Our XKR's original superchager is showing a lot of wear around ~110,000. I originally thought it was the bushing between the rotor gears and the snout, but changing that had no effect. On closer inspection the rotors are hitting themselves and the case. We purchased a used one off ebay. Seller said it was good and only have 65,000 miles on it. Its in about the same condition as the original. I'm going to be rebuilding the original one.

Now our XJR is starting to show the same signs of failure. Clunking at idle and off idle, especially when the engine is rev'd and then let up. It only has ~60,000. What little maintenance that can be done has been done (changing the fluid).

What is the life expectancy of these superchargers?

 

I was hoping someone would ask that. I too have suspicion that mine is not what it should be.
I have some asynchronous clicking exactly from top of S/C area, right after I start the motor cold. It goes away if revved up and after few minutes of warm up. Also, I do not hear the awesome whining noise at acceleration, like I did before.
How do I check fluid level and condition?

 

I also would like to know how to check the fluid level.
i thought it was lubricated by the engine oil.

 

Eaton says that the fluid shouldn't need to be changed unless its leaking. Sealed for life, but we have heard that line before.

To check/change on the front driver's side of the body there is a black plug. It takes an allen wrench. Remove the plug and teh fluid should be to the top of the hole. If you aren't parked on level ground some fluid may run out. To change you suck the oil fluid out and put new fluid in. I used a syringe and a piece of clear hose to suck it out. The correct fluid is easily found at GM supercharger fluid. Available on ebay and summitracing.com. Ebay has kits also.

 

I have that clicking noise, too, but I didn't know it was the supercharger.

 

Yes, but your car is still a beautiful coupe, so you are in much better shape

 

When I bought the car back in January, the dealer started the engine and the clicking began. He "said" it was nothing and squirted some silicon spray on the S/C drive belt and the clicking stopped. I'm not saying this is a convincing repair, and I don't know what the clicking is caused by, but I wouldn't have thought it was anything serious if a quick squirt of silicon can fix it for a few weeks.

 

I will try to squirt some on mine, but if this works, I will be very surprised.

 

With reference to all the above posts.Eaton says the supercharger should last the lifetime of the vehicle,which it will with good maintainence.

As for the rotors hitting the housing that means that the rotor needle bearings are worn.

The snout holds 215ml or 7.3 fl oz of fluid. The fluid should be changed approx every 30,000 miles.

I have had the pleasure of stripping down a few Eatons!!!

I have listed a few possible oils below:

Air BP Turbo Oil 2380 (1 US Quart/0.946L)
Mobil Jet Oil 2 (1 US Quart/0.946L)
Aeroshell Turbine Oil 500 (1 US Quart/0.946L)
GM Part No 12345982 (4 oz Bottle)
Jaguar Part No JLM12290

Just incase anyone needs a new snout refill plug/washer.

Jaguar Part No JLM12291

 

I've had a few Eaton equiped vehicles over the past few years; 3 Thunderbird SC's, a 2003 SVT Lightning, and I installed an aftermarket Magnuson Magnacharger on my 2004 GTO. The Lightning, and the GTO both used the Eaton M-112 that is also on the Jaguar V8s. The T-birds used the smaller M-90.

I have always used the GM fluid listed above, but I know quite a few of my T-bird buddies have been using the BP Turbine oil (with good results) since it is MUCH cheaper, and appears to be the same stuff.

I never changed mine as often as 30k miles, more like 60k to 100k miles. But I would advise checking the level often, and check it cold, when the engine is hot the fluid expands quite a bit. The T-bird units had a history of leaking their fluid from the front snout seal, many were driven with the fluid VERY low, and still lasted well into the 6 figures for mileage.

There are companies in the US who rebuild (and even hot rod) the Eaton superchargers, but realistically it is probably more cost effective to replace them, since decent used units seem to be available for a couple hundred bucks.

http://www.magnusonproducts.com/

http://www.stiegemeier.com/

http://www.magnumpowers.com/index.php

 

If that was the case it could be an idler pulley with bad bearings.

 

Alright, you guys have got me paranoid alittle. Mine is comming up 50,000. I am going to remove the 1" plug and check my oil level. If the oil is clean it should be fine, right?. It doesn't get as hot as motor oil, or does it?

 

Could someone post location of the fluid level check plug, please?

 

I would say it gets at least as hot. The supercharger spins at over 3X the engine speed, and there isn't much oil there. It's a rough life in there, that's why a special oil is specified.

You can't telll much by looking at it, other than if you have enough in there. If you are worried about it being old change it out, which brings up a good point;

Without removing the supercharger the best way to drain and refill it is using some sort of suction pump since there is no drain plug. On my other vehicels I used a turkey baster with a 1/8" aquarium airline type hose attached to it to reach down in the supercharger to suck the old oil out.

Here's a pic I found online and highlighted the plug in red. It takes a hex key to remove, and should have a magnet inside to collect any debris;

 

OK, thanks. I have added this to the list of things to ask the garage to look at when the car goes in for its annual service. Do you know how difficult/expensive it would be to repair or change the idler pulley? Or does it even need doing? The clicking isn't that bad and goes after a minute or so.

 

Very interesting. This is the first that I have heard of this potential problem. I was wondering how many of the Jag Techs on the Forum have any suggestions on checking or changing out the oil?

Thanks in advance!

 

You can now expect the usual followups that state as absolute truth that it is impossible to either remove or refill the lubricant without removing the supercharger. They will shout down anyone who disagrees.

 

Good lord, do the X-type owners read this forum too?

 

It's impossible to remove or refill the lubricant without removing the supercharger. It simply can't be done. No possible way. Absolutely none. Don't challenge me on this. I don't own an XKR, but I read it somewhere on the internets. If you disagree I will shout you down.

 

Going have to disagree with you on that Sam,i can empty and refill a supercharger with oil in less than 30 mins with it still fitted on vehicle.Oil should be clear or slightly coloured and sweet smelling,if oil is black and is foul smelling it needs changing!!!

Tools Needed:

3/16" Allen Key Long Type
Rags
Large Syringe or Turkey Baster
Approx 10" Tubing
Approx 215ml or 7.3 fl oz of Oil

Procedure:

1.Refill Point is on left hand side of snout(passenger side for RHD driver side for LHD)
2.Use large Syringe or Turkey Baster with tubing attached to suck oil out.
3.Reverse above procedure to fill snout.
4.Fill till oil runs out of fill hole,when fluid has stopped flowing out replace refill plug.
5.Momentary start engine to circulate fluid in snout approx 15 secs then switch off

JOB DONE!!!