Maybe its better to split this thread to separate the catch can discussion?

@Sc2150

Thanks for the info on catch cans, would definitely be interested.

On the 4.0 cars (like I have), the part load breather (driver side) has a thin opening, and is connected to the intake elbow (after the TB and before the SC). The full load breather is connected after the MAF and before the TB.

What connection do you recommend here, and which system?

 

SC2150,

What do you think of the MANN ProVent 200?

http://www.republicsales.com/documen...oVent%20en.pdf

 

Here is from a customer with a low 11 sec camaro, all mods in his sig.

Here is a copy of a post I made last year when I first put the chiller on and I did days of testing on the road and this is the info from that dyno testing which matched all of the road testing I did. I didn't post any graphs as I was having issues with my SCT losing connections so I never turned the logger off so it was about 30 min long.

I ok well I got the data off we needed, I tried to do a graph and all that but I am tired and not gonna do it now. So the dyno sheets I emailed to myself from the shop didn't work so I will go off of memory for the numbers there.

First off the A/C does kick off at WOT but comes back on around 4500RPM(we could see a dip in the dyno sheet. So for ALL the Chiller on tests we let it chill for 5 minutes between runs and just before we went WOT we turned off the A/C. Same 5 minutes were given for cool down for Chiller OFF.

Chiller OFF Data

101* AMBIENT
1st pull IAT start at 104*F end at 122*F car made 568

2nd pull IAT starts at 114*F end at 140*F car made 55? had a small amout of KR (.3)

3rd pull IAT starts at 125*F end at 145*F car made 54? had alittle more KR (.9)


Chiller ON

107* AMBIENT
1st pull IAT starts at 64*F ends at 113*F car made 56?

2nd Pull IAT starts at 66*F ends at 116*F car made 56?

3rd pull IAT starts at 66*F ends at 116*F car made 56?

Did a pulley change 3.6 to a 3.4 and went from 6psi to 7 psi and made 596 and the torque can't remember but it went up almost 50ftlbs. IAT were the same as the other runs with the chiller on.

I didn't tune for the chiller, we were pressed for time as they had 2 other cars that needed tuning and I was on the dyno most of the day doing 8-10 pulls. The tuner though we could get another 1-2 degrees of timing with IAT where they were with the chiller on but since we didn't have time to test I choose to stay where I was and be safer at the same power level. I think if your IATs are higher than 140*F you may get some HP out of this deal and be alot safer, but my car at 6-7PSI doesn't produce alot of heat.

I hope everyone is ok with the test as you can't please everyone but I did my best to keep a even playing field but temps came up as the day went on and engine coolant temps are what they are when we hit the go pedal. I will try to get some logs for the 1/4 mile but it isn't going to change any from what I have already done around here on the road and the dyno actually proved to heat up the car more than a 0-120mph run.

__________________
08' F250 CCSB 6.4L Diesel White & Black, Blacked out, 580RWHP @ 55psi 13.21 @ 101mph
10' Camaro 2SS LS3 M6 White & Black, Blacked out, 662 RWHP & 656 FT.LBS @ 11psi 11.25 @ 124mph
TVS2300 , Twin Carbon Street Slayer Clutch & 1000HP Axles,JRE cam & tune,LPE Fuel, Super Chiller,Nitto555R

 

I saw 25-30 rwhp gain when using the chiller, could get more if you want to get it,I didn't add any change to the tune, but I like the factor of safety it gives me with the stock bottom end and the Florida heat.

__________________
08' F250 CCSB 6.4L Diesel White & Black, Blacked out, 580RWHP @ 55psi 13.21 @ 101mph
10' Camaro 2SS LS3 M6 White & Black, Blacked out, 662 RWHP & 656 FT.LBS @ 11psi 11.25 @ 124mph
TVS2300 , Twin Carbon Street Slayer Clutch & 1000HP Axles,JRE cam & tune,LPE Fuel, Super Chiller,Nitto555R

 

That's true in an absolute sense, but the AC system is acting a heat pump, not a heat sink, so it only has to do the work to move the heat from the intake charge to the ambient air moving through the condenser coil.

The car goes faster and the planet gets warmer.

 

Yes...I'll start another thread.

The part load and full load is the clean side, where the fresh makeup air enters. This is a good design to reduce ingestion from the cleanside (upstream of the TB), but it is the dirty side that 90% plus is ingested, and that is from crancase to intake manifold vacuum on non FI and crankcase to vacuum barb on top mount SC applications.

Single valve can works good for that. Adding a second can that is not valved to the cleanside for full load connection takes care of all ingestion points as far as the intake air charge ingestion.

That is an excellent system. It does not use condensing as well as coalescing that could improve it, but the features of a replaceable coalescing filter is nice (as it uses a fabric style). What you DONT want to do is return that trapped oil to the crankcase as it allows as there is a concentrated mix of damaging combustion byproducts in that oil and that will cause premature engine wear.

The ultimate is the Alfa Laval using a centrifuge style separator that allows purified oil to be returned to the crankcase and has cleanable filtration system.....but they are $68K to $100k plus for industrial diesel applications. A few years back the owner of Alfa Laval's US division broght in a new camaro to have us install our system after researching the ones available at the time...got to tour their manufacturing facility and they are so far ahead of anything similar it was fascinating.

Nearly every cruise ship, locomotive, frieghter uses the Alfa Laval systems.

 

@SC2150

Thanks for the feedback, didn't know that it was that biased to the part load breather. I expected some more from the full load, as there you get the main flow once you're running full power (most leakage past the rings).

May I ask what the check valve is for? I would have thought in this particular setup, you wouldn't want to alter the flow.

 

On the side that most of the crankcase is evacuating from should be where the most oil is ingesting from. The "celan side" provides the metered filtered fresh make up air for the evacuation taking place to "flush" the damaging combustion byproducts in the blow by.

The checkvalve is just to prevent any back flow or reversionif vacuum falls to a level to low to keep evacuation positive so the trapped oil is not forced back into the crankcase as it contains a concentrate of damaging compounds (abrasive carbon particles, unburnt fuel, water vapor, sulfuric acid, etc.).

Sorry been off a few days...finishing a AWD CTS caddy centri build on the 3.6L V6.

 

Thanks, I'll give it a try.

 

Just a heads up for anyone thinking of buying from these guys: I ordered and paid for their catch can on 5/23/13. Now 3 1/2 months later they still haven't sent it.

 

Similar, but not quite as bad an experience. Took a couple of months to get it but once I did it was well made.

I did find that the check valve would chatter, making an awful sound that was not appropriate for a Jaguar, and I ended up replacing it with a standard fitting (which Rx provided for free) and putting the stock check valve back in.

 

Lead time on all has dropped drastically (we were overwhelmed, have tooled up to meet demand and just finished this week!!. One week avg right now) and have upgraded drain to a high quality 1/4 turn valve and new inline checkvalves on the dual valve systems.. Anyone that has not received an order let me know.

SteveM, sorry for the delay, yours shipped today.

Our apologies.

 

Finally received the catch can today from RX Performance, so it's all good.

 

Cool! Want to point out that Graham Wood in the UK is installing the RX Superchillers for the members there.

 

Damn I bought one of those billet aluminum catch cans thinking they were the better ones....

 

The problem with most of the billet ones is they for one, are to small so the speed of the flow through, or the velocity, cannot slow enough to prevent the condensed oil droplets from pulling through (think dentist suction tube, or sucking up spilled liquid with a straw). And they have filter media right against the outlet & inlet (as there is no designated inlet/outlet) so like a wet washcloth held to your mouth, if you suck water is drawn out...same principal.

And most others are nothing more than empty cans:




And here is a nice looking can that is the correct size (large enough internally to allow the flow to slow to a level the droplets can fall out of suspension), but no separate chambers or baffling to direct vapors through:



But they do put a scouring pad inside it:



But ANY can is better than no can, they just let a good deal of oil to pull past into the intake air charge.

 

Billet Technology Signature Series Catch Can 2.7 or 3.5 & 3.6 Pentstar


That is the one I have. It does look pretty though. I have noticed that I do get quite a bit of oil (teaspoon a week or so). After seeing the coked oil on my throttle body and intake elbow, I figured it was time to invest in one.

 

That can catches oil, but if you pull your TB off you will see it lets in a good percentage. If you unscrew the top and remove it, you will see the filter media is against both the inlet & outlet so much of the oil pulls past. They manufacture for a dozen plus others private label, but all that same design. Still far better than no can.

 

Is there a way to modify it to make it work better? Or is it better just to buy a new one

 

Look at the top inside. If you remove the perforated piece to get to the filter media, pull it out of the side that is against the barb your using as the outlet. This will prevent the media when soaked with oil from that oil pulling right out the outlet. You will still need to go with a can large enough to allow the flow to slow enough to prevent the droplets from pulling through, but in the mean time removing the media from the side used as the outlet will help quite a bit.

This is the best functioning on the market, excuse my hand drawn diagram:


You can see how the vapors are drawn through the center, are dispersed into a large coalescing chamber, then into a condensing and collection chamber before being evenly forced around the lower disc baffle so they make as much contact with the outer wall for further cooling/condensing in a secondary condensing chamber, then again past an upper disc baffle into a totally separate outlet chamber. This is the only one that keeps the oil laden vapors totally separate from the cleaned vapors at the outlet. Every other can allows incoming and outgoing to swirl and mix preventing 100% separation. It is also just under 1 qt capacity so it allows the flow through it to slow enough to allow all the droplets to fall out of suspension.

Most cans I think are purchased by the appearance more than function as there is so little accurate information out there for people to research and understand the issues and what makes a good solution for them.

:thumbsup: