Suspected vacuum leak advice needed
#21
I didn't lock onto the faint tick you reported in your first post until a few minutes ago. It may indicate a leak in the egr tube that runs from the right side exhaust manifold to the intake manifold. It's a thin wall steel bellows known to form cracks.
If you can find a replacement it's very expensive and others have reported being able to weld it, but that sounds very difficult.
If you can find a replacement it's very expensive and others have reported being able to weld it, but that sounds very difficult.
Hi I have replaced the pipe and seals on the EGR when I changed it recently. the noise is coming from fuel rail area when we listened with a engine statoscope.
but yes I agree good suggestion as I did have a small hole in my old one.
#22
#23
I didn't lock onto the faint tick you reported in your first post until a few minutes ago. It may indicate a leak in the egr tube that runs from the right side exhaust manifold to the intake manifold. It's a thin wall steel bellows known to form cracks.
If you can find a replacement it's very expensive and others have reported being able to weld it, but that sounds very difficult.
If you can find a replacement it's very expensive and others have reported being able to weld it, but that sounds very difficult.
as a bonus, when it is necessary to do this on plastic bellows tubes, use that flex-seal rubber compound. the new liquid duct tape now comes in cans so you can brush it on. yes, i have a replacement part, but will save it for originality and fix my old one when the time comes.
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Phantom (05-27-2017)
#24
this is an easy fix that i once used in a laboratory; it is rather permanent and CHEAP. It is ideal to do this in place as shape will be locked in, but if removed make sure to not bend the piece. these crap tubes are made this way in the absence of a custom made part for the application, bend to fit on assembly. the cracks always form on the low part, the bottom of the v of the bend, not the high rounded outer edge. what you do is obtain some high temperature epoxy that spreads smooth. it is ideal if you sand out the v's, but carburetor cleaner works well. remember that sanding can only be done in place to prevent shape change. sand before you remove. using a rubber body filler squeegee wiping in the direction of the grooves, give a thin fill to all v's in the tube. wait until it cures and do it again until you just see the round high parts of the bellows. if you want to make it nicer and protect the high spots, do a final coat with a wrap of something fibrous or foil tape which looks nice. will never leak again.
as a bonus, when it is necessary to do this on plastic bellows tubes, use that flex-seal rubber compound. the new liquid duct tape now comes in cans so you can brush it on. yes, i have a replacement part, but will save it for originality and fix my old one when the time comes.
as a bonus, when it is necessary to do this on plastic bellows tubes, use that flex-seal rubber compound. the new liquid duct tape now comes in cans so you can brush it on. yes, i have a replacement part, but will save it for originality and fix my old one when the time comes.
Great Idea I think something like quick steal would work great for this type of repair.
I have used this to patch exhausts in the past as it resists oil, fuel and high temperatures.
You can shape it then smooth off nicely with a wet finger (I would advise gloves though).
Peter
#25
Fianly found the problem
So I stripped my intake, supercharger, intercoolers, fuel rail and inlet manifold,
I sent my injectors off for a flow test and clean they gained 5% efficiency increase on 4 of the units and found all 8 lower seals failing. (rounded up some of the escaped horses)
The intake manifold bolts were only finger tight.
It must have been stripped in the past as all the seals looked quite new except the seals on the fuel rail 6 of them were leaking.
I just have to put it all back together now.
Does any one have the spec sheet for how tight the bolts should be?
I sent my injectors off for a flow test and clean they gained 5% efficiency increase on 4 of the units and found all 8 lower seals failing. (rounded up some of the escaped horses)
The intake manifold bolts were only finger tight.
It must have been stripped in the past as all the seals looked quite new except the seals on the fuel rail 6 of them were leaking.
I just have to put it all back together now.
Does any one have the spec sheet for how tight the bolts should be?
#26
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#30
I used two flat bladed screw drivers one on the left side and one on the right there is a small slot you can put the blade of the driver in on each side of the injector. then levered down on the fuel rail to lift them straight up they came out easy and undamaged.
putting them in I used a o2 sensor socket and a cloth to protect my hand and pressed as hard as I could down (I used two blocks of wood to support the fuel rail) and rocked the injector as a pressed down they all went back in with out damage.
I can take some pics of how I did it if you like as I still have not built it all back up.
#31