Speaker Upgrade
#1
#2
Tim, I blew my woofers in the rear and replaced them with JL Audio's 6WO. The little woofers pack a good punch, although I am getting some speaker grill rattling noise with certain bass notes.
I am hoping to blow more speakers so I have an excuse to replace them too.
Tony Cottrell
Winston Salem, NC
97 XK8
05 XJ8 L
I am hoping to blow more speakers so I have an excuse to replace them too.
Tony Cottrell
Winston Salem, NC
97 XK8
05 XJ8 L
#3
#4
Hey there goldfinger here's what you got to work with...(i know this is an 03 schematic, but i think it remains true for your year)
I'll tell you what I did to my convertible. Only difference is you have full range speakers in the rear, plus that huge (being sarcastic here) subwoofer. You do have the full range shown as No. 1 in the rear, right? If not, no biggie, but you CAN add another speaker there for more range if you want. i'd recommend it.
Of course, up front, the ~6.25" midbass, and other odd sized supertweet in a-pillar, and tweet in the dash...all changed to 6.5" (with a little spacer in the door) and best place to put the new tweeter is in the dash...tried both, trust me, this is the best spot.
The other full range speaker in the rear is about the same size as the front midbass, so a 6.5" will fit. Go with components here also so the integrated tweeter does not bulge out the speaker panel. I tried this once, and found that mounting the tweeter next to worked much better for space restrictions. As for brands, I have personally stayed with Polk Audio, more specifically the MOMO series (MMC), though they recently changed the name. The silk tweeter is the only way to go...if you get a metal domed tweet, it'll scream up there in the dash...trust me again, I had one up there. I hear the SR series from Polk are FANTASTIC, and if you like good, clear vocals, you can't beat these. If I had the cash, I'd swap mine out in a heartbeat. Other good brands i've heard recommended include Focal and Boston Acoustics.
Now the 200mm = 7.87", so a direct swap for an 8" will require some custom work. Perhaps if it is mounted from below, you could swing it. I'm not sure if it is a free-air unit, most likely it is. Those are hard to come by in the aftermarket sector. If i were you, I'd try to (1) mount below the deck an 8" sealed unit, or (2) convert that 200mm hole into a port, and install a sub in the boot. Yah, that would kick!
I'll help w/any more specific questions you have, if I can.
I'll tell you what I did to my convertible. Only difference is you have full range speakers in the rear, plus that huge (being sarcastic here) subwoofer. You do have the full range shown as No. 1 in the rear, right? If not, no biggie, but you CAN add another speaker there for more range if you want. i'd recommend it.
Of course, up front, the ~6.25" midbass, and other odd sized supertweet in a-pillar, and tweet in the dash...all changed to 6.5" (with a little spacer in the door) and best place to put the new tweeter is in the dash...tried both, trust me, this is the best spot.
The other full range speaker in the rear is about the same size as the front midbass, so a 6.5" will fit. Go with components here also so the integrated tweeter does not bulge out the speaker panel. I tried this once, and found that mounting the tweeter next to worked much better for space restrictions. As for brands, I have personally stayed with Polk Audio, more specifically the MOMO series (MMC), though they recently changed the name. The silk tweeter is the only way to go...if you get a metal domed tweet, it'll scream up there in the dash...trust me again, I had one up there. I hear the SR series from Polk are FANTASTIC, and if you like good, clear vocals, you can't beat these. If I had the cash, I'd swap mine out in a heartbeat. Other good brands i've heard recommended include Focal and Boston Acoustics.
Now the 200mm = 7.87", so a direct swap for an 8" will require some custom work. Perhaps if it is mounted from below, you could swing it. I'm not sure if it is a free-air unit, most likely it is. Those are hard to come by in the aftermarket sector. If i were you, I'd try to (1) mount below the deck an 8" sealed unit, or (2) convert that 200mm hole into a port, and install a sub in the boot. Yah, that would kick!
I'll help w/any more specific questions you have, if I can.
#5
Wonder if someone could offer advice as I am planning a speaker upgrade in my 2001 convertible. I believe my systems is NOT premium (ie, there is no subwoofer) but I do have speakers in the rear, in the lower door panel and in the dash. I do not however have tweeters in the door.
I was thinking of 6.5" coaxials in the rear and the same brand in the front, but a component arrangement (ie. sub/mid in the door and tweeter in the dash). However, would the components come with a crossover that needs wiring in? I think that would be beyond me. I would like to just do a straight swap withour any wiring or hacking holes anywhere.
I also understand that I should be looking for 6.5" speakers, but will any size tweeter fit?
I was thinking of 6.5" coaxials in the rear and the same brand in the front, but a component arrangement (ie. sub/mid in the door and tweeter in the dash). However, would the components come with a crossover that needs wiring in? I think that would be beyond me. I would like to just do a straight swap withour any wiring or hacking holes anywhere.
I also understand that I should be looking for 6.5" speakers, but will any size tweeter fit?
#6
Go to this site if you plan on doing it yourself. Very helpful to get an idea of what is involved.
http://p4-8057.uk2net.com/jag/
And yes, component speaker sets usually come with crossovers. Kenwood and Alpine come to mind (can't recall model names, sorry).
http://p4-8057.uk2net.com/jag/
And yes, component speaker sets usually come with crossovers. Kenwood and Alpine come to mind (can't recall model names, sorry).
#7
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#8
If you've got room (i've done this) get components, put the woofer and tweeter side by side in the rear areas...and then put new components up front...mids in the doors (of course) and tweets in the dash. They work better there than in the a-pillar. You have the 'grilles' on the dash? just empty?
Last edited by H20boy; 03-29-2010 at 01:43 PM.
#9
#10
The hard part is getting all the splices beneath the arm rest in place. The yellow radio connectors are part of the overall wiring harness, which is wrapped with some kind of fabric electrical tape sheathing. I needed some slack and could not get anything down there to undo the sheathing, so I actually used a #10 scalpel (nothing else would fit in such a small space) to carefully cut the sheathing tape along side of the harness, just enough to break free some more slack. It was somewhat easier to make splices after that. There is still not much wire to work with no matter what you do.
Of course, you could just opt to take out the whole console and have all the room you need.
EDIT: This is exactly what I wound up doing when I put in a new head unit. It wasn't bad to get the entire console out and it would make the splicing MUCH easier. All you need is a phillips head and a torx wrench (forget the size - sorry; got a multi-set) and out she comes. Be careful removing the shifter bezel as that plastic is notoriously brittle.
Last edited by BurgXK8; 09-21-2010 at 12:18 PM.
#12
I suppose you could do a 'swap', only problem with components is every manufacturer has crossover points specifically suited for their woofers and tweets. It'll work, but not optimally, especially if the jag tweets are crossed over for more mids...then nothing will come out of your woofers/mids...and the new tweets will be overtaxed (and likely won't adequately produce the mids)
When in doubt, find the lead (before it gets crossed-over) in the console maybe? then install the crossovers you get with your new set, then run new wires into the dash and the doors...unless you can find them sooner and tap in to use. I know, I keep going back to 'run some wires'....sorry. I like perfection. Its a curse...
When in doubt, find the lead (before it gets crossed-over) in the console maybe? then install the crossovers you get with your new set, then run new wires into the dash and the doors...unless you can find them sooner and tap in to use. I know, I keep going back to 'run some wires'....sorry. I like perfection. Its a curse...
#13
If your tweets are already working, then someone already went into the center console, where the radio wiring harness meets the part that goes to the rest of the car. Ordinarily a car with empty tweeter spots (i.e., no premium sound system installed) has wires that lead to the center console and stop.
#15
This link http://p4-8057.uk2net.com/jag/ that so many people have recommended, has been dead for a few weeks now. Anybody have an alternate was to access the (apparently) very helpful info there? Got a new link, or a PDF? Sure would appreciate it.
Walt
Walt
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Kyotoboy (01-04-2011)
#18
Hi everyone. I'm going to attempt a front speaker installation in my 2002 XKR convertible. I've read through this thread and am going to follow the directions at
http://jag.vis1.co.uk/Jag/default.htm
I ordered my JL Audio TR600cxis online and they should be here in time for the weekend. Any advice before starting anyone???
Thanx in advance.
http://jag.vis1.co.uk/Jag/default.htm
I ordered my JL Audio TR600cxis online and they should be here in time for the weekend. Any advice before starting anyone???
Thanx in advance.