My check engine light came up, and because of everything that's been going on lately I haven't been able to check the codes.

Symptoms are the following: Cold starts and sometimes even warm starts result in a rough idle that lasts about a minute.
The car feels a little sluggish.
Sometimes, specially when I've been crusing on the highway and decide to step on the gas to pass someone, the engine missfires before launching the car into warp speed.

I'm thinking spark plugs. Is that detectable by code scanner?

Oh, and I've gotten restricted performance message once, or twice for about a few minutes.

 

Doubt that it's plugs by itself, more likely coils or some kind of air leak or MAF problem.

We're going to need those codes.

 

Yeah, I'm gonna get the codes soon. I hope it's not coils.

 

coils aren't so bad and you usually will not see all go at the same time. I recently replaced all 8 of mine along with plugs just because of age/mileage for around $300 total

 

I don't have $300 to spend on them.

I got the following codes:

P0171
P0174
P0455

And of course P1000

 

I would say you have an intake leak. Look at the air box and check the air intake pipe to the throttle body for cracks.

 

I had that thing wrapped in black electric tape last year. It's possible some of it has come loose allowing the leak.

I think it is high time I bought a new one.

 

You have a high heat level in that area and the tape will fail to seal the pipe take it from one who knows. Replace the pipe or do what I did but keep in mind it will not last.

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

I hope this helps.

 

Last time I used some silicon and applied the tape continuosly with the grooves instead of across them. It lasted me a year.

I just called a few junkyards and none seem to have it. I might just end up redoing the repair if I can't find that duct anywhere.

 

+1 on Gus's recommendation and understand you don't have the 300 - I replaced all my coils just to do so. You will usually only have 1 fail which is $38 on ebay. How are your classes going?

air intake on ebay for $71

New OES Genuine Air Intake Hose Jaguar XK8 2002 2001 2000 99 1999 | eBay

 

Finals start next week!
I did win silver in my varsity judo competition, which means I'll be earning more mulah starting in august.

I'm gonna keep searching for that hose, if I can't find it, I'm doing what gus did.

 

Check the pipe before you start spending money.

 

If you cannot get a replacement pipe which is obviously the best option, use self amalgamating tape and not electricians tape. If you are not familiar with self amalgamating it kind of bonds to its self and it all becomes one piece, it has to be stretched between 30 and 50% of its own length to work correctly, however like all kinds of tape in this category, it is not heat resistant.
You could also try this:


OR


http://www.repairproducts.co.uk/page...FbMftAodGG0ASQ


OR


http://www.repairproducts.co.uk/page41.htm


I looked on ebay U.K and could not find a pipe, there were a few in the U.S though.


Good luck with your exams, hope you do well. My son is coming home tomorrow for a few days, he is doing his masters in music tech and has been told the uni will sponsor him for his doctorate next year, so its worth doing the work. Good luck with both car and studies.
Cheers,
Arty.

 

Gian - good luck on your exams and congrats on the silver medal - very cool. I hope you continue to do well with your studies.

 

Update:
I resealed the intake pipe, cleaned the MAF (which looked shiny new with no oil) and I reset the codes. That didn't solve my problems. Codes are back with the same behaviour.

I gave up on that for a while as I studied. Today however, I had some free time and decided to monkey around with the car and the forums. I started by researching what I thought was an unrelated issue: fuel smell in the car.

This had me check the EVAP system. Although I didn't perform the diagnostics test on the Canister purge valve, I did note that A it isn't clicking and B my fuel smell does not come from the front of the car, nor does it feel like it comes from the back or the trunk either. It smells to me like it comes from the A/C.

I kept searching the forums and toying with the Jag. I dismantled my boot and checked all hoses. Nothing there except that I found that the hose next to the small one that goes to the back of the tank was disconnected. My dad had taken the car in for servicing years ago because of the fuel smell. I reconnected the hose but noticed no improvements. I think it's sort of a escape hole to guide rainwater out of the car.

Finally, I found post 83 & 84 by knowledge on the thread titled "gas smell".

So, he got the same three codes as me as well as most of my symptoms. I googled a little bit and determined that the sputtering and misfires could be caused, among other things, by a malfunctioning fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter.

The price of the fuel filter for these cars, at $10 for the ACDelco seems like a steal. I reason, even if that's not it, I might as well change it because I'm pretty sure I've still got the 14 year old original.

Thoughts?

 

Is there a filter other than in the tank?

 

Changing what is probably your factory fuel filter will be inexpensive and a logical next step. Hope it solves your problem. Good luck....

 

Yes. The fuel filter is located under the car. Lie down just slight before the left side rear wheel. Look around down there you'll see a small canister that is connected to a fuel line and is next to a small heat shield. That's your fuel filter.

In the tank you don't have a filter, but you do have the fuel pump.


Jon, I thought so as well.

So I was checking and have come to a small conundrum. Should I buy the purolator or the AcDelco? The AcDelco from what I've heard is identical to the OEM one. I can find it for $15 including shipping at rockauto or $25 at a local autoparts store. I can find the purolator for $12 at a local autoparts store. Not sure if it's worth my time to wait for the AcDelco to arrive in a few days or just buy the local purolator and have it changed asap.

 

I caved and bought the purolator for $13 at autozone. I'm gonna change it real quick and refill the car. Hopefully that takes care of the problem.

Gonna have to wait until tomorrow it decided to rain at the worst possible moment.

 

I changed the fuel filter this morning. The old one was in fact the original. It even had OEM and Made in UK printed on it! The purolator I installed is nearly identical except for the colour. Speaking of the old filter, that old thing was as blocked as I was during the third physics test. No air could get through it when I blew on it. Also, some of the fuel coming out of it had a nasty black colour to it.

I'll be headed to the Shell gas station before taking my politics exam. I'll assess then if the situation has gotten any better.


Update: from my trip from the gas station, my butt dyno reports an improvement. The sputtering, stuttering, sluggishness and hesitance to accelerate due to fuel starvation seems eradicated. Although, the results are still inconclusive because I didn't get the chance to stretch its legs. I can at least say that from 0-30 she's responding much better. I also noticed that she's idling smoothly now.

A a side note, the CEL is still on, however, when I last had the codes read, I didn't turn it off. I guess I should either wait for this drive cycle to culminate or turn it off with an OBDII and see what happens.