Sway bar bushings replacement
#1
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Just changed mine this is how I did it. 2001 XKR 53K miles
0/ NOTE this job is a lot easier if you jack up both sides and remove BOTH clamps first and then replace the bushing. By doing this the sway bar can easily be moved up/down to remove and fit new bushings.
1/ Jack up the front wheels and remove wheels.
2/ Remove plastic insert inside wheel arch 2 poppers along the bottom front, pull the centers out 1/4inch then lever the plastic outside rim out.
3/ Two poppers at top of wheel arch these have phillips screw heads. If they dont screw out pull them out a little and grip center with thin nose pliers then unscrew the screw.
4/ 3 plastic nuts at bottom edge and a torex screw, then pull insert out.
5/ Between the gap in the body and sub-frame you can see the bracket that holds the sway bar bushing in place. Get a 10mm ring wrench and undo the two nuts. You need to reach under the car from there you can get a finger to the nut to guide the wench as you undo these nuts from inside the wheel arch. I used a tube over the wench to get leverage to get it started and spray with WD 40 first.
6/ Take out the braket from inside the subframe and push the old bushings out i.e again from inside engine bay. You may need to use a bar between the sway bar and lower suspension arm to move the sway bar up and down to wiggle it out.
7/ Coat the inside of the new bushing with grease especially inside the grove.
8/ Push the new one in from inside the engine bay note the split in the bushing must face back ward towards the back of the car and if in correctly should line up with the subframe flat surface, this is really important. Note the grove in the subframe this should seat the grove in the bushing. I used a bar between the sway bar and lower suspension arm to move the sway bar up and down so I could wiggle it into place.
9/ Check it is seated correctly from inside the wheel arch and from above inside the engine bay.
10/ Replace the braket and nuts when you have the nuts nearly tightened down check the bushing split is this lined up and has not moved. From inside the wheel arch you can see this.
11/ Same for both sides replace your wheel lining and wheels take the car for a run. If u smell burning rubber after a run down the freeway then u didnt seat them correctly !!! I know I did this on the passanger side and had to redo LOL.
Should take 30-40 min a side if you go slow second time I did in 30min
I bought mine on eBay for $25 a pair
0/ NOTE this job is a lot easier if you jack up both sides and remove BOTH clamps first and then replace the bushing. By doing this the sway bar can easily be moved up/down to remove and fit new bushings.
1/ Jack up the front wheels and remove wheels.
2/ Remove plastic insert inside wheel arch 2 poppers along the bottom front, pull the centers out 1/4inch then lever the plastic outside rim out.
3/ Two poppers at top of wheel arch these have phillips screw heads. If they dont screw out pull them out a little and grip center with thin nose pliers then unscrew the screw.
4/ 3 plastic nuts at bottom edge and a torex screw, then pull insert out.
5/ Between the gap in the body and sub-frame you can see the bracket that holds the sway bar bushing in place. Get a 10mm ring wrench and undo the two nuts. You need to reach under the car from there you can get a finger to the nut to guide the wench as you undo these nuts from inside the wheel arch. I used a tube over the wench to get leverage to get it started and spray with WD 40 first.
6/ Take out the braket from inside the subframe and push the old bushings out i.e again from inside engine bay. You may need to use a bar between the sway bar and lower suspension arm to move the sway bar up and down to wiggle it out.
7/ Coat the inside of the new bushing with grease especially inside the grove.
8/ Push the new one in from inside the engine bay note the split in the bushing must face back ward towards the back of the car and if in correctly should line up with the subframe flat surface, this is really important. Note the grove in the subframe this should seat the grove in the bushing. I used a bar between the sway bar and lower suspension arm to move the sway bar up and down so I could wiggle it into place.
9/ Check it is seated correctly from inside the wheel arch and from above inside the engine bay.
10/ Replace the braket and nuts when you have the nuts nearly tightened down check the bushing split is this lined up and has not moved. From inside the wheel arch you can see this.
11/ Same for both sides replace your wheel lining and wheels take the car for a run. If u smell burning rubber after a run down the freeway then u didnt seat them correctly !!! I know I did this on the passanger side and had to redo LOL.
Should take 30-40 min a side if you go slow second time I did in 30min
I bought mine on eBay for $25 a pair
Last edited by LedZepplin; 12-01-2011 at 11:38 AM.
#2
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#5
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simon, did you know you could reach all four bolts from up top, from the engine bay? If you put the bonnet in fully open, service position, the only thing you need to do is lift the front end and work the clamp off, the old bushing out, the new bushing in, the clamp back on, and go back up top and put the bolts back in. I did it your way the first time before a jag tech came along and gave me the bad news. lol It is soo much easier their way. Just need a 3' extension, at least.
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#8
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simon, did you know you could reach all four bolts from up top, from the engine bay? If you put the bonnet in fully open, service position, the only thing you need to do is lift the front end and work the clamp off, the old bushing out, the new bushing in, the clamp back on, and go back up top and put the bolts back in. I did it your way the first time before a jag tech came along and gave me the bad news. lol It is soo much easier their way. Just need a 3' extension, at least.
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