XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

Supercharger life expectancy?

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  #21  
Old 04-26-2011, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by macbut999
Going have to disagree with you on that Sam,i can empty and refill a supercharger with oil in less than 30 mins with it still fitted on vehicle.Oil should be clear or slightly coloured and sweet smelling,if oil is black and is foul smelling it needs changing!!!

Tools Needed:

3/16" Allen Key Long Type
Rags
Large Syringe or Turkey Baster
Approx 10" Tubing
Approx 215ml or 7.3 fl oz of Oil

Procedure:

1.Refill Point is on left hand side of snout(passenger side for RHD driver side for LHD)
2.Use large Syringe or Turkey Baster with tubing attached to suck oil out.
3.Reverse above procedure to fill snout.
4.Fill till oil runs out of fill hole,when fluid has stopped flowing out replace refill plug.
5.Momentary start engine to circulate fluid in snout approx 15 secs then switch off

JOB DONE!!!
The Rev is probably joking.

But your post would have been a great help last month in one particularly nasty exchange.

The assertion was again repeated as gospel truth as recently as last week.
 
  #22  
Old 04-26-2011, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Andy94SC
There are companies in the US who rebuild (and even hot rod) the Eaton superchargers, but realistically it is probably more cost effective to replace them, since decent used units seem to be available for a couple hundred bucks.
In my case buying a used one was not to my advantage. The seller stated 65000 miles, and the tag on the SC had the VIN number. Carfaxing the VIN number did show 65000 miles, but it showed more wear than the original 110,000 mile unit. And if you do go through the procedure of replacing it and find faulty you will be out 6 hours of labor and about $150 worth in gaskets just to have to do it over.



Originally Posted by Frog
Do you know how difficult/expensive it would be to repair or change the idler pulley? Or does it even need doing? The clicking isn't that bad and goes after a minute or so.
You don't repair the pulleys. You replace them. Replacing isn't hard and if the belt needs to be replaced do it as well as the belt will be off. It would be a simple procedure and inexpensive however Jaguar changed the pulley design at some point which requires a different mount, belt pulley, and IIRC one other item. About $200 in parts. However, your car may not need the conversion kit.



Originally Posted by macbut999
Oil should be clear or slightly coloured and sweet smelling,if oil is black and is foul smelling it needs changing!!!
Foul smelling is an understatement. I though differential fluid smelled nasty. Used supercharger fluid is a whole new level of nasty.
 
  #23  
Old 04-26-2011, 08:20 PM
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Yeah silage or dog pooh smells fresher than used supercharger oil
 
  #24  
Old 04-26-2011, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by SilverXJ
You don't repair the pulleys. You replace them. Replacing isn't hard and if the belt needs to be replaced do it as well as the belt will be off. It would be a simple procedure and inexpensive however Jaguar changed the pulley design at some point which requires a different mount, belt pulley, and IIRC one other item. About $200 in parts. However, your car may not need the conversion kit.
If the idler pulley is otherwise undamaged, the bearing can be replaced fairly easily and at considerable cost savings.

See: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...earings-45560/
 

Last edited by WhiteXKR; 04-26-2011 at 08:24 PM.
  #25  
Old 04-27-2011, 12:51 AM
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This is what Eaton is telling about oil changes.
"Q: How often do I need to change the oil in my supercharger?
A:
The sealed oil reservoir in a supercharger is designed to last the life of the vehicle. Changing the oil is not recommended unless you suspect contamination, leakage, or other issues like bearing failure. Also, if your vehicle has an abnormally heavy duty cycle, such as racing or towing, you could consider changing the oil at regular intervals such as 20k, 30k, 50k, or 100k miles depending on usage"


Have no idea what life of the vehicle means in actual miles though, but guess here that heat will play the most important role.
There is a difference in bearings used in the 4.0 and 4.2, the latter has stronger ones, obvioulsy done for a reason. So if you decide to buy a second hand unit, better to choose the 4.2 supercharger, as they do last longer.
 
  #26  
Old 04-27-2011, 02:06 AM
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Originally Posted by avos
This is what Eaton is telling about oil changes.
"Q: How often do I need to change the oil in my supercharger?
A:
The sealed oil reservoir in a supercharger is designed to last the life of the vehicle. Changing the oil is not recommended unless you suspect contamination, leakage, or other issues like bearing failure. Also, if your vehicle has an abnormally heavy duty cycle, such as racing or towing, you could consider changing the oil at regular intervals such as 20k, 30k, 50k, or 100k miles depending on usage"


Have no idea what life of the vehicle means in actual miles though, but guess here that heat will play the most important role.
There is a difference in bearings used in the 4.0 and 4.2, the latter has stronger ones, obvioulsy done for a reason. So if you decide to buy a second hand unit, better to choose the 4.2 supercharger, as they do last longer.

Are the bearings interchangable?
 
  #27  
Old 04-27-2011, 02:31 AM
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No idea, but once you are fiddling with the bearings you need to know how to set the timing of the lobes, so that makes it a specialist job, and then just swapping for a low mileage 4.2 is easier/cheaper. The 4.2 one also has helical gears which make them less noisy, if that is of interest of course.
 
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  #28  
Old 04-27-2011, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by avos
There is a difference in bearings used in the 4.0 and 4.2, the latter has stronger ones, obvioulsy done for a reason. So if you decide to buy a second hand unit, better to choose the 4.2 supercharger, as they do last longer.
That is good to know. I had been tossing around the idea of buying a spare SC and sending it off to one of the above companies to see what might be done by porting the case. If I do I'll look for a newer unit.

I wonder what supercharger the newest Jaguar engines use... a bolt on TVS would be nice!
 
  #29  
Old 04-27-2011, 11:49 AM
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The 5.0 is using the TVS1900 model.
A drop in TVS is not really a good move imho as the intake of the TVS is larger than stock, so you would then already start with a limitation, whereas the idea is probably to get more horses. You would need to make a new intake elbow (or heavily adjust the current one), actually all basically the same as I have done for the twin-screw to fit nicely. The TVS is easily available so anyone can do the work, it’s not rocket science.
 
  #30  
Old 04-27-2011, 01:06 PM
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I have the same clicking noise as well. It sound like it could be the fuel injectors but not too sure at this point...
 
  #31  
Old 04-27-2011, 09:36 PM
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Default SC Info always appreciated

macbut999 thank you very much for that info. I have been wanting to change my SC oil, 70k miles, but didn't know what to get.

Now about your "name/handle"???

Avos always good to hear your input too.
 
  #32  
Old 04-28-2011, 07:36 AM
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Pleasure Fla Steve always here to help our owners across the Pond!!!

70K thats going to be pretty dirty and stinky LOL!!!

Avos cheers for the comment,thought you were the Supercharger master!!!
 
  #33  
Old 04-28-2011, 11:14 AM
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Below a picture of the TVS intake on the left and the older eaton one on he right:



Wouldn't think of myself as a supercharger master, but if anyone needs to be screwed I can certainly help
 
  #34  
Old 04-28-2011, 12:06 PM
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Just bought this oil on ebay, will do change when it gets here.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=330557621710

I also have 70K miles...
 
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  #35  
Old 04-28-2011, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by avos
The 5.0 is using the TVS1900 model.
A drop in TVS is not really a good move imho as the intake of the TVS is larger than stock, so you would then already start with a limitation, whereas the idea is probably to get more horses. You would need to make a new intake elbow (or heavily adjust the current one), actually all basically the same as I have done for the twin-screw to fit nicely. The TVS is easily available so anyone can do the work, it’s not rocket science.
I was hoping it would be straightforward seeing as the 5.0L is an evolution of the 4.0L architecture I have. Still it doesn't sound too.... Never mind. This XKR was suppose to be a vehicle to DRIVE wile I am working on my project Cougar. It wasn't menat to be another project car. Keep focused.
 
  #36  
Old 04-29-2011, 12:21 AM
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The 4.2 can be seen as an evolution to the 4.0, but the 5.0 is a completely different setup. Good luck
 
  #37  
Old 05-02-2011, 09:58 PM
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I got one word to describe charger oil change: Weed-B-Gone
 
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  #38  
Old 05-02-2011, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Mish_Mish
I got one word to describe charger oil change: Weed-B-Gone
Clever, but the aeration by that method must have really stirred up the supercharger oil aroma.
 
  #39  
Old 05-03-2011, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Mish_Mish
I got one word to describe charger oil change: Weed-B-Gone
One more nail in the coffin for the spurious claims that it cannot be done.

Hopefully, the final one.
 
  #40  
Old 05-03-2011, 09:30 AM
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It was not quick, I got to tell ya, but it was comfy. You see, Russians are not big on basting turkeys, or injecting large doses of anything in themselves, or other objects. So finding syrenge was not easy. The biggest one I found was 1ml version, for tooth whitening...
So what I had to do, is inject good amount of carb cleaner (non-acetone based), so liquify the oil and wash down whatever residue there might have been. After that Bayer weed control spray was able to pump old oil very energetically. It took me about 30 minutes, plus another 30 to replace coolant overflow pipe that I snapped off, due to VERY BRITTLE PLASTIC fitting. You can see it on picture, right on top of the water pump housing. Picture was taken before I actually noticed it
I ended up placing new 1/2 inch coolant hose directly onto aluminum nozzle on the front and routing it all the way to coolant reservoir at the back, removing the whole "plastic-metal-rubber-plastic" stock situation.

Charger oil was fairly clean, however it looked like half expired motor oil and had very heavy musky odor to it. Also, it was lower than the check port, I'd say ~2 ounces were missing.
 


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