Stuck Top
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I only drained the reservoir thoroughly. I did not loosen or remove any hoses. I do note that the 'latching pins' are fully deployed at the present configuration (top down, latch down, windows down). I would have thought they would be retracted, but then it is a JAG. I have not opened the windscreen 'header', but I am going to look for the instructions to do so in case I need to. Perhaps a relay has gone bad? I see that there are four beneath the luggage compartment fuse box.
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Be VERY careful with those connectors!
Many have broken them off and they are not available.
They have been in place for many years and will not easily separate.
That's how I bought the first car so cheap. The PO had tried to remove the connectors and then found pumps were $2400.
Perhaps we should move to jumping the up/down relays.
Many have broken them off and they are not available.
They have been in place for many years and will not easily separate.
That's how I bought the first car so cheap. The PO had tried to remove the connectors and then found pumps were $2400.
Perhaps we should move to jumping the up/down relays.
#30
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Another possibility to consider: a leak, even a slight one, in one of the hoses could prevent the pump from developing enough pressure to move the latch or the top.
Questions:
- When changing the fluid, did you remove the pump from its mounting, or did you do the work with the pump left in place?
- The sound of the pump ... is it a constant sound or a "studdering" sound as if the pump were cavitating?
- Can you detect any change in the fluid level from when you first refilled the reservoir? (It's normal for the level to be a bit lower with the top up than with it down.)
Suggestion:
- Inspect the visible hose connections at the pump, and feel behind the pump, for any leaking fluid.
Questions:
- When changing the fluid, did you remove the pump from its mounting, or did you do the work with the pump left in place?
- The sound of the pump ... is it a constant sound or a "studdering" sound as if the pump were cavitating?
- Can you detect any change in the fluid level from when you first refilled the reservoir? (It's normal for the level to be a bit lower with the top up than with it down.)
Suggestion:
- Inspect the visible hose connections at the pump, and feel behind the pump, for any leaking fluid.
#31
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Unless the fluid has changed drastically in the tank I would not be concerned with checking for a fluid leak. The signal to the latch coil is from the security control module but ALL switches related must be in the correct sequence one of the reasons for the hard reset.
I would like for you to make sure the roof is completely open push down on both sides of the roof to stow it tighter.
I would like for you to make sure the roof is completely open push down on both sides of the roof to stow it tighter.
#32
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Brantman,
I know from 1st hand experience that even a small leak can cause what you're seeing. Not to say this is the problem; but possible. Worth checking for leaks. Easy to check. Why would we not?
If the pump is running, then the only electrical condition that can cause both the top and latch not to move would be if both solenoids were in the wrong state (i.e. both set to not permit flow in the required direction). Unlikely, but possible. Not widely understood ... but when the "raise top" cycle is begun, both latch and top hydraulic circuits are pressurized at the same time.
Hang in there. Good luck.
I know from 1st hand experience that even a small leak can cause what you're seeing. Not to say this is the problem; but possible. Worth checking for leaks. Easy to check. Why would we not?
If the pump is running, then the only electrical condition that can cause both the top and latch not to move would be if both solenoids were in the wrong state (i.e. both set to not permit flow in the required direction). Unlikely, but possible. Not widely understood ... but when the "raise top" cycle is begun, both latch and top hydraulic circuits are pressurized at the same time.
Hang in there. Good luck.
Last edited by Dennis07; 01-03-2015 at 08:33 PM.
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cjd777 (01-03-2015)
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Gus, fuse number 6 in the "Luggage Compartment Fuse Box" is listed as "Right and left-hand stop lamps via security and locking module". Could that fuse, or wiring, possibly cause the symptoms of both brake lamps being out and the top not functioning?
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That is entirely possible and I say this because the fuse for the sun visor lights if blown will prevent you from starting your car. However, I would like to stay on track of what we know and what to look at to eliminate the known components.
Link to oneline of the roof system http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...eline99xk8.pdf
The entire roof electrical control system is controlled by the body and security control modules and they will read the position of the roof by means of micro switched in the rams/lifts and in the header/latch. I wanted you to push down on the roof to stow it tighter because my guess is that the open switch in the ram is not sending the correct signal and for that reason the pump turns on but no signal to open the latch solenoid resulting in no movement. The latch must open first then the roof will begin to close. The hard reset was to remove the confusion resulting in the roof not working properly.
Link to oneline of the roof system http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...eline99xk8.pdf
The entire roof electrical control system is controlled by the body and security control modules and they will read the position of the roof by means of micro switched in the rams/lifts and in the header/latch. I wanted you to push down on the roof to stow it tighter because my guess is that the open switch in the ram is not sending the correct signal and for that reason the pump turns on but no signal to open the latch solenoid resulting in no movement. The latch must open first then the roof will begin to close. The hard reset was to remove the confusion resulting in the roof not working properly.
The following users liked this post:
cjd777 (01-03-2015)