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stripped oil filter union

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Old 09-26-2018, 06:37 PM
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Default stripped oil filter union

In an attempt to remove the top bolt on the starter (another thread) I removed the oil filter to get more access to get a socket on the bolt from the front. I had just changed the oil and filter a couple of weeks ago. I could not budge the filter by hand even though it screwed on and was hand tightened with no problems. I had to use a filter wrench to get off the filter and it was so hard to remove it crushed the end of the filter enough that it was not reusable. I was going to screw it back on until I could get a new filter, but it would only go on about 3/4 turn. It looks like the threads on the filter and the union (terminology ?) it screws on to have a groove in the sharp edge of the threads. I didn't look at it before because there was no problem installing the new filter which spun on freely. The filter wrench was only on the end opposite the threads so I don't know how it may have been damaged the threads. While I'm at a loss as to how the threads may have been damaged I'm wondering if it is a big deal to replace the threaded union the filter screws on to. It looks like a big allen wrench would fit inside it and I'm guessing is used to remove it. I don't want to do any more damage than I may have already done while trying to replace a starter. Is this a replaceable part?
 
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Old 09-26-2018, 09:03 PM
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It appears it is. Most places show it as discontinued or no longer available.
SNG Barratt
 
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Old 09-27-2018, 04:09 AM
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+1

NLA from Jaguar Classic (part of JLR) so unobtainable unless a dealer of aftermarket specialist has old stock. However, there's plenty of destroyed Jaguar engines so a specialist breaker is likely to have one .......




This lists all the models that used the same adapter.

Graham
 
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Old 09-27-2018, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by klynn
I'm wondering if it is a big deal to replace the threaded union the filter screws on to. It looks like a big allen wrench would fit inside it
Somehow that union came off with the last filter I removed. I ended up fitting a hex screw head into the union, and was able to torque the union back in place with a socket on a nut fitted to said screw. That union hex is bigger than it seems, and way outside the normal allen sets around the garage. I would start by removing it and assess the damage. Maybe you can take it to a local machine shop for repair. Separately, if there is damage to the threads, double check the oil for any sign of metal shavings. As you pointed out, something got in those threads to do the damage. Also, check the classifieds for this XK8 part-out. Maybe the owner can be talked into mailing you this part for a fee.

Best of luck, keep us posted.
 
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Old 09-27-2018, 07:53 AM
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I don't know if I can find something to chase the threads with. I will try a new filter and see if it spins on without too much trouble. If not, I may have to try to force one on enough to get it to seal without distorting it, but I'm afraid this could introduce metal particles into the oil that may not get filtered.
 
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Old 09-27-2018, 08:31 AM
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I would do this "on the bench", not with the union on the car. You can reuse the threaded part of an old filter and see if you can cut it to hold it in a vise. The union has a nice hex flange for a wrench. Remember, the union is gold at this point, and the filter is cheap and available in "infinite" multiples, so double check the filter threads. Use tap/die lubricant to avoid any type of hot spots. Once confirmed OK, I would do a nice cleanout (steel brush, brake cleaner) and a closeup inspection before putting it back in place. Your car, your call.

When I had this part in my hand, it seemed like a basic plumbing part. You might want to measure the threads and plug that into a search engine. Might be readily available...
 
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Old 09-27-2018, 09:01 AM
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I'll will have to try to find a hex tool in the right size, whatever that is, and see if the union will come out without damaging something else. I still find it odd that the filter went on initially without a problem and except for breaking it free to take it off again, it spun off without a problem, but won't go past the first turn or so trying to get it back on again. I have a new filter on order and will see if it will spin on before I do anything else. Thanks for the input.
 
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Old 09-27-2018, 09:18 AM
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Just use an old bolt to take it off. Find a bolt with a head that fits in there. Then use the double nut technique to torque it off.
 
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Old 09-27-2018, 11:32 AM
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Good call. Thanks
 
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Old 09-28-2018, 03:53 PM
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I received the new oil filter today. I carefully tried to install it and it went on about the same 3/4 turn and hit a stop as before. I thought i was going to have to put your suggestions to work, but then I just jiggled it a bit and it spun on freely the rest of the way. I had tried the same thing on the old filter without success so I don't really have an explanation, but won't argue with success. Pressing my luck, I took it off again, wet the seal with oil and reinstalled it. It again had the same initial hitch, but then screwed on freely. I truly appreciate the input and don't feel quite so bad about causing a new problem trying to fix a different problem. Back to the starter replacement now.
 
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Old 09-28-2018, 06:42 PM
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Good news! Congrats

John
 
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Old 09-29-2018, 08:20 PM
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I suggest just chasing the threads with a proper sized die. Easy to do and will solve the problem long term. The threads look basically ok.
 
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Old 09-30-2018, 10:08 AM
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With the union removed you could use a readily available from tool suppliers such as Snap On, a metric thread file to restore threads.
 
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Old 09-30-2018, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Terrific
With the union removed you could use a readily available from tool suppliers such as Snap On, a metric thread file to restore threads.
even with it left on the engine, you can use a thread restoring die (NOT a regular "thread-cutting die), and clean it up with minimal metal removal ( very important ). Just stuff shop paper towels around the union before you start.

Z
 
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