Sometimes you get luck and can finally show that your thoughts on a subject are properly right.
It will not prove I am on to something to some but they will have to admit, in this case things look to be in the better place if this orientation is applied.
I received a set of mounts complete. As luck would have it, the large donuts were still in a thin state but not completely flat, most are crushed flat.
I have had a couple of friends install mine and other mounts and we worked on the orientation of the top of the spring. Now TTG in England has stated he had luck with the end of the coil towards the outside of the car. Not going to refute his findings but in a couple of case's where the center of the shock started to move after a short period of time, we changed the spring to have the full coil to the outside. This worked and in one case the shock center moved back in place, only a small amount of movement in that one. OK, so let's try and install all the future ones in the configuration.
Here is what I found on this set.
The large donut was much more evenly crushed, (they all get crushed), around the whole top of the mount on the one with the spring solid coil to the outside. The one where the spring end was toward the outside had a definite wider edge towards the outside of the car and the center was moved towards the thinner inside edge.
You are going to ask, how do I know the inside or the outside of a mount off the car? Unless someone takes the mount apart, there is only one way the three studs to be placed in the top inner fender holes and the bottom of the shock be lined up for the lower control arm will fit without having to turn the lower part of the shock. How is that, well, if you lay the shock down on the floor with the bottom hole running with the floor, then only one stud will line up at the top (it's slightly off to the left or in line with the lift side of the shock main stud. That top stud would go to the inside hole on the inner fender, and you should notice it is in a 90-degree line with the top of the shock bolt in the center and the other two mounting studs.
You can get it real close this way and put the spring where you want it, depends on what you think is right, but this will get you so only a slight adjustment may be needed at the lower A arm bracket to get the lower bolt in the shock to align. Always make it a slide in situation, no forcing it sideways should be used. Note the last picture on alignment for installing.

 

To add to your insight, I just replaced everything on my drivers side of my 97 xk8(both ball joints, ALL bushings upper and lower, tie rod end and sway bar end link.) I also did a new shock and used PHOBMANS upper mount bushing kit. Anyway….
when I put the shock and coil spring back together, I referenced my pictures of disassembly and got it pretty darn close, but after installing the shock the lower mount was a tad off, enough where it bothered me but I was able to get the bolt on with minimal effort. After a quick ride I checked to see if it “righted” its self….it did not. Here’s what I did to get it right; with everything installed I jacked up car and removed the wheel. One jack stand under front crossmember, one under drivers side point. Both jack stands were holding car. I then positioned my jack with a block of wood under lower wishbone as close to lower shock mount as possible. I then jacked up the lower wishbone to compress the shock and coil spring as much as possible (it did lift off the jack stands a tad but they were not moved in case of a failure/ fall). Once jacked to the point of no more compression of
shock/coil spring, I took the shock top nut LOOSE, NOT OFF!!! I also loosened lower shock bolt and put a big pair of vise grips on the lower shock mount(not impeding the bolt) and gave it a good twist in the proper direction to line it up better, then while holding it with my knee in place I used my torque wrench and socket to retighten top shock nut. Let go of
vise grips and I was perfectly in line. Retighten lower shock bolt and good to go. Easier said than done, and a buddy would have been better but you do what you gotta do.
the reason my lower mount was a hair off was the way I re compressed it in my press, I had made marks and took pics but when re pressing it I couldn’t see the lower mount, I had a piece of box steel with bolt through it keeping the shock from flying off the press and killing me, or taking out a panel or window on the car.

 

I understand the aim, but there was no point in loosening the top damper nut. Any twisting of the lower damper tube will simply rotate it on the axis of the damper shaft, that shaft is not about to turn within top mount whether loose or not.
The compression of the spring assembly also increased lower spring seat load making the realignment harder, not easier.

 

Wayne enlightened me on how to index these springs when I installed his mounts last October. This made perfect logic to me. From time to time, I visually check the concentricity of of the upper shock studs / upper mounts. ( still looks concentric) I pulled my notes from that install and found that I had nothing on the shock bottom bolt hole orientation and that it should "slide in" the A -arm bracket.
(I think it appropriate while your at it to also check what Wayne posted, concerning the upper shock rod not binding and indeed is bottoming out with the upper mount.)
Here are my notes with the "slide-in" added:

Always check that shock mount bottoms out without binding with upper piston rod mating surface BEFORE installation.
index spring top starts inline with most inboard mount stud. Tighten three upper shock studs and lower shock bolt under load after driving car back and forth to settle suspension.
Only a slight adjustment may be needed at the lower A arm bracket to get the lower bolt in the shock to align. Always make it a slide in situation, no forcing it sideways should be used.