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Starts and shuts down in 2 seconds - Resolved

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  #61  
Old 10-03-2022, 10:34 AM
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I am still here, was waiting for a few days for all of the suggestions to come in and have the Mongoose cable now. I am having trouble getting my computer to see the Mongoose cable even though it says it is connected to the virtual machine I have a message in the bottom lefthand corner that says it is not. Trying to work through that.

 
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Old 10-03-2022, 10:38 AM
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It runs smoothly and then shuts off just like the key was turned off. The day before all of this started it was running wonderfully on a road trip and the next morning I went into the garage to start it and this happened. This is why I don't suspect things like air leaks, and all of the normal idiosyncrasy's of these cars. I have maintained it for 8 years and been through all of the common things that come up. All suggestions appreciated though.
 
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Old 10-03-2022, 10:47 AM
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The only code that has been triggered as i described in the initial post and what led me to the ECM change.
The only code I get now is ABS failure and a No Cruise message which I feel is incidental.
I am having difficulty with connecting the Mongoose it keeps giving me a message it is not connected to the virtual machine. Lights are flashing on it but it will not read the modules.

 
  #64  
Old 10-03-2022, 02:25 PM
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There are relays in the car that if the relay fails it will shut down major components in the car. Try swapping relays in the door fuse boxes for known good ones, or at least open the relays and inspect... They are very old at this point.

I don't have the fuse charts handy but try replacing the fuse for the BCM in the door jam. Even if it looks good, it can be bad or intermittently bad, as with the relays. All it takes is a spot of carbon that is growing everytime the key is turned to on to reek havoc.
 
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  #65  
Old 10-03-2022, 02:44 PM
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I think your version of VMWare must be newer than mine and I'm not seeing a USB menu tab in the upper left corner. Try hovering your cursor over the icons in the upper left corner to see if any of those will open a menu where you have the option to "Attach" the Mongoose.
 

Last edited by Don B; 10-03-2022 at 02:49 PM.
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  #66  
Old 10-04-2022, 05:27 AM
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Perhaps the data link OBD connector is still giving issues unless you've sourced a replacement? There are two B+ connections on pins 9 and 16, the latter is fed by its own fuse F13 (5A) in the driver side fascia fusebox. The other is ignition-switched via F3 (5A) in the trunk fusebox.

Here's the video I mentioned showing a test for spark. My mistake:- Gus used an inline spark checker rather than a noid lamp. It's clear there's nothing doing on the first start attempt:

 
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  #67  
Old 10-04-2022, 08:20 AM
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Just a thought. Does the 2004 have a main shut off (inertia?) switch? On the '97, it's located in the driver's side dashboard fusebox.

Has the OP pressed it?
 
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Old 10-04-2022, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Truck Graphics
Just a thought. Does the 2004 have a main shut off (inertia?) switch? On the '97, it's located in the driver's side dashboard fusebox.

Has the OP pressed it?
Yes, the 2004 also has an inertia switch adjacent to the left hand fuse box. The switch is normally closed, but opens when activated. My recollection is that it inhibits the starter and fuel pump and unlocks all the doors, among other things, so if the OP had somehow activated it, I don't think he could start the engine at all.

Regarding Jay's mention of the relays, as they age, the coils in the original brown Jaguar relays are known to become weak and unable to reliably latch the relay contacts. I test them with a 9-volt battery. If a relay won't latch 10 successive times on 9 volts, it's coil is weak and the relay should be replaced. Replacement relays must have a resistor and/or diode wired in parallel with the coil to protect the control module switching transistors from the large voltage surge that occurs when the coil's magnetic field collapses when the relay is de-energized. For the 4-pin relays, a good substitute is Bosch 0332019103, a 30-amp relay with the proper suppressor resistor in parallel with the coil.

Off the top of my head, critical relays include the Ignition Positive relays in each fuse box, the Starter relay, the EMS control relay, the Ignition Coil relay, the Throttle Motor relay, the Oxygen Sensor Heater relays, and maybe the Auxiliary Positive relay. The relay locations and identifications are shown on a page near the front of the Electrical Guide I posted the link to earlier.

Cheers,

Don
 

Last edited by Don B; 10-04-2022 at 09:27 AM.
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  #69  
Old 10-04-2022, 10:17 AM
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My thinking is, given compression on all 8 cylinders is somewhat unlikely to vanish suddenly after a couple of seconds, that either the spark or fuel is shutting off abruptly. Whatever is causing it is reset next time the motor is started.

The fuel injector relay and (other than for what the EG describes as 'early production vehicles') the ignition coil relay are both deleted on the 4.2.
 

Last edited by michaelh; 10-04-2022 at 02:17 PM. Reason: clarify 'ignition relay'
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Old 10-04-2022, 01:25 PM
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I am looking to add some additional information to my original thread without starting a new one, how do I do that?
 
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Old 10-04-2022, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by daro31
I am looking to add some additional information to my original thread without starting a new one, how do I do that?
If you don't see an Edit button available on your original post, just post the additional information in a new post in this thread.
 
  #72  
Old 10-04-2022, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by michaelh
The fuel injector relay and (other than for what the EG describes as 'early production vehicles') the ignition relay are both deleted on the 4.2.
You probably mean the ignition coil relay - there are definitely Ignition Positive relays in an '04 because earlier this week I replaced a weak driver's side fuse box Ignition Positive relay in a U.S. '04 (probably equivalent to a U.K. '03). I'm fairly certain there are also Ignition Positive relays in the engine bay and trunk/boot fuse boxes.
 
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  #73  
Old 10-04-2022, 01:43 PM
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I hooked up an I-Scan tool and got all of the readings, it seems to be reading well through the OBDII connection and shows current temperature and air volumes at zero so I am assuming that the fuel pressure at 46.6 PSI is an accurate reading as well.
 
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Old 10-04-2022, 01:48 PM
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Adequate fuel pressure was verified by the Jaguar tech and I just hooked up I-Soft diagnostic tool and got a fuel pressure reading of 46.6 pounds
 
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Old 10-04-2022, 01:52 PM
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I was able to get the British Diagnostics SSD Mongoose software running. It found the car VIN number and downloaded the information on the car from the ECM, it looks to be valid.
 
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Old 10-04-2022, 02:01 PM
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Car can be immediately restarted, over and over again.
 
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Old 10-04-2022, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Don B
You probably mean the ignition coil relay
I did, sorry. I've amended my post.
 
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  #78  
Old 10-04-2022, 02:46 PM
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Default I have tried a few things today

Sorry, I could not find an edit button to append this to my original post.
First of all, let me thank everyone for all of the time they have put into suggestions, this group is wonderfully supportive, and we will get to the bottom of this thing.

Screen shot of Mongoose diagnostic

I got the Mongoose Jaguar SSD software running today and it downloaded the car info correctly, showing VIN and all the car options. It showed a number of modules operating correctly and a few that the car may not have. The important ones got a green check mark. It did not show anything that I could chase after in the diagnostics.
I borrowed a mates I-Soft diagnostic tool it showed no faults, and I was able to clear the ABS fault light. I made a small pin and terminal to check the continuity of the OBDII connections and they all were connected. Now the only error code I have is P1000 which is normal if you have been unable to do a drive cycle. I went through all of the fuses pulled them all and checked for any failure mode. All fuse boxes are clean and dry.
The I-Soft tool also showed fuel pressure at 46.6 PSI and engine temp at 66º which is the garage temperature, so I am assuming that it is running correctly. I recorded a short video of the way it starts then stops but I don't seem to be able to upload it here.
Attached is the readout from the Mongoose software showing the module status, if anyone know if any of the one that are not green checked are important, please let me know.
 
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Old 10-04-2022, 03:08 PM
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Thank you for that long writeup, I have avoided this list until I got the Mongoose working and then confirmed the findings with the I-Soft diagnostic tool. It just seems odd that the car could be running so well and then suffer from one of the things on your list at the same time as the ECM failure. But it is a list, and I will get started on it.
 
  #80  
Old 10-04-2022, 06:04 PM
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The module communication chart is very interesting because it shows that all the modules with green check marks are communicating and have no diagnostic trouble codes stored.

It seems almost impossible that a vehicle with your symptoms could have no powertrain or network codes stored! You don't even have the P1611 that you had at one time.

This makes me wonder if something is causing the power to the ECM to be interrupted before it can store any codes. I seem to recall that there are certain failure modes that prompt the ECM to shut off its own power as a self-protection measure. I'll have to think about what those circumstances are. Can anyone else recall reading about the ECM shutting itself down?

EDIT: I also wonder if the new ECM has a problem with its EPROMs and is not able to, for example, read fueling/ignition maps, or to store DTCs. I just took a look at your original post and was reminded of the P0603 KAM Error. You would think the new ECM should have resolved that, but I wonder if something connected to the ECM can cause an error in its internal memories?

Another question that arises is whether your battery has been discharged by the repeated starts?
 

Last edited by Don B; 10-04-2022 at 09:27 PM.
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