Supercharger life expectancy?
#21
Going have to disagree with you on that Sam,i can empty and refill a supercharger with oil in less than 30 mins with it still fitted on vehicle.Oil should be clear or slightly coloured and sweet smelling,if oil is black and is foul smelling it needs changing!!!
Tools Needed:
3/16" Allen Key Long Type
Rags
Large Syringe or Turkey Baster
Approx 10" Tubing
Approx 215ml or 7.3 fl oz of Oil
Procedure:
1.Refill Point is on left hand side of snout(passenger side for RHD driver side for LHD)
2.Use large Syringe or Turkey Baster with tubing attached to suck oil out.
3.Reverse above procedure to fill snout.
4.Fill till oil runs out of fill hole,when fluid has stopped flowing out replace refill plug.
5.Momentary start engine to circulate fluid in snout approx 15 secs then switch off
JOB DONE!!!
Tools Needed:
3/16" Allen Key Long Type
Rags
Large Syringe or Turkey Baster
Approx 10" Tubing
Approx 215ml or 7.3 fl oz of Oil
Procedure:
1.Refill Point is on left hand side of snout(passenger side for RHD driver side for LHD)
2.Use large Syringe or Turkey Baster with tubing attached to suck oil out.
3.Reverse above procedure to fill snout.
4.Fill till oil runs out of fill hole,when fluid has stopped flowing out replace refill plug.
5.Momentary start engine to circulate fluid in snout approx 15 secs then switch off
JOB DONE!!!
But your post would have been a great help last month in one particularly nasty exchange.
The assertion was again repeated as gospel truth as recently as last week.
#22
Foul smelling is an understatement. I though differential fluid smelled nasty. Used supercharger fluid is a whole new level of nasty.
#24
You don't repair the pulleys. You replace them. Replacing isn't hard and if the belt needs to be replaced do it as well as the belt will be off. It would be a simple procedure and inexpensive however Jaguar changed the pulley design at some point which requires a different mount, belt pulley, and IIRC one other item. About $200 in parts. However, your car may not need the conversion kit.
See: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...earings-45560/
Last edited by WhiteXKR; 04-26-2011 at 08:24 PM.
#25
This is what Eaton is telling about oil changes.
"Q: How often do I need to change the oil in my supercharger?
A: The sealed oil reservoir in a supercharger is designed to last the life of the vehicle. Changing the oil is not recommended unless you suspect contamination, leakage, or other issues like bearing failure. Also, if your vehicle has an abnormally heavy duty cycle, such as racing or towing, you could consider changing the oil at regular intervals such as 20k, 30k, 50k, or 100k miles depending on usage"
Have no idea what life of the vehicle means in actual miles though, but guess here that heat will play the most important role.
There is a difference in bearings used in the 4.0 and 4.2, the latter has stronger ones, obvioulsy done for a reason. So if you decide to buy a second hand unit, better to choose the 4.2 supercharger, as they do last longer.
"Q: How often do I need to change the oil in my supercharger?
A: The sealed oil reservoir in a supercharger is designed to last the life of the vehicle. Changing the oil is not recommended unless you suspect contamination, leakage, or other issues like bearing failure. Also, if your vehicle has an abnormally heavy duty cycle, such as racing or towing, you could consider changing the oil at regular intervals such as 20k, 30k, 50k, or 100k miles depending on usage"
Have no idea what life of the vehicle means in actual miles though, but guess here that heat will play the most important role.
There is a difference in bearings used in the 4.0 and 4.2, the latter has stronger ones, obvioulsy done for a reason. So if you decide to buy a second hand unit, better to choose the 4.2 supercharger, as they do last longer.
#26
This is what Eaton is telling about oil changes.
"Q: How often do I need to change the oil in my supercharger?
A: The sealed oil reservoir in a supercharger is designed to last the life of the vehicle. Changing the oil is not recommended unless you suspect contamination, leakage, or other issues like bearing failure. Also, if your vehicle has an abnormally heavy duty cycle, such as racing or towing, you could consider changing the oil at regular intervals such as 20k, 30k, 50k, or 100k miles depending on usage"
Have no idea what life of the vehicle means in actual miles though, but guess here that heat will play the most important role.
There is a difference in bearings used in the 4.0 and 4.2, the latter has stronger ones, obvioulsy done for a reason. So if you decide to buy a second hand unit, better to choose the 4.2 supercharger, as they do last longer.
"Q: How often do I need to change the oil in my supercharger?
A: The sealed oil reservoir in a supercharger is designed to last the life of the vehicle. Changing the oil is not recommended unless you suspect contamination, leakage, or other issues like bearing failure. Also, if your vehicle has an abnormally heavy duty cycle, such as racing or towing, you could consider changing the oil at regular intervals such as 20k, 30k, 50k, or 100k miles depending on usage"
Have no idea what life of the vehicle means in actual miles though, but guess here that heat will play the most important role.
There is a difference in bearings used in the 4.0 and 4.2, the latter has stronger ones, obvioulsy done for a reason. So if you decide to buy a second hand unit, better to choose the 4.2 supercharger, as they do last longer.
Are the bearings interchangable?
#27
No idea, but once you are fiddling with the bearings you need to know how to set the timing of the lobes, so that makes it a specialist job, and then just swapping for a low mileage 4.2 is easier/cheaper. The 4.2 one also has helical gears which make them less noisy, if that is of interest of course.
The following users liked this post:
plums (04-27-2011)
#28
I wonder what supercharger the newest Jaguar engines use... a bolt on TVS would be nice!
#29
The 5.0 is using the TVS1900 model.
A drop in TVS is not really a good move imho as the intake of the TVS is larger than stock, so you would then already start with a limitation, whereas the idea is probably to get more horses. You would need to make a new intake elbow (or heavily adjust the current one), actually all basically the same as I have done for the twin-screw to fit nicely. The TVS is easily available so anyone can do the work, it’s not rocket science.
A drop in TVS is not really a good move imho as the intake of the TVS is larger than stock, so you would then already start with a limitation, whereas the idea is probably to get more horses. You would need to make a new intake elbow (or heavily adjust the current one), actually all basically the same as I have done for the twin-screw to fit nicely. The TVS is easily available so anyone can do the work, it’s not rocket science.
#31
#33
#34
Just bought this oil on ebay, will do change when it gets here.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=330557621710
I also have 70K miles...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=330557621710
I also have 70K miles...
The following users liked this post:
Don Neff (04-28-2011)
#35
The 5.0 is using the TVS1900 model.
A drop in TVS is not really a good move imho as the intake of the TVS is larger than stock, so you would then already start with a limitation, whereas the idea is probably to get more horses. You would need to make a new intake elbow (or heavily adjust the current one), actually all basically the same as I have done for the twin-screw to fit nicely. The TVS is easily available so anyone can do the work, it’s not rocket science.
A drop in TVS is not really a good move imho as the intake of the TVS is larger than stock, so you would then already start with a limitation, whereas the idea is probably to get more horses. You would need to make a new intake elbow (or heavily adjust the current one), actually all basically the same as I have done for the twin-screw to fit nicely. The TVS is easily available so anyone can do the work, it’s not rocket science.
#36
#38
#39
#40
It was not quick, I got to tell ya, but it was comfy. You see, Russians are not big on basting turkeys, or injecting large doses of anything in themselves, or other objects. So finding syrenge was not easy. The biggest one I found was 1ml version, for tooth whitening...
So what I had to do, is inject good amount of carb cleaner (non-acetone based), so liquify the oil and wash down whatever residue there might have been. After that Bayer weed control spray was able to pump old oil very energetically. It took me about 30 minutes, plus another 30 to replace coolant overflow pipe that I snapped off, due to VERY BRITTLE PLASTIC fitting. You can see it on picture, right on top of the water pump housing. Picture was taken before I actually noticed it
I ended up placing new 1/2 inch coolant hose directly onto aluminum nozzle on the front and routing it all the way to coolant reservoir at the back, removing the whole "plastic-metal-rubber-plastic" stock situation.
Charger oil was fairly clean, however it looked like half expired motor oil and had very heavy musky odor to it. Also, it was lower than the check port, I'd say ~2 ounces were missing.
So what I had to do, is inject good amount of carb cleaner (non-acetone based), so liquify the oil and wash down whatever residue there might have been. After that Bayer weed control spray was able to pump old oil very energetically. It took me about 30 minutes, plus another 30 to replace coolant overflow pipe that I snapped off, due to VERY BRITTLE PLASTIC fitting. You can see it on picture, right on top of the water pump housing. Picture was taken before I actually noticed it
I ended up placing new 1/2 inch coolant hose directly onto aluminum nozzle on the front and routing it all the way to coolant reservoir at the back, removing the whole "plastic-metal-rubber-plastic" stock situation.
Charger oil was fairly clean, however it looked like half expired motor oil and had very heavy musky odor to it. Also, it was lower than the check port, I'd say ~2 ounces were missing.