STOP the oil leaks!
#1
STOP the oil leaks!
Just when I get one leak fixed another arose up. Actually i have the NIKASIL engine issue and had a lot of oil that collected in my air box. After doing some custom hoses around the air box I have added a catcher that works great. Now, i have some other leaks that I had looked at from my shop and they told me that the valve covers are leaking a little. I was told then that they could fix them but it will happen again as the oil pressure is to great for for the gaskets to keep sealed. Is that true? I think that I can replace the gaskets but I can't find anything on the procedures or if there is anything else to change while i have the covers off. I have seen something that tells me about o rings or something like that. I do not want to drop oil everywhere I go... that is not what a JAG should do. Please, any info would help me greatly.
#2
#3
I think what the shop has concluded is that there is too much blow-by in the cylinders for the vent system to handle it thereby causing the cover seals to start leaking. The oil in the air intake box is a strong indication of that. I don't think there is anything you can do to stop that on that engine short of major expense that is just not worth it. If I were in that position, and I am with an early 2000, and it was my baby. I would look at a good used engine. There are lots of them around. If you are really lucky and look hard you may be able to find a good late production 2002 engine. In late 2002 they had already updated the timing chain system to the same as the 2003 model cars/engines. So your wories would be over and in the process of changing the engine you could update all the other issues such as plastic thermostat housing, hoses, etc.
It would be fun.
EZDriver 2000 XK8
It would be fun.
EZDriver 2000 XK8
#5
I had oil in my airbox, and spent a few months worrying about blow-by and whether my engine was shot. It wasn't. Have a look at THIS THREAD, and take a peek to see if the oil separator is in place under your right-hand valve cover.
In my case, some very smart techs saw the oil in my airbox and went straight to Nikasil and blow-by as the fatal causes. They were wrong (this time), and there was a simple, inexpensive fix.
As far as the leaking gaskets, that's probably all they are...leaking gaskets that need to be replaced.
Don't panic.
Last edited by The Coupe; 05-29-2012 at 03:31 PM.
#6
Well spoken advice
Hey Turbo-
I had oil in my airbox, and spent a few months worrying about blow-by and whether my engine was shot. It wasn't. Have a look at THIS THREAD, and take a peek to see if the oil separator is in place under your right-hand valve cover.
In my case, some very smart techs saw the oil in my airbox and went straight to Nikasil and blow-by as the fatal causes. They were wrong (this time), and there was a simple, inexpensive fix.
As far as the leaking gaskets, that probably all they are...leaking gaskets that need to be replaced.
Don't panic.
I had oil in my airbox, and spent a few months worrying about blow-by and whether my engine was shot. It wasn't. Have a look at THIS THREAD, and take a peek to see if the oil separator is in place under your right-hand valve cover.
In my case, some very smart techs saw the oil in my airbox and went straight to Nikasil and blow-by as the fatal causes. They were wrong (this time), and there was a simple, inexpensive fix.
As far as the leaking gaskets, that probably all they are...leaking gaskets that need to be replaced.
Don't panic.
#7
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#8
Nikasil issues are really no longer an issue. If your car didn't fail back in the late 90's, early 00's, your likely better off with Nikasil coated cylinder walls as they're more durable than non-Nikasil coated cylinders...
#9
I know we are well past the winter months, but when I started driving mine after three months of not running during the winter, both valve covers leaked on to the exhaust manifolds. This was especially embarrassing at stoplights, where there would be wisps of smoke from around the bonnet - er, hood... Anyway, an oil change with Engine Restore and it appears that the valve cover gaskets have softened/swelled and sealed again. No oil leaking at all now, no dripping and burning, no spots on the garage floor.
#10
I think what the shop has concluded is that there is too much blow-by in the cylinders for the vent system to handle it thereby causing the cover seals to start leaking. The oil in the air intake box is a strong indication of that. I don't think there is anything you can do to stop that on that engine short of major expense that is just not worth it. If I were in that position, and I am with an early 2000, and it was my baby. I would look at a good used engine. There are lots of them around. If you are really lucky and look hard you may be able to find a good late production 2002 engine. In late 2002 they had already updated the timing chain system to the same as the 2003 model cars/engines. So your wories would be over and in the process of changing the engine you could update all the other issues such as plastic thermostat housing, hoses, etc.
It would be fun.
EZDriver 2000 XK8
It would be fun.
EZDriver 2000 XK8
I am trying to put off the new engine as long as I can
Hey Turbo-
I had oil in my airbox, and spent a few months worrying about blow-by and whether my engine was shot. It wasn't. Have a look at THIS THREAD, and take a peek to see if the oil separator is in place under your right-hand valve cover.
In my case, some very smart techs saw the oil in my airbox and went straight to Nikasil and blow-by as the fatal causes. They were wrong (this time), and there was a simple, inexpensive fix.
As far as the leaking gaskets, that's probably all they are...leaking gaskets that need to be replaced.
Don't panic.
I had oil in my airbox, and spent a few months worrying about blow-by and whether my engine was shot. It wasn't. Have a look at THIS THREAD, and take a peek to see if the oil separator is in place under your right-hand valve cover.
In my case, some very smart techs saw the oil in my airbox and went straight to Nikasil and blow-by as the fatal causes. They were wrong (this time), and there was a simple, inexpensive fix.
As far as the leaking gaskets, that's probably all they are...leaking gaskets that need to be replaced.
Don't panic.
DO they make a repalcement breather port? Is that attached to the oil separator?
Is replacing the gaskets a reasonable do it yourself job?
Thanks to all as always... there is no better site out there that helps like this one.. everyone is willing to aid anywhere they can!
#11
I did go to the part breather ( i think that is what it is called) and tried to clean it but I ended up poking a hole in the bottom.
DO they make a repalcement breather port? Is that attached to the oil separator?
Is replacing the gaskets a reasonable do it yourself job?
Thanks to all as always... there is no better site out there that helps like this one.. everyone is willing to aid anywhere they can!
DO they make a repalcement breather port? Is that attached to the oil separator?
Is replacing the gaskets a reasonable do it yourself job?
Thanks to all as always... there is no better site out there that helps like this one.. everyone is willing to aid anywhere they can!
Take another look HERE at the thread I pointed you to. It's not the Part-Load Breather tube- which is on the LEFT valve cover- that is discussed there (although that opening does need to be clear). You need to look into the port for the FULL-load Breather Tube, which is on the RIGHT valve cover. The tube between the port on that RIGHT valve cover connects directly to your air intake, near the airbox and air filter. If there's no oil separator in place under that port in your RIGHT valve cover, you WILL get oil in the airbox. Checking takes two minutes and is free...details are in the thread.
And yes, changing out the gaskets isn't hard...it just needs to be done right. Lots of the right kind of help here on the forum, no worries.
#12
I agree with The Coupe. Definitely check the breather pipes especially the one on the right for the seperator. If not there you will need a used cover with one in it.
The covers are not hard to take off, but there are some problem areas. The following link shows pictures along with explanation on how to get through the little problem areas. I took these pics when I had to remove the covers to do the upper chain tensioners. You will also need a good sensitive torque wrench or a good sensitive calibrated wrist. Good luck and keep us posted on what you run into.
EZDriver
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ics-faq-52653/
The covers are not hard to take off, but there are some problem areas. The following link shows pictures along with explanation on how to get through the little problem areas. I took these pics when I had to remove the covers to do the upper chain tensioners. You will also need a good sensitive torque wrench or a good sensitive calibrated wrist. Good luck and keep us posted on what you run into.
EZDriver
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ics-faq-52653/
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