Squeaky brakes - cheaper Options for 04 XKR ...Thanks
#22
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,254
Received 2,193 Likes
on
1,359 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
have you bothered to look and measure how much pad material you have left? 2mm inside or outside pad is the bare minimum to let them get down to. If you have more youre just dealing with glazed pads from light/frequent aka (girl braking
)
try warming your brakes first with a few medium brake apps. then at moderate 20-25mph is generally fine, panic brake like a kid ran in front of you. do this forward AND reverse. If you cant drive that quickly in reverse in a straight line, go to a empty parking lot(without light poles) and do this. I useallly do this a few times each way on customer cars depending on how bad they are. But keep this in mind, when you go right back to braking like you always have for years, youll get the same results youve always gotten, squeeking brakes. So change your braking habits, increase your following diastance and take your foor off the gas and let the car slow down then when you use the brakes, USE THE BRAKES, you dont have to be totally aggressive, but use them firmly, not lightly that glazes and as youre almost to a stop, proportionatly let up brake pressure so the car eaaasillyyy stops that last couple feet without the hard stop and rock back. How do you think that I can drive someones car that they coomplain the brakes always squeek on them and I get in it with them and drive, and they never do...2 differant drivers, same car, same brakes, 2 totally differant results...hmmmmmmmm
And I ask them, "are you bothered by the way I brake, does it not feel smooth?" and they generally respond no it didnt really notice, you maybe came to a stop sign faster than I would have(braking lightly and earlier) but no, it seemed fine...Well there ya go, change what you've always done and youll get a differant result(works in others areas of your life too)
![Smile](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
try warming your brakes first with a few medium brake apps. then at moderate 20-25mph is generally fine, panic brake like a kid ran in front of you. do this forward AND reverse. If you cant drive that quickly in reverse in a straight line, go to a empty parking lot(without light poles) and do this. I useallly do this a few times each way on customer cars depending on how bad they are. But keep this in mind, when you go right back to braking like you always have for years, youll get the same results youve always gotten, squeeking brakes. So change your braking habits, increase your following diastance and take your foor off the gas and let the car slow down then when you use the brakes, USE THE BRAKES, you dont have to be totally aggressive, but use them firmly, not lightly that glazes and as youre almost to a stop, proportionatly let up brake pressure so the car eaaasillyyy stops that last couple feet without the hard stop and rock back. How do you think that I can drive someones car that they coomplain the brakes always squeek on them and I get in it with them and drive, and they never do...2 differant drivers, same car, same brakes, 2 totally differant results...hmmmmmmmm
And I ask them, "are you bothered by the way I brake, does it not feel smooth?" and they generally respond no it didnt really notice, you maybe came to a stop sign faster than I would have(braking lightly and earlier) but no, it seemed fine...Well there ya go, change what you've always done and youll get a differant result(works in others areas of your life too)
![Smile](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The following users liked this post:
wcnesta (06-04-2012)
#24
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
What about these rotors ? Should I buy these ones they appear to be inexpensive. Under $150 a pair.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JAGUA...item2c577ba284
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JAGUA...item2c577ba284
Last edited by jagxkrtoofast; 05-10-2011 at 07:16 PM.
#26
#28
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,254
Received 2,193 Likes
on
1,359 Posts
#29
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you drive a high performance car, you have to be able and willing to spend high performance money.
Allthough second hand prices may be cheap, Running cost can be high!
be happy you don't have a Ferrari or a Porsche! Their brakes are even more expensive.
There are NO cheap aftermarket brakes/pads for the Brembos
For you, just get the pads only, the brembo discs should last. (Unless the previous owner fitted some elcheapos which damaged the discs)
Allthough second hand prices may be cheap, Running cost can be high!
be happy you don't have a Ferrari or a Porsche! Their brakes are even more expensive.
There are NO cheap aftermarket brakes/pads for the Brembos
For you, just get the pads only, the brembo discs should last. (Unless the previous owner fitted some elcheapos which damaged the discs)
Last edited by Jochem00; 05-12-2011 at 01:18 PM.
#30
#31
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have received the brake pads I mentioned earlier in this thread. They are Ceramic pads from KRIC.
Attached is a photo of the XKR (Non-Brembo) pad next to the pad for my 2006 VW Touareg. These are both front brake pads. The pad on the left is the Jag pad and the one on the right is the VW pad. I know my VW weighs more, but that is a huge difference.
That being said, the braking of the XKR seems acceptable for the type and size of the car. I am only changing the XKR brakes because I wanted a pad that produces less dust, and these are ceramic and were only $40 for a set.
I hope to get them on in the next week.
Attached is a photo of the XKR (Non-Brembo) pad next to the pad for my 2006 VW Touareg. These are both front brake pads. The pad on the left is the Jag pad and the one on the right is the VW pad. I know my VW weighs more, but that is a huge difference.
That being said, the braking of the XKR seems acceptable for the type and size of the car. I am only changing the XKR brakes because I wanted a pad that produces less dust, and these are ceramic and were only $40 for a set.
I hope to get them on in the next week.
The following users liked this post:
wcnesta (06-04-2012)
#32
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,254
Received 2,193 Likes
on
1,359 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
brembo pads and rotors are differant that standard front and rear. Many times ive found that when searching parts houses list the r version diferantly as if they all have brembos. They all do not and this is and option. If you put in xk8, and then xkr and get a differant part number then this is the case.... You can have standard non brembos on a r. You evidently do have brembos so just buy pads, it doubt you really need rotors at this time if youre trying to save money, then do the pads, front, rear or both depending on if theyre worn to 2mm or not
The following users liked this post:
wcnesta (06-04-2012)
#33
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I was told by 2 dealers I needed all new rotors and pads, and wow $$$, on my wife's '04 XKR. I pulled the Brembro specs (and a mic them), the rotors still had 50% of their life left. Our shop mech installed only new pads (Mintex) and did not turn the rotors (they were as flat and true as they come). I got a terrible squeal, he forgot to install the anti-squeal shims. After that not a problem at all. Been 2 years now and all is still fine. FYI- there are a lot of listings that say the rotors/pads will fit an XKR, but they do not, UNLESS it says for the Brembo Option, stay clear. All USA XKR for 2004 had the Brembo option, maybe europe did not and that is why the confusion. I believe (by memory) it is a 355mm rotor for the front and 335mm for the rear. This are larger than the non-brembo option.
The following users liked this post:
wcnesta (06-04-2012)
#36
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You have Brembos if the calipers have slender pins which go through holes in the pad backing plates, with small hairpins locking them in. If you are used to looking at calipers, you can see that there are two pistons on each side of the caliper with a bleeder screw at the top of the caliper on each side as well, with a crossover pipe for brake fluid connected at the bottom of the caliper. I replaced the rotors because the rotors were grooved and new pads will not seat on rotors with hills and valleys on them. I got the rotors from SNG Barrett for about $275 a pair (cheap). I got Hawk Ceramic pads from ebay for about $75 a set. I painted the outside of the hubs of the rotors with spray can caliper paint to keep them from rusting and looking bad . These pads are great but they need warming up for full performance, and they do squeak when cold. I can feel the change in braking force during the first stop of the day as the pads warm up, they bite progressively faster.
#37
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I had the brakes done about a year ago, but the mechanic said I didn't need new rotors. I don't do much driving, sort distances on city streets. My brakes squeak terribly. I certainly don't need to redo the brakes, how do I get rid of the squeak or do I just live with it the brakes are working fine.
#38
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have a 2001 XKR that had the brakes changed to Jag/Brembos from a Silverstone. The pads and rotors are new and it squeaks really loud at slow speeds on deceleration. I know some brake pad systems come with a copper spacer that eliminates squeaking. Could it be that someone forgot to order these? I tried "scuffing" the rotors and the pads. No difference.Would metallic pads possibly help? Any help is appreciated.
#39
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
On the Brembo caliper, the pads should be secured by 2 pins, and further held in place by a springy metal blade to help with the rattling. For high frequency squealing, have you tried the rubbery red goop from the parts store? I believe it fits behind the pad, where the piston pressure is applied. Separately, I believe folks have also mentioned caliper grease for the pins and the rest of the hardware. There is also a screwed-in steel part where the pads rest, deep into the caliper. I believe that section can use some greasing as well. Probably going to be a situation where you have to take care of the different spots until the sound goes away.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
#40