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Maybe even a strong vacuum with a nozzle of some sort crafted up. With that, set valves so they will allow an AIR IN way (either thru the intake or exhaust side) and let the vac rip??? I dunno. It's a real dilemma...
For the misfire craziness... The caps have an impact on fueling if they ain't right. Also might let a lot more air into the cylinder... If the cap came off, the seals and rings most likely got sucked in as well.
Shoot. You may have gotten lucky... Off the top of my head I can't remember the exact anatomy of the intake plenum,,, injector IN,,, and cavity for the intake valve... If you remove the entire top end,,, the plastic intake plenum (wait,,, is this a supercharged car???) You might find the caps sitting on top of the intake valves, in the heads, waiting to be rescued...
Look carefully! Are you sure them caps ain't just sitting in there holes in the intake plenum??? From memory, nah, they have a lip/rim around the top edge that wouldn't allow them to go INTO the receiving hole in the plenum for the injectors, right??? They have a TOP HAT kinda shape... I think that when you pulled the rail out the caps remained in the holes...? No?
Anyways, if you had way wrong caps,,, you potentially would see the misfires you saw...
Thanks Jay. Moving toward the final phases. Opened the T/B to allow air thru plenum, took small nozzle on shop vac and did each injector port thoroughly. Have removed the Plugs now and plan to spin engine over while injecting air into cylinder the plug hole and using shop vac again on injector port. There was no evidence of any lack of compression or odd noises when running prior to codes. I have new Pintle Caps and O-Rings for injectors. Plan to clean each injector with a DIY Cleaning apparatus. (
). Very Clever device. Hope to finish soon. The COLD has not been my friend. Supplies from "The Injector Shop" in Snohomish Wa. ( https://theinjectorshop.com/ ), they have been extremely helpful and quick with parts. Will provide more when additional progress is made.
Do you KNOW where those missing caps are?
Where did they end up?
I have a feeling either they got blown back into the intake housing OR they are sitting in top of the valves in the cavity between the underside of the plenum and the intake valve. I would not spin the engine with the starter AGAIN until you have them in your hand,,, all accounted for. That's just me.
The entire plastic plenum, the black intake, will come off pretty easily in ONE piece with the TB. It's 10 10mm bolts, undo the fuel line and plugs to TB, associated coolant lines along the back etc. Those caps have to be somewhere. I fear they will JAM between the valve and the seat and make REAL trouble for you - swearing and alllll types of interesting body language,,, then the pain to your ego and wallet will follow.
I hope others will throw out some suggestions as to WHERE the caps may have ended up OR what next steps might be.
Believe it or not,,, if you remove the black curvy intake plenum,,, with a light, you can clearly SEE the tops of all of the intake valves. I think that may be where you find your caps... Just sitting in there.
Not the failed seat in the photo of course.....but this is (something like) what the space just under that intake housing looks like under each injector port...
I still don't understand how the caps could have made it past their seats on the outer top side of the intake plenum. Maybe I have anatomy of how the injectors seat on the intake wrong in my mind...?
UPDATE: Cranked car and ran for about 25-30seconds smoothly, then stumbled and started missing. Threw codes and I shut car down. Codes P0300, P0304 #4, P0306 #6. P0308 #8, P1314. SERIOUS Misfire. Disassembled again and removed the rails to inspect. 1 Pintle cap was still attached and other 7 were GONE.
Dude. You need to STOP and find those caps! I just reread this. I don't usually talk like this on this forum but if you keep trying to start this car I FEAR that you are going to do some real show stopping engine destroying damage... Jus say'n.
OK to note this thread Resolved. Will start another thread regarding the methods used to resolve the Leaking Fuel Rail Damper problem.
We rigged a pressure test apparatus using a Dorman 800-131, 14mm Spring-lock fuel fitting and vinyl hose from hardware store. The Rails are not 100% Stainless Steel; the welding process was difficult to leak free repair. After damaging the Pintle Caps and neglecting to flush the repaired rails; we purchased a complete O/H set of caps and O-Rings for Denso injectors. Cleaned the injectors with the DIY mentioned above, flushed the rails with spray carb cleaner, the dried with air hose. Re-installed the dry rails , O/H'ed injectors and reassembled the balance of the parts. Made the needed connections and made a final check to insure all was tight and complete. Car had been on Battery Maintainer entire time so no lack of cranking power. Took a few cycles to get completely fuel and ran rough for short time, but smoothed out when nearing operating temp. No DTC's and running great. Wait for new thread regarding the suggestions on Damper removal.
02-16-2022, 06:16 AM
