.5 to 2 hours labor for the gearbox connector replacement you need to find an HONEST shop. Jaguar warranty time is .9 hours.
One hour warranty time is a REAL WORLD time of 1.5 Hours!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
There is diagnostic time and 'drive-in-drive-out' so you will need to add some to that.
Manufacturers Warranty times are NOT REAL WORLD labor times. They reflect a labor op that is performed by factory trained mechanics that the Manufacturer is willing to pay to the franchise dealer for the repair. The dealers often 'make-up' the difference in lost revenue by charging exorbitant rates for 'customer-pay' repairs. It's a game of give-and-take'!!!!!!!!!!!!
There is a difference between fair and rip-off.
good luck
bob gauff
One hour warranty time is a REAL WORLD time of 1.5 Hours!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
There is diagnostic time and 'drive-in-drive-out' so you will need to add some to that.
Manufacturers Warranty times are NOT REAL WORLD labor times. They reflect a labor op that is performed by factory trained mechanics that the Manufacturer is willing to pay to the franchise dealer for the repair. The dealers often 'make-up' the difference in lost revenue by charging exorbitant rates for 'customer-pay' repairs. It's a game of give-and-take'!!!!!!!!!!!!
There is a difference between fair and rip-off.
good luck
bob gauff