As the title says ...
I know of the way to use extensions to attack them from the top, but I can't find those long extensions here (yeah, they make them all here, but it seems they are all shipped to the USA .
So, can I reach those bolts from underneath, or is it a case of "I can see them, but no way I can reach them'?
Any input appreciated.

 

There really is no way to remove the bolts from underneath. Maneuvering a wrench or a ratchet from underneath is next to impossible. By removing the intake air box, you can get to the passenger side sway bar bush easily. A short, about 15 centimeter long extension with a ratchet should do it. I think the bolt is a 10 or 12 mm. The driver's side is impossible to get to without about a 50 centimeter (maybe slightly less) long extension. To make your life easier, you will want to disconnect the sway bar links before attempting the bushes.

If you can't source any local ones, what about online from ebay or amazon?

 

You can get to them through the wheelarch too.

 

Hahaha, that totally answers my question ...
I guess I will follow woox4, then, if I fail, give it an other try on Monday to get those extensions.
Thanks guys!

 

When I did mine I looked at getting to the bolts from the wheel arches - there is a gap just big enough to get a spanner in and then painstakingly undo the bolt. I have no idea how you could get the bolt back in again. In contrast, if you take the airbox out you have masses of room to work with from above which makes it so easy on that side, and on the other its tight, but straightforward.

If it was me, I would buy or make an extension rather than try and do it from the wheel arches.

 

Well, it is doable I think, although tight.
Still, I failed; 3 of the 4 bolts are so tight that I can't break them loose, no space for momentum, and the last thing I want is to round them off.

So instead, with the liners out, I cleaned up and redid the monkey work the paint shop did for the previous owner.
Cleaned the glass of the fog lights, fixed the adjusters, reinstalled the cap on one of the wing reservoirs, organised wires, and some more.
So not all in vain, but gonne buy some extra tools .

To be continued ...

 

Wow, you work fast. From the time I decide to do something until it actually gets done, months go by. It would be less if I had more spare time, but I digress. I remember trying it through the liner as well I found that getting any purchase on the bolts was nigh on impossible.

 

See if this helps.

Link to bushing replacement http://www.jagrepair.com/StabilizerBushingReplacement1999xk8.htm

Gus
www.jagrepair.com

 

The LHS clamp is obstructed by the trans cooler lines. I couldn't get straight enough on the forward one from the top with an extension, so managed with a ring spanner from underneath. It was a faff, but fortunately the bolt came out OK.

Definitely disconnect the drop links as giandaniel suggests as that allows the front of the bar to be moved out of the way.

 

I only took one of the lhs ones out - I left the other in place but loose as I didn't think I'd ever get the damn thing back in again otherwise.

 

Yup, that's the way I will attack it next week, thank you.
I soaked the bolts in penetration oil, so that will hopefully help as well if I start again.
I can see the old rubber bushes partially sticking out, they seemed pancaked, so it needs to be done, one way or an other.

 

Doing this over the weekend. Good information.

 

I finished this just yesterday, and was happy to have the car on a lift.
I can see how you can do everything from the top, but I did most on the driver side from underneath.
Had to push the bar significantly forward to get the front bolt in.
Good luck.

 

Just did the swaybar bushes today and did it through the wheel arches.
The bolts were easy with a swivel head ratchet ring spanner. This is a must to do it through the wheel arch.
Wheel off, liner off, and undo the drop link as per factory manual.
DON'T take the front bolt all the way out.
The bracket will then swing away. And make it so much easier to line up the bracket when you have replace the bush.
The LH back bolt can be removed/replaced from underneath. The RH back bolt can be removed/replaced by squeezing your arm through the top. Provided you don't have arms like tree trunks. The oil filter is in the way to be able to replace the bolt from underneath. Or you could probably use long extension bar socket to do it from the top.

 

I used multiple extensions to reach from the top.

 

Thanks to all for the helpful info. Not sure how the others accessed the LH side strap/clip screws from the wheel arch. There may be a difference in the clearance from the wheel well between the 4.0L cars and the 4.2L, but the LH side access on my 2003 model is minimal - a small slot for maybe a finger-hold. The RH side is certainly easy to do once the air intake box is removed, but the oil cooler lines on the LH side of my car sit on and entirely cover/block access to the strap screws. I got them partially out of the way by inserting a variety of wood shims and then finally forcing the socket in between the two lines to take on the screws only at an angle (using an 18-inch extension from above, as noted). Left the front one in place a few turns, as I knew I would never get it back in otherwise (as others have noted). I did not unbolt the suspension links, because I needed to have the bar held in place while I used both hands underneath to force the new bushing in under the strap and on to the seating depression in the frame. I used a bottle jack to partially raise the bar so that it was centered in the opening formed by the strap and the depression. Left the RH side strap loose so that the bar moved easily and, with the car on jack stands and the wheels off, not much stress on the links. With the position of the cooler lines and no access to the screws from the wheel arch or underneath, I think this is only way to approach the job, given this layout.

 

Once again, you guys come through like flying aces! I have been procrastinating (my best trait) and gathering parts to do some work only '03MY. The A-arm bushings will be getting replaced and this would be a good time to do the sway bar bushes.
Your info and help is priceless. I hope to contribute useful info soon.