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Managed to get around to removing the cam cover on my 2001 xkr to have a look at the tensioners. Bought the car last year and the p.o. couldn't give me any information on them one way or another. Other than that the car seemed ok. I have only done an inspection out of curiosity, nothing is amiss and I've not had any funny noises. As you can see from the photos they dont appear to have any problems. So which way forward? I'm tempted to leave them for now and just have the secondarys done in the future. Car has done 64k and all seems good. Full history upto 50k at dealers. After that its sketchy. Your thoughts please.
Like another poster mentioned. You have the failure prone plastic tensioners. Why would you want to leave them in knowing that one day they will bite you in the backside?
I should have explained a bit further. I have been quoted £300 to have the secondary’s done and £1080 to have the whole lot done. I was thinking leave them for now an£ spend my money on other maintenance like the brakes . Then certainly within the next 6 months either have the secondary’s done or depending on input the whole lot. I’ve no intention of not doing nothing just need to prioritise. A grand is a lot at the moment having been off work for 3 months and those tensioners have been ok for 20 years, another 6 months and low mileage? Just asking for some advice....
The body cracks starting at the 'U' cutout and the piston can leave the building and get trapped between the chain and a sprocket:
I do understand your logic: best to have all done at the same time so you're not doing part of the same job twice.
Problem with the plastic bodied is that they could be good for another 10000 miles +. Or they could fail the next time you turn the key. There is no way to be sure.
I would definitely prioritise this job over a brake refurb.
Change them NOW. You already have 75% of the job done already. Replace with the metal body tensioners. If money is an issue, you can easily DIY this yourself using the zip tie method. Driving with the plastic tensioners is like playing Russian roulette with a nearly fully loaded revolver. They will fail and it could happen at any moment.
The primary guides are a different affair. You absolutely do need the special tools for these. However, those do give a bit of warning when they are starting to fail. Replace these ASAP but they can wait more than the secondary tensioners.
The brakes, while important, are in this case not as urgent. Postpone the brake unless you are at minimum thickness and max pad wear.
The tensioners don’t fail based on mileage, but instead because of age. There have been reports of low mileage XK8s with bricked engine due to the tensioners.
Last edited by giandanielxk8; 05-22-2020 at 11:33 PM.
I should have explained a bit further. I have been quoted £300 to have the secondary’s done and £1080 to have the whole lot done. I was thinking leave them for now an£ spend my money on other maintenance like the brakes . Then certainly within the next 6 months either have the secondary’s done or depending on input the whole lot. I’ve no intention of not doing nothing just need to prioritise. A grand is a lot at the moment having been off work for 3 months and those tensioners have been ok for 20 years, another 6 months and low mileage? Just asking for some advice....
It makes no sense not to change the secondary tensioners right now while you already have it apart - you've already done the hard part of dismantling it, you are going to have to buy new cam cover gaskets and refit the covers, so it makes no sense not to spend another £100 and change the tensioners while you are doing it using the zip tie method (link below). If those upper tensioners look like they are in good condition and you don't have any odd noises coming from elsewhere, I would then leave the rest to a later date. Failure of the uppers is usually terminal, failure of the lowers usually isn't.
If you have the Cam covers off, the parts aren’t expensive and easily DIY-able using the zip tie method with basic tools. Forum members threads give excellent guidance on this.
I just marked the Cam to make sure it was exactly in the same place when reinstalled. Only trouble I had was the difference in size of the replacement secondary tensioner and the chain felt looser than with the original. Bit of a start up rattle but gone once oil pressure built up. Then all’s well forever more!
Not worth taking any risk on this one. At least the primary tensioners give a “bike chain slapping” warning noise.
After thinking about things I'm going to get a specialist to do the job. I cant find a definitive thread on the zip tie method and I dont fancy messing about with the camshaft. I may get the belts and water pump and thermostat done at the same time while hes at it. The kids will need to eat grass for a bit longer. Priorities lol.
Take a look at the other end of the tensioner where the piston is.
I've just had a look at the other side now I've got the cover fully off. Theres a crack down it. The tensioner is complete and the others further in the engine look good as far as I can see. Maybe just secondarys for now.
After thinking about things I'm going to get a specialist to do the job. I cant find a definitive thread on the zip tie method and I dont fancy messing about with the camshaft. I may get the belts and water pump and thermostat done at the same time while hes at it. The kids will need to eat grass for a bit longer. Priorities lol.
Dibbit gave you the link a few posts ago. Here it is again:
Just use a zip tie to tie the chain to the sprocket at two or three locations. Then you can unbolt the tensioner and swap them out. The new tensioner uses shorter bolts. Don’t forget to buy those with the tensioner.
Why take it to a specialist when it will only take you 10 more minutes to change the tensioners? I did this job when I was 17 years old in college who barely knew how to turn a wrench. I’m sure you can do this.
Thanks for repeating the link I missed it. I am thinking of having ago myself. The main concern is replacing the cam correctly. Assuming you have the orientation correct will it just seat itself? Does it have to be in the dead exact spot it came out of? This is my worry.
With the last question you asked, I'm not sure you should try to do this job! My advice is to have the Jag hauled to someone that knows how to do the job....get it done right and forget about it!
This problem occurred years ago to my 1998 XK Coupe! All I did was start the Engine and all Hell broke lose. Cost me several Valves and a New Piston...are (2)! This is what you are looking at...…..so take the advice of almost everyone on the Forum that knows anything about the XK8 or XKR...….Do it NOW!!! It has been awhile for me but I'll never forget the feeling and the writing of the BIG check!
Well!! On one hand it’s easy on the other not?? When you watch the you tube clips the cams in and out and it’s not that clear. Surely they must have a method to get it back in spot on. One guy shows a lobe in a certain orientation, but what if it’s one degree off?
05-22-2020, 11:36 AM
Tensioners, good news or bad?
