I thought the xkr came standard w the premium system....optional n the xk8. Pop the dash spkr cover 'mirror panel' with a sm screwdriver (i can use my fingertip) and take a peak. If its there, put the new tweet from your jbl set there, and see if the a-pillar supertweet overpowers the jbl...if it does, disconnect the supertweet and combine its lead to the dash tweet to get all upper freqs to it instead. Its a short run of speaker wire. Let us know how it goes.

Added...even if you only have the one tweet in the door...the best location for the new jbl tweet is in the dash...trust me. Speaker wire will be required.

 

Holy smokes Batman.

H2O, you're absolutely correct. I do have tweets in the dash (as you said) but nothing in the door pillars. OK so, I've ordered JL Audio TR600cxis and will install them in the doors and can I just keep the same tweets or do you recommend I replace them. If so with what?

Next Q. What do I have in the back and how can I check? I'm sure there is no subwoofer in that car. In fact I'm astonished to have separates up front.

Sorry for all of the stupid questions - I'm sure this has all been covered elsewhere.

I am so glad I asked though!!!

 

Wanted to get these uploaded...will return later this morning for some more 'content' here.

Wire color codes

Base system schematic

Premium system schematic

Ok, in my brief research, you should have the premium system standard on the xkr..but why the door a-pillar tweets are missing is beyond me..do the speaker grills have 'alpine' on them?

If there is an amp behind the carpet on the right (passenger) side in the boot, you're in luck. Not only does that confirm you have the premium, the sub will be there, and if its not working, try to reconnect, or if its damaged (blown) you can replace with another 'free-air' sub. The guys in the XJ8-XJR section, similar model years, have found some good free-air subs that work. For your reading pleasure..

Link 1 Link 2

I think a good substitute free-air, or infinite baffle 8" would be JL Audio's ZF800-CW, designed for free air use. It can be found relatively inexpensively here.

Before I forget, your question about the 2-way speakers up front. Since you have components up front, it would be best that you put those 2-ways in the rear panels instead. Purchase the 3-way equivalents (same series of speaker line - $100 from what I could find quickly online) and put the midbass/woofer in the door, and the tweet in the dash. Crossovers you receive from the components can be used, but you'll need to combine the signals from the original amp (since that's where the crossovers are - built in) and then go thru JL audio's supplied crossovers. If not, it won't be 'totally' suited to your new speakers with the frequency splits, but you may not be able to tell.

hope that helps, and do follow up with any new developments.

 

Hi again....wow schematic diagrams???

First of all thanks again for all the info. I examined and reexamined the system schematics and it seems like I just have the base system. There is no amp in the trunk behind the carpet so ...

I haven't taken off the door panels yet so don't know what's there but I did snap a pic of my tweets for you. (I'll attach) They are Philips (are they tweeters?). Is that normal?

In the schematics, it mentions "LH side FASCIA speaker" Is that referring to the dash tweeter?

Next question. If there are components up front, there must be a crossover somewhere in the system ... if I just put in the JL Audio TR600cxis in the doors, won't they automatically get the bass and mids only and the highs will go up to the dash? Then getting better speakers for the back?

Any thoughts will be appreciated.

 

Yes, yes, and yes


If there is a crossover, it should show this on the schematic. My car did not have the premium sound system but as H2Oboy pointed out, the speaker grilles and wiring are there regardless. I simply connected the tweeters from the JLs in the dash tweets, ignored the door tweeter spots (no wiring was there anyway) and hooked up the midrange part of the JLs in the main door slots. It worked great, though my next project will be to properly hook up the amp so that it does more than just run the sub (I installed a Rockford Fosgate amp into the stock location (?) above the CD changer). The CD changer is still sitting there, incidentally, doing nothing but waiting for the next owner as I no longer use CDs with either Pandora or an iPod connected to the new head unit.

Good luck!

 

Burg is correct. I'm glad we finally confirmed your 'lack' of the premium system.

To that direction, the deck must be doing the crossover...OR, each speaker has a high pass / low-pass filter on it. I would check a full range speaker on a bare wire to see if that is the case. If it is, you'll need to use the included JL Audio crossovers and run a little speaker wire. If not, just swap midrange/woofer and tweeter.

Getting bass to the rear should be easy too. You've got the hole in the rear deck, you just need to either install a powered sub in the boot, or keep it 'stock' by adding that infinite baffle in the deck, and mounting a small (200W or so) mono ampwhere the old one was. Take the speaker level signal from the rear, and run them into the amps high level input, then to your new sub. I like to get amplifiers that have a wired gain control in addition to the built-in crossover and gain, so that I can mount the small knob in the driver's area for those adjustments you need listening to certain types of music, or sources...they just need different bass volume.

Sounds like you are making progress, looking forward to your updates.

 

Matt covered most everything,the only thing I did different was that I left the tweets in the door.
Here is the thread;https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=40495
My XKR had the premium system so I left the crossovers out.
Since I did the above,I took the tweets(they are more like a small midrange) that I removed from the dash and mounted them above the woofers in the rear and wired them into the unused rear speaker circuit that is used for the coupes,then I could control the balance from the factory head.I am more that happy with the outcome.
But like all of us I had to listen to Matt and added a 200 watt amp for the subs:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=41280
The system rocks.
My thanks to Matt for all is knowledge and help to all of us in upgrading their sound systems.

 

^thanks eagle, i appreciate that! Im glad to help, as i enjoy these types of upgrades.

 

hey h20boy, do we have to add amplifier for the sub? or it is already supported with the system?

 

If you have the base system onin, you will have to add an amplifier to any subwoofer addition. If the system is a premium system, there is power there at the amplifier, and the gain is controlled by the head deck, but it may not be adequate power for a beefier subwoofer, if it is replaced. Others have added a very small amp to do the job.

 

Big Thanks H2o, I printed all the diagram from you and for sure it will be a big help for me upgrading my sound system.

 

Hey Guys,

First of all, I haven't forgotten about this project but its just been too damn cold here in Japan to do anything. All my work will be outdoors so I have to wait a wee bit before doing any of the fun stuff BUT it seems like there might be a lull in the cold this weekend so I might start.

Thanks to H2O's advice, I'm going to put the JL Audio TR600cxis in the rear instead. I have little to no bass there now and hopefully things will improve as there are only the Phillips (LJA 4141AA) speaks there. If this doesn't pan out, I'll be putting in a sub and amp.

I've ordered a set of component Polk Audio (DB6501) for the front. I'm assuming I'll just put 'em straight in (Woofs in the doors and tweets in the dash) without worrying about crossovers.

I'd like to say thanks to H2O and BurgXk8 for all the info.






More Q's

I'm thinking about putting some sound deadening in the doors and possibly the trunk. Any advice on that?

 

eagle put some in his doors: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=40495

I'm thinking of doing the doors and tweets this spring when it warms up. I think the stock drivers door speaker is cracked. Eventually I'd like to do the subs too.

 

You're welcome.

As for sound deadening material like Dynamat, it makes a world of difference, especially in a smaller, flimsy car (like a Ford Focus, Toyota Echo, etc.) but it will help the sound in any car. Also makes for a quieter ride overall, if adding a bit of extra weight is not a problem.

Completely removing and properly replacing the door panels can be tricky, but taking the rear seat out to lay Dynamat across the back should be relatively simple as those parts come out easily. Effectiveness will depend how far you want to take it and how much time and money you have, as Dynamat isn't cheap from what I gather.

Good luck.

 

wish you luck kyoto!

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=40495

kyoto,

Sorry to jump in late but just in case you do have a premium system I would just like to point out that the circuit going to the rear speakers have a clipper on them for the bass range,even with a 2way JL that you are putting the only sound that will come out will be in the low range.To see what I am talking about turn on you radio and fade it all the way to the rear and you will hear what I am talking about. I would buy a good set of subs and if you need more power to push the subs,add a amp.

If you are looking for less expensive subs some of the other guys have used CVT65 kicker which cost about 50% less then the JL's.

To really get a base punch out of my new subs I added a small Kicker Sub.I think the reason that I needed to add more power is that the JL's were 4 ohms and the factory ones were 2 Ohm.I am glad I did add the amp,it realy did make a difference.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=41280

You asked about sound deadening which I did to the doors, I used Dynamat which is not hard to install if you get the rollers,follow instructions and have a nice warm place to put it on.I would do the doors first,that is where you will improve the sound coming out from the door speakers plus it will cut down the road noise.When I pulled the back seat there was sound deadening material under the seats. Behind the back rest you have the gas tank etc which will keep most of the noise from coming in the cockpit. So I decided not to spend the extra money.

The last thing I did was mount a 3.5 inch speaker above the woofer and wire it into a rear speaker circuit that was not used in the converts but in the coupes. This gave a full range output to those speakers plus I could control the fade and balance from the factory head and amp.I also didn't use the crossovers that came with the new speaker component set because they are internal in the factory amp.

There is a link above showing what I did.

Hope this adds to some input for your project,good luck.

 

eagle makes a good point, stock-wise...you won't get full range if you just swap the sub for the 2-way coaxial speaker using the existing sub connector. Looking at his thread, that is a really good way to get both a boost on the sub output, and still get full range to your installed speakers. I didn't consider that route...but it works. If you haven't got a large JTIS schematic of your car, let me know thru PM...I can pdf the pages for you.